Didn't know that was possible :S I don't think the firmer spring will have much of an impact on this, mine still feels nice and gripy over rough trail.This will change. You will sit further up in travel.
2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
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Didn't know that was possible :S I don't think the firmer spring will have much of an impact on this, mine still feels nice and gripy over rough trail.really happy with my 888 evo so far, but looking for one last tweek, if anyone can help.
i like a super sensitive fork in the first third, support in the second third, and really progressive in the last third.
right now, the fork is setup nearly this way, i just want a little more support in the middle. any suggestions?
i am 6'2'', 200lbs, stock ti spring. compression is nearly open, 7.5wt fork oil, 250ml in right leg to get a bit mroe progression.
i don't feel that i want heavier oil in the fork as i feel that will firm the initial stroke. my thought here is to adjust the stack and add a 2 stage valve.
any feedback from the peanut gallery?
i like a super sensitive fork in the first third, support in the second third, and really progressive in the last third.
right now, the fork is setup nearly this way, i just want a little more support in the middle. any suggestions?
i am 6'2'', 200lbs, stock ti spring. compression is nearly open, 7.5wt fork oil, 250ml in right leg to get a bit mroe progression.
i don't feel that i want heavier oil in the fork as i feel that will firm the initial stroke. my thought here is to adjust the stack and add a 2 stage valve.
any feedback from the peanut gallery?
That seems like a strange oil level but is yours the non ti? I remembered Marz telling me 320 in the left leg and 100+/-20 in the right leg for the ti version.
I'm 6'1" and 200 lbs, I use the stiff spring and it's works tuned as well. Occasionally I'll bottom out when I screw up or huck my meat to flat. I run 4 of the 9 clicks on my compression, just a few clicks on preload and about 1/4 of the way in on the air chamber.
I used to run the air chamber all the way out because I like a linear feel but I found with it turned in a bit I don't bottom out as often.
I'm 6'1" and 200 lbs, I use the stiff spring and it's works tuned as well. Occasionally I'll bottom out when I screw up or huck my meat to flat. I run 4 of the 9 clicks on my compression, just a few clicks on preload and about 1/4 of the way in on the air chamber.
I used to run the air chamber all the way out because I like a linear feel but I found with it turned in a bit I don't bottom out as often.
IH8Rice: do you know the exact differences between the stock and works valving? Reason i'm asking is i wanna start dabbling with the shim stack, and i'm guessing the works valving is only to do with the shims? Clue me up if I'm off base pls.
yeah, more oil in the right leg makes the fork more progressive, i maybe bottom once a day now, rather than 2-3 times a run with the same settings and 100ml in that leg. but the bottom occurs on big g-outs, not say, overshooting a 20 foot double or something.
The Works tune includes shim stack customization but also includes custom oil levels, oil additive and hand honed bushings.
Gave my forks a good thrashing ove the weekend at stromlo. If anyone is thinking of going from the stock spring to the firm I would definetly recommend it. I'm about 87kg and still running the stock whim stack and I don't think you could make a fork feel any better if you tried.
The biggest difference was in the rockgarden which im sure most people have seen. My line had quite q few holes in it and was pretty rough. The fork helped massively in keeping me out of the holes while still feeling buttery smooth. I even ended up getting my first ever win too
The biggest difference was in the rockgarden which im sure most people have seen. My line had quite q few holes in it and was pretty rough. The fork helped massively in keeping me out of the holes while still feeling buttery smooth. I even ended up getting my first ever win too
hahaha.
thanks Ithnu. Fat chance I can get that done here in the boondocks.
Couple of daft questions.
Ive serviced my forks, replaced the seals etc and come to reassemble.
Question 1 - can I re fill the damper side with oil from the top of the fork? Will the oil be able to get past the volume adjust plunger - this forms a seal around the inside of the stanchion doesnt it, so surely not...?
Question 2 - when i come to install the damper side top cap, the volume adjust plunger appears to have to be all the way down (max thread exposed) in order to have enough of the rod exposed through the cap to be able to engage the top allen bolt through the adjuster. is this right?
people have talked about compressing the fork slightly before assembling to reduce the air gap for reduced progressiveness. I cant see how this would work. I have the top cap off now but the plunger is already sealed against the inside of the stanchion, right? How would compressing the fork make a difference?
Ive serviced my forks, replaced the seals etc and come to reassemble.
Question 1 - can I re fill the damper side with oil from the top of the fork? Will the oil be able to get past the volume adjust plunger - this forms a seal around the inside of the stanchion doesnt it, so surely not...?
Question 2 - when i come to install the damper side top cap, the volume adjust plunger appears to have to be all the way down (max thread exposed) in order to have enough of the rod exposed through the cap to be able to engage the top allen bolt through the adjuster. is this right?
people have talked about compressing the fork slightly before assembling to reduce the air gap for reduced progressiveness. I cant see how this would work. I have the top cap off now but the plunger is already sealed against the inside of the stanchion, right? How would compressing the fork make a difference?
Thanks mate. My firm Ti coils are in the mail and i cant wait now to get them. I ran into few issues here in Bromont where i felt the fork was not giving its max potential. Even though i tuned it to my max, i still feel a stiffer coil would help my beauty stand up in rock gardensGave my forks a good thrashing ove the weekend at stromlo. If anyone is thinking of going from the stock spring to the firm I would definetly recommend it. I'm about 87kg and still running the stock whim stack and I don't think you could make a fork feel any better if you tried.
The biggest difference was in the rockgarden which im sure most people have seen. My line had quite q few holes in it and was pretty rough. The fork helped massively in keeping me out of the holes while still feeling buttery smooth. I even ended up getting my first ever win too
Bromont is all about that and i dont want to be mid travel all the way when i can get some more back for the next hit !Cant wait
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Thanks mate. My firm Ti coils are in the mail and i cant wait now to get them. I ran into few issues here in Bromont where i felt the fork was not giving its max potential. Even though i tuned it to my max, i still feel a stiffer coil would help my beauty stand up in rock gardens
Cant wait
No worries. I will be surprised if you are disappointed, they should feel great.
Searched through this post and didn't see anything regarding contrasts between the 2009 damper and 2010/11 damper. Is the user shim-able damper that much better than the sealed damper out of the box?
I was getting too much compression spike (regardless of settings) and excessively slow rebound, even with the adjuster all the way out on my 2009.
I'm not likely to re-shim a damper, and the full Avy setup is a bit steep.
I was getting too much compression spike (regardless of settings) and excessively slow rebound, even with the adjuster all the way out on my 2009.
I'm not likely to re-shim a damper, and the full Avy setup is a bit steep.
The Evo damper is much better, it's not like the old damper was shimmed and the only change is the ability to change the shims. The previous damper used a simple spring-loaded valve which didn't always have enough support and could blow through the travel quite easily. The new shimmed valve keeps the fork up in its travel more but if you want to it will still open up on the bigger hits.
Although the problems you had with your 09 sound nothing like what RC3 forks usually preform like. Only the last 6 or so clicks can be described as "slow" and fully open should be pogo-stick fast. It sounds like someone has filled your fork with treacle for damping fluid. Is it possible the oil has been changed and whoever did it used something ridiculously thick? Either way there is definitely something wrong for it to be behaving like that
Although the problems you had with your 09 sound nothing like what RC3 forks usually preform like. Only the last 6 or so clicks can be described as "slow" and fully open should be pogo-stick fast. It sounds like someone has filled your fork with treacle for damping fluid. Is it possible the oil has been changed and whoever did it used something ridiculously thick? Either way there is definitely something wrong for it to be behaving like that
Thanks for the info., JohnnyC. I bought my 2009 RC3 brand new, and had all of the typical 2009 RC3 problems. I've had it in twice now, with minimal ride time to elicit the problems (excessive bushing play, oil leaks at the bottom of the fork legs). It looks like I'll have to seriously consider a new Evo cartridge though, thanks again.
Im ~108kg and on an X Heavy - its very nice! stock would bottom in the living room.. Its really nice, but Im sure a damper tweak could make it a little nicer.Gave my forks a good thrashing ove the weekend at stromlo. If anyone is thinking of going from the stock spring to the firm I would definetly recommend it. I'm about 87kg and still running the stock whim stack and I don't think you could make a fork feel any better if you tried.
The biggest difference was in the rockgarden which im sure most people have seen. My line had quite q few holes in it and was pretty rough. The fork helped massively in keeping me out of the holes while still feeling buttery smooth. I even ended up getting my first ever win too
If the volume adjuster o-ring is in the leg oil will not get by. You must pull up on the rod and compress the fork enough that the o-ring is above the leg and you can pour oil in below it. If your fork is too progressive you can remove this o-ring to maximize air volume and simplify burping and oil changes.
The oil would sit above the plunger - it seals air, it will def stop the oil from getting by.
So do steel coils fit in the TI version?
2011 steel springs should fit, as the 2011 rc3 evo uses now the same stanchion size.
Cheers, much appreciated. Only thing is, when you compress the forks the rod goes down with the stanchion. Ive tried to hold on to it so it stays up but it seems fairly solid. Any suggestions?
Back off the rebound adjuster? You should be able to hold the top cap and compress the fork/pull the damper up.
You can flex it sideways slightly and hold it so it rests on the edge of the stanchion and that works fine. Or else if you have the damper out, there is a small o-ring on the shaft and I slide that all the way to the bottom to keep the shaft extended (just don't cycle it once its in!) before you slide the stanchion up.
Doing it this way also creates a slight "negative" pressure in the chamber, ie if you take the fork out of the crowns the damper side will compress slightly. This is because the stanchions displace oil in the lowers, so as well as the compensator moving upwards when you extend the stanchion, the oil level itself drops slightly too.
I always assemble the fork with the volume adjuster all the way out but if you want even less air in there you could put it in the middle as you slide the stanchion back up
Cheers guys. I guess I just need to get the rod moving inside the stanchion.
Ill be winding the volume adjust right to the top before assembling. I want maximum air in there. Im right on the boundary of the softest and stock spring. Just dropped the softest spring in so I imagine Ill need that bit of air to hold the fork up in the travel.
Ill be winding the volume adjust right to the top before assembling. I want maximum air in there. Im right on the boundary of the softest and stock spring. Just dropped the softest spring in so I imagine Ill need that bit of air to hold the fork up in the travel.
If you want max. air in there, put it all together, flip it upside down and take the footnut off the bottom to let the air equalize then just put it back on (can be after you;ve out oil in the top or just fill it up from the bottom)
They fit in both 2011 & 2010, you just need to swap the spring seat at the bottom as the steel springs have a smaller ID
k, i was told in 2010 the steel spring wouldn't fit in my 888 ti.
By who ? I myself was told the opposite. With the correct spring braket it is supposed to fit.
I actually have a 2011 Evo and ordered a Ti spring. It is in the mail and ill get it in 2 years when the Canada Post strike ends
I ordered it direct from marzocchi canada. I doubt these guys are wrong.
do it !
Stanchion ID's are different. Not gonna work. Been tried.I have a 2010 Ti normal stiffness spring left over (I changed to stiff) and my wife has a 2011 no Ti 888. I can just drop the Ti spring in there and see what happens.
If it works...anyone want to buy a normal/mid/standard/ rated Ti spring?
didnt all the 2011's go to a tapered stanchion like the 2010 Ti's?
Nope my 2011 Evo has straight stanchions !
The Steel coil in my fork has an 30mm OD
Anyone with a Ti lying around can mesure the OD ?
I was at the Triple DHip at Sol Vista this weekend so I didn't get around to it. But I will take mine and the wife's apart soon (with pictures) to end this debate.
Well sports fans you'll have to wait. The DMV took too much of my day and I have to start packing for the Crested Butte race already.
Soon though.
Well sports fans you'll have to wait. The DMV took too much of my day and I have to start packing for the Crested Butte race already.
Soon though.
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Hey guys, I have looked everywhere for this and I'm sure I'm missing something obvious but can anyone tell me how to pull apart the fork for an oil change? I've never had a marzocchi before and I'm afraid ill wreck something. I was planning to just remove top cap stuff, remove cartridges and spring and then undo lower bolts to get stanchions out. Cheers
edit - all good, just winged it and was fine. easy as brew!
edit - all good, just winged it and was fine. easy as brew!
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hi there guys.
just picked up a second hand 888 rc3 ti 2011.
i just need to find a online manual for how many clicks of each adjustment and the stock settings, so i can get them dialed.
can anyone link me to one other than the marzocchi website one which has how to put your mudguard on etc......
just picked up a second hand 888 rc3 ti 2011.
i just need to find a online manual for how many clicks of each adjustment and the stock settings, so i can get them dialed.
can anyone link me to one other than the marzocchi website one which has how to put your mudguard on etc......
Called and talked to marzocchi today. Od of ti coils are larger than steel coils.
Marzocchi doesn't provide recommended settings. Try 2 turns of preload, 0 turns of volume adjust, 6 clicks of compression, and rebound to taste. Before you do that though loosen the tops caps to let any pressure that's built up escape. This is a little trickier on the damper side cuz of the o-ring on the volume adjuster.
Does anyone have a service manual for the 888 evo's? Dealers get them right?