so where's the news here?more 2011 and 2012 goodness.
new black TiNi stanchions for this winter for me!
http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/features/2011-Marzocchi-888-Fork-Lineup,4048/sspomer,2
That is realy sick and i hear Ronnie mentioned it will not be an everyones fork any more but your'e own personal fork.Great that they will building the fork specific for each rider so they are not going to be the same.more 2011 and 2012 goodness.
new black TiNi stanchions for this winter for me!
http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/features/2011-Marzocchi-888-Fork-Lineup,4048/sspomer,2
theyve always done a "works" tune on forks. they just seem to be pushing it more nowThat is realy sick and i hear Ronnie mentioned it will not be an everyones fork any more but your'e own personal fork.Great that they will building the fork specific for each rider so they are not going to be the same.
Have someone push down really hard on the handlebar when you tighten the nut. This will help the rod get some purchase on the lowers. The Marz guys use an air tool on that nut so try that if one's available.I tried to tighten the nut underneath the knob but it just seems to spin when a decent amount of force is applied.
I've jumped on about 10 or so Nickel coated and anno Al stanchions from 2008 to 2010 888's. With rare exception the anno's are smoother. Mine is a nickel plated and the next one I get will probably be an anno one.is the ano smoother than the nickle plating...I ve heard it mentioned a few times here?
No changes between '10 and '11.What's new with the 2011s over the 2010s?
Also, what's the difference with the RCVs and the EVOs for 2011?
it's the compression adjusterbut I'm wondering what that gold knob is at the bottom of the RCV's right leg. Maybe a compression adjuster. Does the RCV use a damper in the right leg also? Looks like you might want to stick with the EVO.
http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/Popup/popupDetailForksFeatures.asp?LN=UK&idC=1551&IdFolder=140&IdOggetto=58139The gold-coloured knob installed in the lower part of the fork leg adjusts the compression.
There's oils that are less heat sensitive. There's a reading for it(can't recall of the top of my head), but I'm not sure if this is your problem.I love my zoke 888 2010 and my rocco rear shock. Both zokes work in harmony. My biggest gripe is during long sustained rocky decents. The suspension works great initially but seems to pack up or build up pressure after a while. This results in what seems to be compression spikes. I'm not sure if the suspension over heats but I'd like know how to combat this problem. I really wish there was some sort of pressure release valve or something? Would switching to a 5wt oil help?
Are you saying there was a recall on the first production run world cups?anyone have a first production run Marzo 2010 RC3 EVO that had it's cartridge RMAd? Marzo (ITA) says it had some sorta problem with the original cartridge that needs to be replaced.
Mine's on its way, but curious to know if there are any performance differences?
maybe take a click off of the rebound damping? Heat should only be a problem in the rear shock. the large oil volume in the fork shouldnt have problems with heat.I love my zoke 888 2010 and my rocco rear shock. Both zokes work in harmony. My biggest gripe is during long sustained rocky decents. The suspension works great initially but seems to pack up or build up pressure after a while. This results in what seems to be compression spikes. I'm not sure if the suspension over heats but I'd like know how to combat this problem. I really wish there was some sort of pressure release valve or something? Would switching to a 5wt oil help?
To make the fork more linear you need to increase the air volume, and there's 3 ways to do this:I ride a 2010 evo and am pretty happy with it, but the fork is so progressiv, that I barely can use the last 2cm of travel. Is there too much oil in the leg?
Oh, and the air chamber is fully open.
So what is the actual meaning of that o-ring if it is possible to ride whitout it?3. The RC3 knob moves a piston (which forms the ceiling of the damper chamber) up and down. If you remove the o-ring from this piston you increase the air volume by the volume above the piston. This may make the fork too easy to bottom and may require going back up in oil volume.
I have the pre-EVO RC3 damper and I run the recommended amount of oil in both legs with no o-ring on the RC3 (I also run a modified ATA spring). I get the amount of sag I want and full travel only on the hardest hits. I frequently get 185mm travel.
The o-ring forms a seal around the piston. This lets the piston height determine the air volume above the oil and therefor the progressiveness of the fork. Removing the o-ring allows air to pass by the piston. This makes the RC3 adjuster do nothing and increases the air volume by quite a bit (the amount of air above the piston. Removing the RC3 knob and piston would do the same thing. Since I like this setting I may try to do this to "clean up" the fork and drop a little weight. Of course this is harder, may be permanent, and requires sealing the hole in the top cap.So what is the actual meaning of that o-ring if it is possible to ride whitout it?
no idea about world cups, can only speak for 1st prod run EVO RC3s as that's what Marzo ITA told me. Funny thing actually:i contacted them about a small leak around the compression nut (turned out to be some o-rings that were a bit squashed, probably due to overtightening during assembly), and the support guy said straight off the bat when he saw my fork was a 1st production run fork, that i needed a new cartridge.Are you saying there was a recall on the first production run world cups?
that's pretty interesting, as I've been wondering how to control the dive on my 888 EVO. I'm currently sitting on 2 clicks off max compression, but considering just how few adjustment clicks there are, it's surprising how each click does not produce a tangible effect.Let's talk about the VA control on the 2010 888 EVO. When I talk to the tech at zoke, he claims the VA is for dive control, however, the label and website claim it's for progression. When I apply a few clicks of VA, I seem to lose small chatter sensitivity and a general stiffining of the entire stroke. I was wishing this would affect only the last part of the travel like a PAR chamber or an end stroke compression clicker but it seems to affect the entire stroke. Does anyone use the VA? If so, how much do you weigh and how many clicks do you use?
Preload would only really stop dive in the initial stroke. A heavier spring would hold the fork up more, but may be too heavy for full travel. Preload is overcome, and surpassed once the spring is into some travel(more than the preload had taken up)making preload virtually negligible for holding the fork up in ride height.You ever tried using preload to control dive?
You can also replace the 7.5wt oil with 10 wt, or a mix of 7.5 and 10wt. That's how we tuned 888s back in '05. Of course this will slow the high speed compression and rebound as well.Its the spring rate and low speed compression damping that controls how much dive you get. I would dial up the compression until the fork isn't diving then if it becomes too harsh from there, you can tweak the shim stack to remove some high speed compression without compromising the low speed too much.
I can't recall, but isn't Ms 7.5wt the same as 10wt?You can also replace the 7.5wt oil with 10 wt, or a mix of 7.5 and 10wt. That's how we tuned 888s back in '05. Of course this will slow the high speed compression and rebound as well.