I replaced the stock spring on 888 EVO last night for the heavier one. The stock spring had a shrink wrap around it and the heavier one did not. Aside from being louder is there any downside to not having the shrink wrap on the spring?
2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
- Thread starter Kanye West
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the "cup" is the small groove on the middle two seals right? and they can only be taken out by removing the stanchions?
That is correct. They come stock with those little dabs of grease that are machine dropped in there. Filling them in with grease so it is flush with the groove is pretty much ideal. Doesn't need any more than that.
The same goes for the dust wiper too though. It has a "cup" the same way as the oil seal does, but I don't think it is as wide.
The same goes for the dust wiper too though. It has a "cup" the same way as the oil seal does, but I don't think it is as wide.
i know the dust seals on the new 888's are recessed more than the previous years, but can i pry them up after moving that spring and get access to the oil seal to pack the grease in there?
You can pry them up, but like I said, grease doesn't go there. That's where the foam ring sits. If you want to do anything to it, just drop the fork out of the crowns, pry the dust wiper up and off of the stanchion, then take out the foam ring and soak it in oil for about 10 minutes and put it back in and put some grease in the dust wiper lip. You can't grease the oil seal without removing the stanchion.
gotcha, forgot about the foam ring in there. what kind of oil can i get by with?
i dont have the fork near me, but are there indents to pry the dust seals up like the previous ones?...since these are recessed
are the oil seals upside down in that pic? is the groove suppose to be facing downwards?
I use motor oil. Heavier is better. 80w gear oil works great and seems to last longer.
Use a razor blade or very thin flathead (like you'd use for your glasses or something) to get under the dust wiper initially.
They're right side up in the pic. Should be able to see the spring thing from the top.
Use a razor blade or very thin flathead (like you'd use for your glasses or something) to get under the dust wiper initially.
They're right side up in the pic. Should be able to see the spring thing from the top.
awesome, thanks for the help.
i put a 8cm wide shrink wrap in the middle of my spring, kills all the noise.
Anyone know the clamp size of the top crown of the 2010 evo ti? I know the stanctions are 38mm, but they taper at the crowns. With the tapers, are the clamps the same as the fox 40? Would the fox crowns fit on the evo ti?
I'm in the market for a double crown fork and really like the new evo ti, but would love it if I could put I a direct mount stem (boxxer style) on it. That being said, is Risse Racing still in business and making clamps for the 2010 888s?
I'm in the market for a double crown fork and really like the new evo ti, but would love it if I could put I a direct mount stem (boxxer style) on it. That being said, is Risse Racing still in business and making clamps for the 2010 888s?
Ok guys. Time to Troubleshoot. I sent this email to Marz and the only solution I received was "add 5-10 ccs of oil". They weren't anymore specific than that such as what weight or which leg. So can I get some feedback on this?
This was the email I sent:
"At Nationals, Ronnie rebuilt my fork to the "same" specs as Bryson Jr.'s. On Sunday, the day after he rebuilt it, the fork started randomly blowing through the travel, I figured it was a high speed thing so I turned that up a bit but even then, the feeling was inconsistent. One of the guys here in Phoenix that works at a shop has the same fork and is experiencing the same problem. My lack of knowledge into the inner workings of this fork kind of leaves me off the back, my only thought being that the Air Spring has blown an O-Ring or there's a blown seal. But if that were the case the fork would be consistently bad and that's not what is happening; the fork will be amazing and then I'll push into a turn or obstacle and bottom out with zero resistance"
This was the email I sent:
"At Nationals, Ronnie rebuilt my fork to the "same" specs as Bryson Jr.'s. On Sunday, the day after he rebuilt it, the fork started randomly blowing through the travel, I figured it was a high speed thing so I turned that up a bit but even then, the feeling was inconsistent. One of the guys here in Phoenix that works at a shop has the same fork and is experiencing the same problem. My lack of knowledge into the inner workings of this fork kind of leaves me off the back, my only thought being that the Air Spring has blown an O-Ring or there's a blown seal. But if that were the case the fork would be consistently bad and that's not what is happening; the fork will be amazing and then I'll push into a turn or obstacle and bottom out with zero resistance"
air spring? im guessing its the 888 ATA?
its the evo ti. they have an air assist spring don't they?
Nomenclature problem. That's what I was referring to. The problem is consistent which leads me to think its not an oring, if that was the case, wouldn't it happen more frequently? I will be riding and it will be working superbly then randomly it'll have zero resistance.
Low oil level allowing air into the compression piston?
2012 Evo's stanchions look slllliick. gold anno stanchions.
skip to 8:50 and bypass the most annoying person in the world:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/just-the-tip-1-vegas-2010.html
skip to 8:50 and bypass the most annoying person in the world:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/just-the-tip-1-vegas-2010.html
damn thats hawt.
where on PB did you find that?
where on PB did you find that?
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I like my MZ, but isnt it time to do away with the 'M' arch and crowns? Really should go flat, and offer 2 upper crown options - flat and drop ( rop for long headtube/stack, or rider preference bar height; the flat/slammed thing has started to go away; especially with comments like Fairclough's becoming more common.)
I think it's funny that they're going to offer different colored stanchions now when they've been forcing god awful white lowers with no alternates for a few years now......
I think it's funny that they're going to offer different colored stanchions now when they've been forcing god awful white lowers with no alternates for a few years now......
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dont they have optional crowns?
nice touch to the knobs
edit: i still see their own stem mount on those crowns..maybe its just what they had around?
edit: i still see their own stem mount on those crowns..maybe its just what they had around?
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or the guys from Mozart can contact themI think they will stick to their top crown design for their bomber direct mount stems.Shame if they where smart they could contact the guy's from Mozartt to make the top crowns with the Boxxer mounts that they made for the 2004-2007 triple 8's.
would love green color to my sunday
nooooooope. They did have a crown they would sell me for ~300 that they couldnt guarantee would do the job, but it was old inventory from 08 that didnt go into production. I had to get an overbuilt (really 2-3x as much material as needed) drop crown from Risse (very bad design, but does the job nothing else will, and one plus is it has 888 and boxxer stem mounts.)
Qualify: V Bad design in that its way overbuilt, has many sharp machined edges, bulky clamping area on the rear of the crown instead of the front where it should be for clearance and load (RS design win there!) which is ready to crush any toptube it meets as it projects further than the rubber stops/bumpers. Its been on the grinding wheel and is going back! Now if I could re-ano it, we'd be starting to get somewhere.
Edit: you said touch...knobs
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seems i developed a slight knock from the spring side.
can i just yank the spring out and reposition it back in there?
can i just yank the spring out and reposition it back in there?
I've got the same thing since I put in the stiffer coil. Hoping some shrink wrap will fix it.
the stock Ti spring doesnt have shrink wrap on it, its like a thick plastic
If you can see where the spring is rubbing, maybe try some heat shrink around the spring? Most industrial electical supplys have shrink wrap that's big enough...
havent yanked it out yet to see. im assuming its no different then any other fork in regards to how the spring sits in there?
Mine's running great so I couldn't say how it's in there. Tear it up and let me know...
the noise just started recently. dunno why. ill worry about it tomorrow after i ride.Mine's running great so I couldn't say how it's in there. Tear it up and let me know...
put a 6-8 cm wide heat shrink tube on the middle of the spring
going searching for some extra big shrink wrap tomorrow.