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2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread

staike

Monkey
May 19, 2011
247
0
Norway
That's the point. I don't have the money for a new (ti) spring right now. The local dealer don't have soft steel springs and he won't get any before november. I'm really close to get it perfect for me. And I'm constantly gaining weight now, so I don't feel like I need the softer spring as it'll be useless for me in 6 months.

But fine, I'll keep it the way it is for tomorrow and come back with some more feedback on it. If I'm still not satisfied I will first try to remove the VA-chamber. Just to clarify, the only thing I have to remove is the o-ring that seals the air chamber from the "oil" chamber? If that don't work out I'll swap half of the oil for 5WT, like suggested on the previous page.

Do anyone else here at the same weight as me have a setup on the fork they can share?
 
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staike

Monkey
May 19, 2011
247
0
Norway
Anyone? How do I remove the VA chamber?

I've been riding the fork for over a week now and I only get around 150-160 mm travel max out of it from normal riding (I'm using all my travel at the rear shock). I've also bought 5WT oil with a csT of 22.6, so that'll hopefully do the trick in combination with removing the VA chamber.
 

peterdaam

Chimp
Aug 8, 2002
21
0
Vancouver BC Canada
what % sag do you get just sitting on the bike (in the riding position)?

what what i understand, you don't actually have to take the VA out, you can remove that o-ring at the bottom of it, which will allow air to pass. this might be an easy trial to see if you get less progressiveness before you take the whole VA out.
 

BadDNA

hophead
Mar 31, 2006
4,259
232
Living the dream.
Anybody know where I can get a set of firm or x-firm springs for my 2011 888 RC3 EVO? My LBS came up dry, apparently Marzocchi doesn't have any right now either.
 

peterdaam

Chimp
Aug 8, 2002
21
0
Vancouver BC Canada
24% sag.

Thanks, I will try it!
The only way that i can think of to get more sag is to get a softer spring or get some negative air pressure in the system... this is hard to explain, i did it on my 55 RC3 Ti...

First step, try to remove that o-ring, i'm assuming you know what which one i mean?
You need to remove the cap on the spring side first, then remove the cap on the damping side.
push the fork down (not too far, oil might want to creep out!) and then pull up on the damping rod (damping side cap). from what i can recall, it's about 5-6" down, the rod will pretty much 'pop' out, that o-ring that pops out is the one you want to remove. It might be hard to remove because it probably won't fit over the cap. i'm no expert but you might be able to remove it out of it's place holder and let it sit above (in the VA area). then put it all back together and see how it feels, maybe ride down the street a little bit and see if you can bottom it out. measure your sag too.

if that doesn't work i can try and explain the negative air thing!
 

Xetal

Chimp
May 30, 2011
35
0
Anyone? How do I remove the VA chamber?
You unscrew the top cap. Remove the C-Clip, washer, o-ring, top cap. Then you have to TAP out the bottom seal on the VA assy. I used a big Adjustable Wrench made it the right size over the it and one good hit is all it needed. Then you cant remove the red part and undo the top of the rod to get out the black part.


Easy 10 min job. Makes your fork 35g lighter.
 

staike

Monkey
May 19, 2011
247
0
Norway
I've already done an oil change (bought it used) so I know how to take the apart.

Xetal; Thanks! But I did not understand where to tap. Here's a picture I found of the fork, where do I tap? Under the whole volume adjuster? http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5374/img0033yf.jpg

peterdaam; Thank to you as well! By negative air, do you mean compressing the cartridge all the way and mount the top cap again? And then when you pull it up again there will be negative air pressure?
 

peterdaam

Chimp
Aug 8, 2002
21
0
Vancouver BC Canada
yup that's right. i did it with my AV and you can't really do too much because of the strokes of everything, but with the VA out you should be able to achieve quite a bit more negative air pressure... go right to the end if you can, then put the cap on.

on my 55, i put it down right until the oil was about to spill out. works great!
 

Xetal

Chimp
May 30, 2011
35
0
Xetal; Thanks! But I did not understand where to tap. Here's a picture I found of the fork, where do I tap? Under the whole volume adjuster? http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5374/img0033yf.jpg
On top of the black red circled o-ring is the VA assembly. Silver/Red/Black you put your wrench on top of the black part and wack it down. so Silver/Red/Wrench/black the wrench sit on top of the black piece. The goal is to remove the black piece from the rest of the assembly. Once the Silver/red assembly removed youll be able to undo the top of the rod and slide out the black piece. Then you can re-assemble and forget about the VA assembly.

As i said mine was defective from day one and it is better out then IN. In my case 190 pounds i replaced the VA by 115ml of oil. It feels way better and is a lot more consistent.
 

staike

Monkey
May 19, 2011
247
0
Norway
Yay, my fork is now 33 g lighter!



And I now have 32% sag with maximum negative air pressure in the cartridge side. and the VA assembly removed. Feels a little too soft to be honest, but I will have to actually try it (tomorrow) on a trail first. On my old 66 I had 27% sag and that felt really good. I can probably adjust the preload with the negative air a little bit if I want to.
 

Xetal

Chimp
May 30, 2011
35
0
Yay, my fork is now 33 g lighter!



And I now have 32% sag with maximum negative air pressure in the cartridge side. and the VA assembly removed. Feels a little too soft to be honest, but I will have to actually try it (tomorrow) on a trail first. On my old 66 I had 27% sag and that felt really good. I can probably adjust the preload with the negative air a little bit if I want to.
Or add Oil in the Damper side. 10ml at the time. I needed to add 110ml for my fat ass not to wack it in brutally. But now it feels perfect ! But you loose your weight save fo sho ! Marzocchi recommended me 100ml to replace the VA.
 
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staike

Monkey
May 19, 2011
247
0
Norway
Ok, thanks! The weight difference don't worry me, haha. But as I have removed the VA now, it's much easier to play a little bit more around with the settings and stuff, I do atleast get it soft enough now! :)
 

staike

Monkey
May 19, 2011
247
0
Norway
Finally! Got the fork set up really really good today.

So, here's my settings for those of you that might be interested:

Rider weight: 136 lbs / 62 kg
Bike: Trek Session 2010
Stock oil heights (320/80) and stock oil
VA removed.
50% negative air
Sag: 27%
Compression: 0 clicks
Rebound: 12 clicks
Spring preload: none

Super stoked on the fork now. Thanks for the help!
 

Lelandjt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 4, 2008
2,525
868
Breckenridge, CO/Lahaina,HI
My point is I think the bike works better with much less sag in front than back and other fast guys agree (similar to fast motocross setup). I can't see why this wouldn't help slower riders too. Not saying you have to do it but this is a tuning thread and my suggestion is to try running sub %20 fork sag and tuning the fork to be linear enough that you still use full travel on the hardest hits.
 

staike

Monkey
May 19, 2011
247
0
Norway
The point of actually running sag is partly for the fork to extend into holes in the ground, my bike also feels really raked out with little sag and it feels like it's skipping over holes instead of absorbing them. But I have friends who run around 15-20% and that's what works best for them, so it's a very personal thing, like most other things on a bike.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,084
9,744
AK
My point is I think the bike works better with much less sag in front than back and other fast guys agree (similar to fast motocross setup). I can't see why this wouldn't help slower riders too. Not saying you have to do it but this is a tuning thread and my suggestion is to try running sub %20 fork sag and tuning the fork to be linear enough that you still use full travel on the hardest hits.
Because slower riders aren't riding fast over rough enough terrain to active the suspension and make that happen.

My front spring is too hard.

At high speed in crazy super-chunk, like South Mountain, some other places, it's great. The more I try to ride casually and just for fun, the less "fun" the suspension is. Due to logistics, time, varied riding, and so on, that type of riding on that bike is a very small precentage for me. So do I set it up to be great during that one situation and suck everywhere else? Kind of like: "Why do I have this suspension when it's doing nothing for me"?

Linear sounds like a bad idea for the "oh sh*t" situations that we don't plan on as well.

I've had some wonderful benefits from losing 60lbs of weight. Suspension tuning isn't one of them though. I haven't kept the spring sizes, I've been constantly changing them, but I can't keep up (could be parasites!).
 
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JohnnyC

Monkey
Feb 10, 2006
399
1
Rotorua, New Zealand
My point is I think the bike works better with much less sag in front than back and other fast guys agree (similar to fast motocross setup). I can't see why this wouldn't help slower riders too. Not saying you have to do it but this is a tuning thread and my suggestion is to try running sub %20 fork sag and tuning the fork to be linear enough that you still use full travel on the hardest hits.
Because slower riders aren't as strong and also fast riders tend to be moving....faster


I ride at an OK pace but don't ride downhill bikes much any more so when I do I need more sag or else my skinny little arms won't hold on and the front wheel won't have a whole lot of grip.
 

Percy

Monkey
May 2, 2005
426
0
Christchurch NZ
Because slower riders aren't as strong and also fast riders tend to be moving....faster


I ride at an OK pace but don't ride downhill bikes much any more so when I do I need more sag or else my skinny little arms won't hold on and the front wheel won't have a whole lot of grip.
Moar pies!!:D:thumb:

Ahem, I agree, and I have moar pies on board.:weee:
 

Enrico

Chimp
Oct 24, 2011
5
0
Hi, i just got my self a new 888 evo and would like some set up tips as a start line for the begining before i even open it up. I have the stock spring and weight 165. Thank you very much in advance for your help, its my first 200 mm fork, and i just want to have it somewhere near right to start off and move from there.

Compression?
Volume Adjust?
Preload?
Rebound?
 

peterdaam

Chimp
Aug 8, 2002
21
0
Vancouver BC Canada
I weigh about the same and i have it setup as follows:
3-4 clicks in for compression
0 turns in (full out) volume adjust
0 turns in (full out) preload
12 clicks in for rebound (set this up to feel)

i ride the north shore (vancouver), Whistler and other surrounding areas. i'm no racer but i like to go fast and i also enjoy the free-ride tech stuff!

hope that helps!
 

Enrico

Chimp
Oct 24, 2011
5
0
I weigh about the same and i have it setup as follows:
3-4 clicks in for compression
0 turns in (full out) volume adjust
0 turns in (full out) preload
12 clicks in for rebound (set this up to feel)

i ride the north shore (vancouver), Whistler and other surrounding areas. i'm no racer but i like to go fast and i also enjoy the free-ride tech stuff!

hope that helps!
thanks for the info. ill let you know how it worked out for me.
 

Enrico

Chimp
Oct 24, 2011
5
0
I went riding yesterday with the setting that peterdaam gave me and the fork feels great! The only thing i noticed is that im not using the full travel, will it help if i back off compression? or what can i do to make use full travel. Havent done huge drops with yet but ridden over very big rocky terrain with medium drops.

Thank you
 

Mo(n)arch

Turbo Monkey
Dec 27, 2010
4,442
1,428
Italy/south Tyrol
Try to reduce compression damping. If this doesn't help you can try to rebuild the VA chamber with the fork compressed. This will help with too early ramping up.
Otherwise you can remove a bit of oil in the damper side.
 
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peterdaam

Chimp
Aug 8, 2002
21
0
Vancouver BC Canada
Exactly what Mo(n)arch said, this will give you negative air pressure on the damping side which will give less bottom out resistance.

I only use about 180mm of travel too, and bottom out the odd time on the big hits or larger drops.
 

Enrico

Chimp
Oct 24, 2011
5
0
Thank you guys for the help. I will try it out and see what works best. For now ill back off compression a click or two. Ill wait for some big stuff and see how much i use there before opening it.
 

bendik.ph

Chimp
Oct 6, 2011
21
0
I weigh about the same and i have it setup as follows:
3-4 clicks in for compression
0 turns in (full out) volume adjust
0 turns in (full out) preload
12 clicks in for rebound (set this up to feel)

i ride the north shore (vancouver), Whistler and other surrounding areas. i'm no racer but i like to go fast and i also enjoy the free-ride tech stuff!

hope that helps!
Hi Peterdaam, when you say 0 turns (full out) volume adjust, does it mean you turn it clockwise until it stops or turn it counterclockwise until it stops. i weigh about 170 lbs.

is the tall crown available for the 2012 marzocchi 888 rc3 evo? where is this available?