2010 boxxer wc...I give up

bullcrew · Sep 27, 2010

SCARY said:
-I weigh 185 and any advice from people who is smart is good to me.
(Except the Avalanche Evangelists....they scare me).....(Avalangelists?)

Yeah I hate the answer that fixes things I still grease my brakes for squealing it stops the squealing so I obviousley fixed it!

There was inherent issues and thats part of the reason the 2011s changed a bit.

freeridefool · Sep 28, 2010

I solved the 2010 boxxer wc problem on my friends bike by going back to my demo rocking a 40.

In all honest though, he weighs the same and I couldnt get it set up for him. It still just doesnt feel right. I run alot of the same with alot of spring on my 40 to keep it up in its travel. And my biggest complaint about the wc was that to get it to track I have to deal with dive, or it bounces and doesnt dive.

Steve M · Sep 28, 2010

Get a coil leg; the air spring rate sucks, it's regressive in the early travel hence why you have low sag, lots of blow-through in the mid-stroke and then the ramp-up at the end instead of just a smooth positive ramp up throughout the stroke. I have a WC too and once I have the means, goodbye air spring.

norbar · Sep 28, 2010

Socket said:
Get a coil leg; the air spring rate sucks, it's regressive in the early travel hence why you have low sag, lots of blow-through in the mid-stroke and then the ramp-up at the end instead of just a smooth positive ramp up throughout the stroke. I have a WC too and once I have the means, goodbye air spring.

Ridding a zocchi for 3 years before the WC must have spoiled me. I dont really feel it that much. The only place when my boxx is a bit annoying is when I hit small chattery stuff like really small brake bumps. Im not sure if that is because Im lighter but I ride it closer to 30% sag and it ramps up nicely at the end.

Though I have to say Im thinking about the avy, though the winter is comming so I dont want to spend cash anymore on my bike

Jeremy R · Sep 28, 2010

Socket said:
Get a coil leg; the air spring rate sucks, it's regressive in the early travel hence why you have low sag, lots of blow-through in the mid-stroke and then the ramp-up at the end instead of just a smooth positive ramp up throughout the stroke. I have a WC too and once I have the means, goodbye air spring.

I got a 2010 team, bought in late July of this year, so it was a late model run.
Honestly, I can't fault anything about it. It just works.
Tracks the ground so well, I could honestly tell a difference riding slick roots
and mud. Which was helpful considering every race this year has been mud.

Sandwich · Sep 28, 2010

I thought mine was great until it tried to explode my hands and forearms at highland when the stupid bumper was getting locked up and I was only getting like 6" of travel...

Try cutting your drop stop bumper in half, and then change the oil. That has worked very well for me. I get almost full travel with just a tiny bit left when I get to the bottom, but the fork also doesn't bottom noticeably. It's rather linear, but full travel is a godsend. fresh oil in the bottom seemed to help quite a bit too.

Otherwise, keep clicking till you like it. I'm not sure my rebound adjusters do anything anymore but the work was working pretty darn well during my last few runs...I'd like to continue to pursue better performance though...

bizutch · Sep 28, 2010

Hack!

stumpjump · Sep 28, 2010

WC's have always required a ton of maintenance to keep decent. I change the oil on my WC every month or two just to keep things in working order. Seems to have worked for me.

FlyinPolack · Sep 28, 2010

(Avalangelists?)

That has a nice ring to it. Craig should make some T-shirts!

IH8Rice · Sep 28, 2010

stumpjump said:
WC's have always required a ton of maintenance to keep decent. I change the oil on my WC every month or two just to keep things in working order. Seems to have worked for me.

its a race fork! you are suppose to do that! :rolleyes:

stumpjump · Sep 28, 2010

IH8Rice said:
its a race fork! you are suppose to do that!

LOOnatic · Sep 28, 2010

IH8Rice said:
its a race fork! you are suppose to do that!

For the record a garage mechanic numbskull like me can do a complete tear down, lube seals and bushings and oil it up in less than 30 minutes.
And thats with having a few beers :rofl:

I also think if you run the air side drop stop on any setting besides fully backed out then the fork will ride harsh.
Sometimes when I remove and reinstall the air side fork cap, it turns the drop stop "in" just by threading the cap into the stantion . Unless you take the time to back it out you may think you have it adjusted full open(full volume) but in fact it is not. IMO the air drop stop is sensitive to adjustment and to get it plush , fully backed out is the way to go.
Food for thought.

snowskilz · Sep 28, 2010

I had a wc last year and could not get it to feel right. Tried all types of setting etc and just felt harsh. Moved down to a team and it is awesome. 2 of my buddies love their wc's, 2 of us dont. Its all how you ride and if it doesnt feel right sell it, buy a team and be happy

bobsten · Sep 28, 2010

larry, just get a manitou. then you'll at least have an excuse

LOOnatic · Sep 28, 2010

SCARY said:
I'd love to.I doubt I can get one at cost though.And ,at cost would prolly still be redonkulous.

I guess I'll start a relube schedule more often.It seems I don't do that enough compared to you guys.

A sure fire way to make a boxxer feel like doo-doo is to let the 15w lube oil in the lowers go dry. It's only is 10ml in the bottom of each lower and takes literally 5 minutes to squirt that in with a syringue.
The air side takes 5ml of 15w under the topcap.
Do this and your golden

Sandwich · Sep 28, 2010

I thought the 2010 was a lot more...I think the manual calls for like 40ml springside (on the team) and 10ml or 15ml drive side....or am i nutso?

RedOne · Sep 28, 2010

Sandwich said:
I thought the 2010 was a lot more...I think the manual calls for like 40ml springside (on the team) and 10ml or 15ml drive side....or am i nutso?

Right, on the Team, but 10ml on the Worldcup, both sides.

LOOnatic · Sep 29, 2010

Sandwich said:
I thought the 2010 was a lot more...I think the manual calls for like 40ml springside (on the team) and 10ml or 15ml drive side....or am i nutso?

Your right, the 40ml is correct for the 2010 Race and Team and 10ml is correct for both sides on the w/c lowers.

Sandwich · Sep 29, 2010

thanks...40ml certainly didn't come out and I was worried. fork works much better now though!

miuan · Sep 30, 2010

Much of the spring side oil resides on spring grease. That's why you never get as much out as you dropped in before. That being said, RS are well known for putting too little oil in the lowers. I poured maybe 1-2ml out of mine after riding it for a couple races. Should have opened it right away, and will also strip my 2010 Lyrik coil soon.

samsnatch13 · Sep 30, 2010

The best thing to do is, upgrade the seals to Enduro seals and everything is solved. I ride the Teams and a friend of mine the WC's and since we've added the Enduro seals it's like riding a complete new bike/fork. Then the Boxxer becomes really plushy and reactive.

flyboy · Sep 30, 2010

I have a 951 too and I got mine to ride after a few minor adjustments:

- Back the bottom out all the way
- back out both compressions
- run 30% sag
- adjust rebound to your liking, and have the low speed rebound two clicks higher than the high speed.

it will sing.

FlyinPolack · Sep 30, 2010

samsnatch13 said:
The best thing to do is, upgrade the seals to Enduro seals and everything is solved. I ride the Teams and a friend of mine the WC's and since we've added the Enduro seals it's like riding a complete new bike/fork. Then the Boxxer becomes really plushy and reactive.

Un-leaky, & not squirty is about all that you will achieve with new seals..

bullcrew · Oct 1, 2010

SCARY said:
No compression.No bottom.+ alot of sag..........This sounds like the opposite of what I want.

Actually it sounds like an old lady, the opposite of what most guys want! :thumb:

Steve M · Oct 1, 2010

SCARY said:
Is this true? No real advantage over stock?

Pretty much. Enduro dust seals aren't much chop either IMO, they use a really hard plastic lip which tends to be pretty sticky compared to the softer rubber used in almost all other seals. If you combined an Enduro oil seal with a Boxxer dust seal you might get somewhere, but at best really all you'd do is hold the oil in a bit longer (which is still a good thing cos the stock Boxxer seals are pretty shoddy).

Tomasis · Oct 1, 2010

bullcrew said:
Actually it sounds like an old lady, the opposite of what most guys want!

haha.. marzocchi is da chic

samsnatch13 · Oct 1, 2010

SCARY said:
Is this true? No real advantage over stock?

It's real advantage over the stock ones! We've also used them with the Totem for more then 2 years and it's like 300% better then the stock seals. And they only cost $30,- so it's worth trying. :thumb:

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id207.html

LOOnatic · Oct 1, 2010

SCARY said:
No compression.No bottom.+ alot of sag..........This sounds like the opposite of what I want.

Everyone always thinks you have to turn dials.
If you have never tried riding the fork wide open(dials backed all the way out) then you are missing something as a starting point.
The fork could be valved with too much compression as a stock setting for example and wide open could be the way to go .....

bizutch · Oct 1, 2010

Larry, if it's any consolation, I wasn't a fan of riding the World Cup either. I could feel little roots and things and could sense the damper much more than any oil bath forks I've ridden. I have an older Boxxer Team right now that is just retardly good and before that a DH40 (still my all time fave fork). Maybe sell the World Cup for what it would take you to pick up a new Team. I saw one for sale for less than 800 yesterday.

troy · Oct 1, 2010

samsnatch13 said:
It's real advantage over the stock ones! We've also used them with the Totem for more then 2 years and it's like 300% better then the stock seals. And they only cost $30,- so it's worth trying.

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id207.html

No offence, but are You related somehow to enduroseals company? Had a chance to use enduro wiper seals on my fork and it's the biggest f****n crap i have ever seen. Ridiculus amount of stiction. After I had installed them on my fork it absolutely stopped moving(they were crazy tight). Btw those enduro seals were made for newer WB models with 32mm stanchions, as they had no seals for older models(mine was old DH2 with 31.75mm stanchions!!!). After deinstalation they deformed so much, that they were not sealing at all when i tried to install them again ...

Commencal-guy · Oct 1, 2010

I converted my Team to a World Cup. At first it felt like absolute ****. The fork was sticky as hell and progressively got stiffer / slower as the days past. I tore the fork apart again for a full rebuild. I noticed the stupid foam ring that sits on the floating air piston on the solo air would bypass the O-rings and cause major stiction. I removed it and now the fork feels 100X's better.

brian field · Oct 1, 2010

IS there any hope that 2011 WC will be any better?

bobsten · Oct 1, 2010

I'm right here dude. Sell that ****!

2010 boxxer wc...I give up

Not long enough

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