you have to remove the female bolts that have the "evil" markings and torque specs on it. just carefully knock them out from the back side/shock cage area.
it took some wigglin to get the swingarm away from the frame, but it does come off
2009 EVIL Revolt: T-minus 10... 9... 8...
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
it took some wigglin to get the swingarm away from the frame, but it does come off
finally got it out. went to a bike shop for some extra hands. the paper portions of one of my bushings is pretty worn and I have a single seized bolt on the drivers side upper shock mount link. So as it sits the shock bushing is stuck to the delta link. it aint coming free. now i just gotta press the bearings out. The smaller non drive side bearing isnt totally smooth and doesnt rotate smooth. But i'll get some new bearing for it and maybe the large main pivot if needed.
The only thing holding it back is the drive side shock mount bushing having the bolt from the delta link frozen into it.
...and for the evil haters, its not a problem I beat the piss out of this bike all year and havent pulled it apart yet so given this is its initial rebuild im not worried one bit.
The only thing holding it back is the drive side shock mount bushing having the bolt from the delta link frozen into it.
...and for the evil haters, its not a problem I beat the piss out of this bike all year and havent pulled it apart yet so given this is its initial rebuild im not worried one bit.
Is it the bolt the goes into the flip chip or the bolt above that one?
when i took the rocker link off, the long bolt was a little stuck in there, but a few taps with the rubber mallet with the bolt still in there solved that. the link bearings are totally shot too...im glad i didnt have this bike last year when the rain at races was 10x worse than this year.
what are you pressing the bearings out with?
To pres the bearings out i'll probably have a shop with the proper tools do it or buy a bearing removal tool. I'd rather not mess around there.
My bolts that seized is the upper large link bolt that passes from the driver side into the upper shock bushing. I was able to remove the non-driver side allen bolt and get the shock off, but the drive side bolts seems to have either complete seized or been cross threaded into the shock bushing and it wont move at all.
My bolts that seized is the upper large link bolt that passes from the driver side into the upper shock bushing. I was able to remove the non-driver side allen bolt and get the shock off, but the drive side bolts seems to have either complete seized or been cross threaded into the shock bushing and it wont move at all.
have you tried to keep the non-drive side bolt screwed into the other bolt and try to tap it out?
maybe im not visualizing it, but can you take a pic? a lot of my bolts were stuck too, but i was able to get them out and regrease em all
where have you found a bearing removal tool too?
Last edited:
QBP has several bearing tool kits for sale. $60 up to $180 on the dealer side of pricing. But considering how little i'll use them it's probably best to have a shop do it.
This is the guy here that's seized. I tried screwing the bolt into the other side and unscrewing it. Im fairly certain the threads are shot, no fault of evils as I've had the shock in/out a few times and could possibly have cross threaded it. Although I dont really remember any point tightening it where tension went through the roof like cross threading it does but...
The only other option is putting the shock bushing in a vise and cranking down on it and trying to turn the bolt out of it. Since it's drive side with was unscrews it? Didnt some of the early bikes say counterclockwise to tighten and it was opposite or something?
I got a email back from Gabe, he's on vacation and will be back in the office Monday.
This is the guy here that's seized. I tried screwing the bolt into the other side and unscrewing it. Im fairly certain the threads are shot, no fault of evils as I've had the shock in/out a few times and could possibly have cross threaded it. Although I dont really remember any point tightening it where tension went through the roof like cross threading it does but...
The only other option is putting the shock bushing in a vise and cranking down on it and trying to turn the bolt out of it. Since it's drive side with was unscrews it? Didnt some of the early bikes say counterclockwise to tighten and it was opposite or something?
I got a email back from Gabe, he's on vacation and will be back in the office Monday.
some of the earlier frames like my white one and my current black one have mismarked pivot markings...those are the ones reversed, not the link engravings.QBP has several bearing tool kits for sale. $60 up to $180 on the dealer side of pricing. But considering how little i'll use them it's probably best to have a shop do it.
This is the guy here that's seized. I tried screwing the bolt into the other side and unscrewing it. Im fairly certain the threads are shot, no fault of evils as I've had the shock in/out a few times and could possibly have cross threaded it. Although I dont really remember any point tightening it where tension went through the roof like cross threading it does but...
The only other option is putting the shock bushing in a vise and cranking down on it and trying to turn the bolt out of it. Since it's drive side with was unscrews it? Didnt some of the early bikes say counterclockwise to tighten and it was opposite or something?
you can try putting it in a vice like you said. the bolt is probably shot, so putting in the vice and marring it up isnt that big of a deal. try some penetrating lube in there and let it soak for a bit before you try.
that bolt doesnt screw into anything. its the "female" bolt that goes with the other side's bolt. i had issues with a creak coming fromm the bike and i greeased up those bolts you are having issues with and it stopped...plus it was easier to take the bolts out. i did notice some rust on that bolt you are having trouble with, but i lightly sanded it away and regreased it.
good luck
Im wondering if were talking about the same thing. On the link, upper silver pin is the upper shock mount bushing. from the non-drive side a silver allen head screw threads through the opposite large delta link and into the shock bushing. On the drive side is a allen screw that does the same into the shock bushing. Which way does that one turn loose? Drive side.
i think were talking about the same thing.
How it looks right now.
i think were talking about the same thing.
How it looks right now.
Last edited:
Back on the issue I mentioned about my shock (Fox RC4-not working properly). I torn the rear link apart and found that the teflon bushings had too much friction with the bolts (and this after a season of riding, not after the break in period). I lubed them with a bit of slick grease and the things vived up again. Apparently that's the problem but lubing the bushings doesn't seem like a good idea to me... Any other suggestions to prevent friction?
What problems were you having with your RC4 - specifically?
The Norglide teflon bushings when broken in should transfer a teflon lubricant to the axle... to be on the safe side I would use a teflon lubricant or a teflon based grease (Finish Line makes one).
To reduce friction, try taking apart the linkage, cleaning it, lubing it with some teflon grease and then putting it all back together with the proper torque values. If there is still a problem - let me know and I'll get in touch with the guys at EVIL.
By the way - I finally put up a "Tech and Tuning" thread like I did when I used to help out Iron Horse a few years back:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225953
...for all your tech. and tuning needs.
Last edited:
tool much friction sounds like a over-torquing issue. with all the hours i have on my bike, i didnt notice really any friction coming from the bushings. the bearings are shot, particularly the link bearings, but that was from the many days of riding mud and using the use where i probably shouldnt have.
im still waiting for Gabe to call me so i can get my bushings and bearings...i guess i wont be riding this weekend.
I'm getting a revolt for 2010 but I'm really undecided about the size. I'm almost 6'1 and I'm looking at either a medium or large with a 40mm stem. I currently ride a Norco Atomik (M/L) If anyones around 6'1 please give your advice, thanks.
im about 1/2" taller and ride a large and really like the sizing. feels perfect from coming off my L Sunday
is it really that hard to make a frame that doesn't need a "tuning thread" ?
It's easy, and Evil did it. It's just really hard to make a forum that doesn't need a tuning thread about everything.
Besides, George, this is Ridemonkey where we have 3 page threads on what maxxis tire combo is the best and how tall the WC riders are.
^^^^^ I stand corrected^^^^^^
sometimes I just can't stop myself, kinda like listening to all the drunks at a bar when you're the only sober one,
wait, how would I know about that?
OK now back to "tuning"
sometimes I just can't stop myself, kinda like listening to all the drunks at a bar when you're the only sober one,
wait, how would I know about that?
OK now back to "tuning"
i guess we could make a page about tuning up our cups of espresso.
i like mine extra sweet
This is mainly to blackohio and IH8Rice...
I have been watching this bike very closely because it really seems like it could be a next ride. However, I am getting the impression that there is alot of work involved after only 1 season of riding. And from what you guys have said, alot of headaches in terms of waiting for parts too. I in no way insinuating anything about EVIL as a company... I think they do really nice work and have excellent CS; I am more just a curious onlooker. It seems like even with other bikes that have several pivots, you just pop a link off, press in a couple new generic bearings from Enduro and you are back on your bike. And those bearings would often last two maybe three seasons. I know that work like this wouldn't affect anyone who is totally stoked on the bike, but doesn't this seem like a lot more work than bikes past?
Thanks in advance.
I have been watching this bike very closely because it really seems like it could be a next ride. However, I am getting the impression that there is alot of work involved after only 1 season of riding. And from what you guys have said, alot of headaches in terms of waiting for parts too. I in no way insinuating anything about EVIL as a company... I think they do really nice work and have excellent CS; I am more just a curious onlooker. It seems like even with other bikes that have several pivots, you just pop a link off, press in a couple new generic bearings from Enduro and you are back on your bike. And those bearings would often last two maybe three seasons. I know that work like this wouldn't affect anyone who is totally stoked on the bike, but doesn't this seem like a lot more work than bikes past?
Thanks in advance.
i wouldnt say it was a headache waiting for parts. i know Gabe @ Evil was on vacation last week, so i wasnt expecting to get my bearings/bushings last week. im 100% positive ill get sorted out like always this week. when ive needed other things from them, it was taken care of much faster than i ever expected.
there isnt a lot of work that is needed. i do take my bikes apart multiple times a year to make sure everything is still working/not cracked/clean, so taking the links off and inspecting them wasnt a big issue.
i would be interested to see if they move away from the bushings in a later generation frame. they do wear very fast, no question about that....but with all the mud we've had this year, i would think that would be expected. i think bearings might maybe over complicate the design, but they should indeed last longer than the teflon bushings that are in there. any dirt that gets packed in the bushing area, will make them wear faster
like i mentioned earlier, im glad i didnt have this frame last year when it rained at nearly EVERY race.
the link bearings that went, are Enduro Max bearings, which are one of their nicer grade bearings....but using a hose to wash the bike for 4 straight months, will kill any bearing.
after i get the replacement stock bearings from Evil, ill eventually order some ABEC 5 Enduro bearings, although i dont think they are sealed any better.
there isnt a lot of work that is needed. i do take my bikes apart multiple times a year to make sure everything is still working/not cracked/clean, so taking the links off and inspecting them wasnt a big issue.
i would be interested to see if they move away from the bushings in a later generation frame. they do wear very fast, no question about that....but with all the mud we've had this year, i would think that would be expected. i think bearings might maybe over complicate the design, but they should indeed last longer than the teflon bushings that are in there. any dirt that gets packed in the bushing area, will make them wear faster
like i mentioned earlier, im glad i didnt have this frame last year when it rained at nearly EVERY race.
the link bearings that went, are Enduro Max bearings, which are one of their nicer grade bearings....but using a hose to wash the bike for 4 straight months, will kill any bearing.
after i get the replacement stock bearings from Evil, ill eventually order some ABEC 5 Enduro bearings, although i dont think they are sealed any better.
Last edited:
Just ordered mine!
Q: I have a pair of Saint brakes which comes with 900mm/1600mm hoses, will it be enough? (frame size is medium)
Q: I have a pair of Saint brakes which comes with 900mm/1600mm hoses, will it be enough? (frame size is medium)
they are probably going to be too long if anything.
Also, I think of it in terms of this. This bike is a full-on WC Race bike. No question about that. So if after a season of HARD use I have to replace some parts. no biggie. and to be honest, my problem stemmed from me probably over-torquing the upper suspension link-pin when i swapped the shock out and possibly destroying threads inside the link pin. But, I had this bike totally tore down in less than 30 minutes. Everything off it and ready to send out. The suspension is actually super easy to work with, getting stuff off is a no brainer and very straight forward when your gorilla arms dont damage things.
There hasnt been a waiting for parts issue. I told Gabe I was in no rush to get stuff as the bikes getting torn down and powdercoated over winter anyhow.
I read a bit on the crank offset/chainline subject and i would like to know what is the best and most affordable crankset for the Revolt?
I'm planning to use a G2 or LG1 chainguide.
Looked at the Hussefelt 2.2, any thoughts on it? thanks
I'm planning to use a G2 or LG1 chainguide.
Looked at the Hussefelt 2.2, any thoughts on it? thanks
any 83mm crank will work fine.
im using mine with G2 and it took a few trial and errors to get the spacing right, but i have no issues now
im using mine with G2 and it took a few trial and errors to get the spacing right, but i have no issues now
The hussefelt arms tend to wallow at the splines. They don't have tight enough tolerances, so the contact between the spindle and the crankarms is actually quite minimal. The result is a crankarm that continually works itself loose, and when you ride it loose (usually unknowingly) you accelerate the wear on the splines very significantly.
I'd bet you could get a pair of older saint cranks on Ebay real cheap.
Anyone have the reach and stack for the XL Revolt?
Hi guys,
I would like to change my head set on my revolt, actually I've an accros but it's a bit too "high", I mean I have to put the large upper crown on my fork, then the handlebar is higher etc... I hope you understand what I'm talking about! Sorry for mistakes...
I saw on your bikes that most of you have an integrated head set... which ones did you choose? e13? FSA? (in order to put the small crown on the fork)
Thanks for your help!
I would like to change my head set on my revolt, actually I've an accros but it's a bit too "high", I mean I have to put the large upper crown on my fork, then the handlebar is higher etc... I hope you understand what I'm talking about! Sorry for mistakes...
I saw on your bikes that most of you have an integrated head set... which ones did you choose? e13? FSA? (in order to put the small crown on the fork)
Thanks for your help!
Last edited:
I run a Cane Creek Double XC flush. Works good for me.
Been SUPER busy myself, but I'll ask Gabe tomorrow and then post it in the EVIL Tech. and Tuning Thread.
can you also get a hold of Gabe and ask what font they use for the graphics? im having a certain someone make custom graphics for the frame and he needs the font print
Ok, could we maybe start that countdown again because I ordered my Revolt and am pulling my hair atm waiting for my shinny new toy 
Any idea if the next batch is going to cover offshore demands or internal only because I wouldn't wanna get my bike in june or worse
Btw, whats the total rider weight limit for the revolt?
Any idea if the next batch is going to cover offshore demands or internal only because I wouldn't wanna get my bike in june or worse
Btw, whats the total rider weight limit for the revolt?
i was 225lbs, how much do you weigh?Btw, whats the total rider weight limit for the revolt?
I second that, being a northern Euro myself. Ordered a Revolt in December with a promise of a late Feb/early March delivery, which has been pushed forward a couple of times. Know for a fact that the Evil guys been totally blown away by the huge demand for Revolts. But still, don't wanna wait longer than April to get my dirty hands on a frame.Ok, could we maybe start that countdown again because I ordered my Revolt and am pulling my hair atm waiting for my shinny new toy
Any idea if the next batch is going to cover offshore demands or internal only because I wouldn't wanna get my bike in june or worse
S.K.C.?
Victor and Glisseur -
Gabe and the EVIL crew are in Taiwan right now taking care of business so I'll shoot an email to Gabe to see what the projected delivery schedules are. As soon as I hear back from him I'll post here to let you know.
Gabe and the EVIL crew are in Taiwan right now taking care of business so I'll shoot an email to Gabe to see what the projected delivery schedules are. As soon as I hear back from him I'll post here to let you know.
Thanks a bunch S.K.C
IH8Rice - i'm at 253 with gear and everything, working hard on lowering that value
IH8Rice - i'm at 253 with gear and everything, working hard on lowering that value
you should be fine at 253. i had a 500# spring on it when i was wee bit heavier and it still rode great w/ the right amount of sag for my liking