Yup this would be the best bet!
2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
- Thread starter Kanye West
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They are stripped and brushed and now clear coated (did a decent job up until the most recent touch up, where the BLOB attacked - now to see if I should wet sand or just deal.)
SNEAK PREVIEW (Still needs pinch bolts/'nuts' installed and adjuster caps (& wheels) )
Anyone interested in trading a newish 2010 stock Ti spring for a firm spring?
I just got an x-firm for mine and I was looking at the shring wrapping wondering if I should leave it on....then I ripped it off, should I have left that on there and what do you guys use instead? There doesn't seem to be enough room for electrical shrink wrap to fit?
I recently purchased a 888CR and a firm spring to go with it.
The extra spring didn't come wrapped so I wrapped it with transparant shrinkwrap used for battery packs.
It fit's just fine.
I might be mistaken, but I believe the main reason for the wrapping is to elminate any rattling from the spring.
The extra spring didn't come wrapped so I wrapped it with transparant shrinkwrap used for battery packs.
It fit's just fine.
I might be mistaken, but I believe the main reason for the wrapping is to elminate any rattling from the spring.
This.
Hrmmm. Relating to rattling springs: I've just finished putting my fork back together after stripping it down for the first time (it has been done before by a shop) and the spring seems to rub on the stantion each time the fork is compressed.
I had a 6.6n/mm spring put in about a year ago and it has never had shrink wrap on it and it has never had this problem before. I have checked to see if the spring is seated correctly and it is so I have nfi why this issue has arisen.
Anyone have any ideas?
I had a 6.6n/mm spring put in about a year ago and it has never had shrink wrap on it and it has never had this problem before. I have checked to see if the spring is seated correctly and it is so I have nfi why this issue has arisen.
Anyone have any ideas?
Ha, Ava cart going in this weekend, it'll be a while before I get to ride it.
Maybe it will help me avoid future shoulder surgery....
~!!
Maybe it will help me avoid future shoulder surgery....
~!!
Mine did this early on but then I 'reseated' it, and it behaved mostly bar the occasional scrootch; then the vol adjust would clack if I used it at all and I briefly mistook it for spring noise (good thing I dont use it).
I'm switching to a Firm from X Firm due to dropping a ton of weight, I hope the new spring comes with wrap (the stock one did).
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189 lb with all apparel.
i ride light downhill.
the ti spring is the standard one.
what settings do you advice? (preload mainly)
ps. i don't want to change the ti spring if needed, cause it is expensive...
thank you!
i ride light downhill.
the ti spring is the standard one.
what settings do you advice? (preload mainly)
ps. i don't want to change the ti spring if needed, cause it is expensive...
thank you!
you can try adding some negative pressure to the fork leg by compressing it slightly then tightening the top cap of the damper side.
I think I have already done this unintentionally, the compression damper seems to want to suck down on itself and I'm assuming that I have pulled the station tube up over the damper while it wasn't fully extended. Would this also create negative pressure?
This will piss you off but anyway; go up to a firm spring. Using preload and compression to account for a spring that is way too light for you will only make the fork feel like ****.freeriding said:
^Yup*, if you are outside the average weight range (150-175lbs naked) and buy coil suspension just figure the cost of a new spring into it. There's no way around it besides buying air suspension, which sometimes can't support 200lb+ riders. Using too firm or soft a spring won't let the suspension and bike geometry work.
*Here's what you want to hear and what to do until that firm spring arrives:
Preload: A counter-clockwise turn out from full preload
Volume Adjust: 1/2 way in (clockwise)
Compression: 1/2 way in
Rebound: To taste, slow enough that it doesn't just shoot back but quicker than the rear.
*Here's what you want to hear and what to do until that firm spring arrives:
Preload: A counter-clockwise turn out from full preload
Volume Adjust: 1/2 way in (clockwise)
Compression: 1/2 way in
Rebound: To taste, slow enough that it doesn't just shoot back but quicker than the rear.
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this is really interesting? what do you think?
so i guess the hi/lo compression damping is adjusted like this:
so if someone wants little dive in berms, braking, pedalling etc, the knob should be fully at +...
nothing that was said here before!!
so i guess the hi/lo compression damping is adjusted like this:
so if someone wants little dive in berms, braking, pedalling etc, the knob should be fully at +...
nothing that was said here before!!
http://themarzocchiworkshop.posterous.com/set-up-understanding-the-marzocchi-888
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Cheers
Thank you guys, this is by far the best Marzocchi thread out there. The others, German ones in particular, are about as helpful and knowledgeable as the German Importer.
I'm 205lbs/93kg with kit running a 888 2012 Evo Ti V2 in black with a green Fox Spring, the foam rings have already been replaced with super slick. 10 clicks rebound, 8 clicks compression (before taking out the VA o ring I was at 1 click progression) My sled is a 2011 Makulu, 63.5° HA.
After having problems with oil getting by the o ring into the VA chamber (like some others as I have read) causing some weird kind of sticky overly progressive feel I have now taken out the o ring and added 100 cc 7.5 oil. The fork feels so much better now (Parking lot test only), I just hope I wont have problems with bottoming out now.
Here is my question: Should I remove the whole VA unit or leave it the way it is for now.
BTW. Looks like Marzocchi didn't fix the problem with the VA unit for 2012
Thank you guys, this is by far the best Marzocchi thread out there. The others, German ones in particular, are about as helpful and knowledgeable as the German Importer.
I'm 205lbs/93kg with kit running a 888 2012 Evo Ti V2 in black with a green Fox Spring, the foam rings have already been replaced with super slick. 10 clicks rebound, 8 clicks compression (before taking out the VA o ring I was at 1 click progression) My sled is a 2011 Makulu, 63.5° HA.
After having problems with oil getting by the o ring into the VA chamber (like some others as I have read) causing some weird kind of sticky overly progressive feel I have now taken out the o ring and added 100 cc 7.5 oil. The fork feels so much better now (Parking lot test only), I just hope I wont have problems with bottoming out now.
Here is my question: Should I remove the whole VA unit or leave it the way it is for now.
BTW. Looks like Marzocchi didn't fix the problem with the VA unit for 2012
wait, what?
those work in there with no problem?
Cut off the shrink tube in the middle and they fit exactly like the MZ spring. Since they are coated they don't rattle either. The Fox Ti spring is 80 gr heavier than the stock Ti spring though 
. The Green seems to be in between the firm and X-firm, the blue between medium and firm....
. The Green seems to be in between the firm and X-firm, the blue between medium and firm....
I don't see how backing off the compression adjustment dial could increase HSC. Can someone explain how this works? I assumed it both operated a spring on the shim stack and a needle in a port, thereby controling HSC and LSC with one dial and clockwise would increase damping on both circuits.
Not doubting that graph and previous post but how bout some clarification?
Not doubting that graph and previous post but how bout some clarification?
good to know, thanks.Cut off the shrink tube in the middle and they fit exactly like the MZ spring. Since they are coated they don't rattle either. The Fox Ti spring is 80 gr heavier than the stock Ti spring though
does the shrink wrap somehow interfere?
their blue spring sounds about what i am looking for.
That's pretty whack, if true, and would require a pretty complex adjustment mechanism. I suspect the guy explaining it has simply got it wrong however!
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Assuming you can fit fox 40 springs in the 888 here's a resume of a little research I made trying to figure out what spring I need. Maybe it can help others.
MARZOCCHI
Soft: 4.4 N/mm
Medium (stock): 5.5 N/mm
Firm: 6.5 N/mm
X-firm: 7.7 N/mm
FOX
Black: 5.3 N/mm
Purple: 6.1 N/mm
Blue (stock): 7 N/mm
Green: 7.9 N/mm
Yellow: 8.8 N/mm
Orange: 9.6 N/mm
Red: 11 N/mm
MARZOCCHI
Soft: 4.4 N/mm
Medium (stock): 5.5 N/mm
Firm: 6.5 N/mm
X-firm: 7.7 N/mm
FOX
Black: 5.3 N/mm
Purple: 6.1 N/mm
Blue (stock): 7 N/mm
Green: 7.9 N/mm
Yellow: 8.8 N/mm
Orange: 9.6 N/mm
Red: 11 N/mm
I just tried a blue steel fox spring in my 2012 888...Cut off the shrink tube in the middle and they fit exactly like the MZ spring. Since they are coated they don't rattle either. The Fox Ti spring is 80 gr heavier than the stock Ti spring though
there was no way it could get in with the shrink wrap so I installed to spring alone, after installation I decided not to ride the fork like this, the spring was scrapping HARD inside the stanchion.
Maybe the spring you used was the Ti one?
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Spring comparison is interesting, surely all those numbers need to be moved up a little - I'm of fairly average weight and would be pretty close to an X-firm!
The Fox 40 springs for 2012 are about 1mm smaller in diameter than previous years (to reduce rub), I measured a Blue Ti of new and old. I imagine it would still be a tight fit in a 38mm fork though.
The Fox 40 springs for 2012 are about 1mm smaller in diameter than previous years (to reduce rub), I measured a Blue Ti of new and old. I imagine it would still be a tight fit in a 38mm fork though.
Any reason you don't just buy a firm or x-firm MZ spring? I'm assuming it's because you fall between their rates - but chances are if a normal Fox blue spring is scraping hard like you say, taking 1mm off the diameter (only 0.5 in radius) is probably not going to fix it...
I have a new 888 Evo Ti and on the spring leg I experience slight bushing play. Is this normal in the sense of sliced bushings not filled with oil or should I contact my dealer? (I don't want to send in the fork at this time of the year)
To check just put your frontwheel between your legs and pull at the other side of the bar while checking with a finger between the stanchtions and casting.
To check just put your frontwheel between your legs and pull at the other side of the bar while checking with a finger between the stanchtions and casting.
It isn't normal.
But itshouldn't be a big problem.
Maybe you can let it go right now and warrant it in the wintertime?
But itshouldn't be a big problem.
Maybe you can let it go right now and warrant it in the wintertime?
That's my plan. I hope marz then still exists and has good castings considering they shut down production at suntour.
Made a video:
Made a video:
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I dont know the details about Marzocchi's current woes, but I have been in regular touch with inside sales, and ordered a top crown and heavy spring that just came in stock.
t'would be a sad day in Banzaiville...
t'would be a sad day in Banzaiville...
Any play in the lowers should be a warranty claim. Mine had a slight bushing play in the left leg and even though I wasn't the original owner the 'zocchi rep fixed me up with new lowers with new bushings, seals and some slickery oil. I don't care if any other forks are better (haven't tried any better forks yet though), but having that kind of customer service is enough to keep me on Marzocchi a couple of more years.
The problem ist that the distributor over here in germany sucks big time and after waiting 7 months for my bike I'm not too keen on sending in the fork now.
I'll keep an eye on it and get it done in the off-season. The only problem I see with this strategy is marzocchis situation and the fact that they are currently relocating their production from suntour to somewhere else and the last time they did that quality sucked. So it would probably better to get your hands on a pair of lowers now.
I'll keep an eye on it and get it done in the off-season. The only problem I see with this strategy is marzocchis situation and the fact that they are currently relocating their production from suntour to somewhere else and the last time they did that quality sucked. So it would probably better to get your hands on a pair of lowers now.
I know and a few people told me that it's caused by the sliced bushings which is normal and with more oil it would dissapear (don't have it on the damping-side) so when this works I'm no longer worried but it's a bit irritating on a new fork.
Hmm no. It's a green steel coming off a 2010 40. I have no scraping/rubbing at all. I wouldn't ride mine like that either.
The reason I tried the Fox is that the German distributor is useless. Of course I would like to run a firm or X firm Zocchi. I'll get one with the works tuning when I'm in Whistler in september.
All Marzocchi's will have a small amount of play there, it means there is always oil in between the stanchions and bushings. It won't be noticeable on the trail but it will be in a years time when the fork is still running smooth and you haven't worn out the stanchions (like some other brands
). My 55 was like that 18 months ago when I started riding it and it was still mint when it got sold last weekOh yeah I have made yellow fox springs fit a Ti 888 before, just removed the preload spacer from the top. Then either grease the crap out of it or use some super thin heat shrink like the factory Marz stuff