The hock eyelet slips into the yoke, so each shock needs a different one to accommodate it's eyelet.
Some shock manufacturers (Elka for example) are manufacturing shocks with an eyelet that will fit in the stock fox yoke.
2011 Demo Questions
- Thread starter TurnerDHR23
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 2 moar weeks! 2011 = 2012 demo 9 wants two fsr=for stupid retards here kitty hrc runs 210's im 16 & where is my bike moar bumperz moar chainstays! moar yokes mompaidforfastershipping never going to ship rainbow=!gay rm = rumor mill special proprietary crap the best disc size for dh whaaa i get cost whaaa
Some shock manufacturers (Elka for example) are manufacturing shocks with an eyelet that will fit in the stock fox yoke.
Ta. So theoretically the shocks I mentioned could fit in the supplied yoke?
We prefer an accurate tight fit between the shock eyelet and the shock extension.
Bos/Elka/Avy might fit, but I don't know how WELL they fit. Or they might not fit together at all. Theoretically they could slide together.
JC
^ nice.
^yep.
i'm putting mine together tonite and could use some assistance...
1.are you guys routing your shifter cables and rear brake line thru the "shock tunnel" on the inboard side of the frame? i can see that the shifter cable is easy enough. but, to route the rear brake line, i'll either need to remove the shock (hope my caliper will clear) or unscrew the line at the lever and reattach. seems like a pain, since you may need to rebleed afterwards for the former.
2. any tips on pressing in the BB30 adapters? did your shop do it? or did you jury rig a makeshift press from hardware at home depot?
3. how the hell do you tighten that upper cable guide closest to the headtube? it looks like you need a 5mm with a ball end. any other way?
thank you
1.are you guys routing your shifter cables and rear brake line thru the "shock tunnel" on the inboard side of the frame? i can see that the shifter cable is easy enough. but, to route the rear brake line, i'll either need to remove the shock (hope my caliper will clear) or unscrew the line at the lever and reattach. seems like a pain, since you may need to rebleed afterwards for the former.
2. any tips on pressing in the BB30 adapters? did your shop do it? or did you jury rig a makeshift press from hardware at home depot?
3. how the hell do you tighten that upper cable guide closest to the headtube? it looks like you need a 5mm with a ball end. any other way?
thank you
Last edited:
Put the cups in the adapters before pressing into the BB. I used a headset press. I also faced the BB/ISCG tabs with a hammerschmidt facing tool first.
I used a tiny bent allan key to tighten that cable guide. Even then, it was a bit of a pain - however it's clean and in my opinion, worth the small hassle.
any of you guys know the torque specs for the rear shock eyelet bolts?
thanks for the tips, the installation of the cups into the adapters first is a great idea.
thanks for the tips, the installation of the cups into the adapters first is a great idea.
has anyone tried the bike with a BOS fork?
i'm have one on order and i just saw that straight lower crown (similar to the 40's lower crown) might cause problems and hit the frame...
i'm have one on order and i just saw that straight lower crown (similar to the 40's lower crown) might cause problems and hit the frame...
1) Take the shock out and run the caliper through the bridge. That is the hot setup.
2) Put the plastic cups in a vise and screw in your bearing cups first. The steel washer goes between the cups on the drive side. Then a headset press works best. Or I am sure you can rig something up with big washers and a threaded rod.
3) New frames have a forged aluminum cable holder and a 4mm bolt head where the wrench fits in. If you have the plastic cable holder and a 5 mm bolt, hit up customer service in a few weeks and get the latest at no charge.
Boomslang
awesome...
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=683543
looks like they've spent a lot of time developing that thing ...well done!!!
lol
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=683543
looks like they've spent a lot of time developing that thing ...well done!!!
lol
Boomslang, any truth to the new bumpers not denting the frame and ripping as on the MTBR link, thicker? new design? I ordered the frame, its getting a fox 40, but i would like to know if i should trust the new bumpers, or run a "ghetto" solution.
The new bumpers are a better material, and we have not had a complaint yet. They seem to hold up.
JC
Hey demo 9,
If it makes any difference, personally, I'd rig something up. Specialized's solution is pretty nice looking, but knowing how hard I've ate it in big wrecks I'd be inclined to have 2 larger surface areas colliding with one another.
Looking at those pics on MTBR I instantly thought charpy test. I'm sure the folks at Specialized are on it/have already addressed it, but assuming the design remains the same I'd be concerned that you would still be able to reach that denting threshold at a certain point.
We all know DH bikes take a lot of abuse. The more protection the better. I've seen all kind of stuff people have rigged up. Cable protection, stanchion protection, etc. You know how you ride better than us - so add as much protection as you are comforatble with. It's an investment worth protecting.
JC
If I was on a new Demo with a 40 and an external lower headset cup would drop the lower crown enough to clear the frame, it would be an easy decision. I don't know for certain if this is the case, but a few people have alluded to it.
and especially with a bike with a ridiculously short headtube and a very low bb to begin with, using a normal external cup headset wouldn't change the geo a significant amount either. probably wouldn't even change the HA much.
My thoughts exactly.
& im not against doing so, but, wouldnt that take an already extremely slack bike, and slack it out even more? I dont need a slack HA where i ride, so (while not against it) i would like to try to avoid it? Opinions certainly worth listing, and i do consider them, so thanks to those of you that have.
'11 demo has a "flip chip". if its too steep for ya, you can increase the HA by 1/2 degree and raise bb 10mm.
I do plan on doing that as it is, i guess the next question, is that IF a big bottom cup DOES clear it, how strong is the headtube anyway? if the little rubber ones put a dent, wont the big normal fox ones (especially if they hit the center) I havent seen or touched a 11 demo, so i cant speak for much, aside from 1 guy complaining (which may/may not be credible) If the spesh bumpers work fine for 95% than i am cool with it, but if these start to look like a trek downtube, i will be less likely to trust it, im generally pretty smooth with it, and i whip with my body, not my crowns, so i am in a good spot, but of course not out of the woods yet
Read above, call spec/lbs and get the updated ones..
DH bikes have come a long way. As far as I can remember, till this day, and probably long afterward, there are still going to be people that are tinkering by modifying water bottles, butchering tubes, or scanning for one of the 1 gazzillion things on McMaster-Carr that will in some way shape or form enhance their riding experience.
The haters will hate. And a quick peruse of a few forums will indicated who those people are.
I just wanted to point out to demo 9 that while the included bumpers are nice and something that Specialized quite frankly didn't need to supply at all, I think it would be mistake to put faith in them working flawlessly (saying this as an engineer). I have my reservations that a point/edge contact through an elastomer would diffuse/damp that impact force adequately.
I think you're handling all the questions and concerns pretty elegantly and I understand that there is probably an M.O. to handling something like this
, but in my experience clients and customers sometimes are a real b!tch about minutia like this.
its not the bumpers that are denting the headtube/downtube, apparently the bumpers get forced out of the way/bend/break and the crown dents the bike. the crown contact area has a small surface area up against a broad surface area = dent. you make the contacting surface area larger (bigger bumper like a stock Fox one, or even a stanchion tube) and the frame becomes harder to dent.
i think you will be very pleased with your bike when it shows up. these frames are solid in person. they definitely don't feel like a session 88 when you pick it up; they just "feel" beefy. i know, i know, "feel doesn't mean anything", but that was just my impression.
What you are saying is entirely valid. If you crash hard enough, you can damage anything.
The bumper hits in the thickest part of the tube, which is enough to support the load, for most riders.
From what we've seen so far, they are working. If you guys collectively find that they still don't work, we will keep making it better.
JC
This actually doesn't work. Crown still hits before the stock bumpers. Believe me, that would have been a great option.
Regarding all the geometry questions, there is the flip chip and you have 2-3 inches of adjustment on your fork legs. Between these 2 options, you can dial in just about anything you want.
JC
All done for now. still gotta peel off those world champ stickers
Alittle disappointed that it comes in at 39.4lbs. the parts came directly off my 2009 Session 88. I guess a Ti spring will be going on in the spring, and hopefully bring it under 39lbs.
I agree with ZWW, it definitely feels more solid than the Session, and the weight reflects that.
I do agree that the headtube is un-necessarily short. The lower crown of the dorado does contact the frame if the frame bumpers are removed. I 'll need the figure out something more protective before i take it out for dh runs.
the frame admittedly was finished not as well as the session. Uneven paint, and unremoved excess paint at the shock pivots made removal a big chore.
What did your Session weigh?
Alittle disappointed that it comes in at 39.4lbs. the parts came directly off my 2009 Session 88. I guess a Ti spring will be going on in the spring, and hopefully bring it under 39lbs.
yes i checked to make sure the bike was not touching the floor or the workstand.
i don't mean to hate BoomSlang. it's always nice when someone from industry chimes in and participates in the forums. i think the Demo will be a sweet ride for this upcoming season. i certainly liked the way the suspension felt on my 2010 Stumpjumper FSR, hence why i decided to get the 2011 Demo.
No hate taken. The scale doesn't lie.
Hopefully you will like the suspension performance and the bike will last you a long time.
Boomslang
did you weigh the bare frames?
i was thinkin' of doing that but had a brainfart and forgot.
Love your build! I'm curious about your parts spec. Do you have it listed somewhere?
Alittle disappointed that it comes in at 39.4lbs. the parts came directly off my 2009 Session 88. I guess a Ti spring will be going on in the spring, and hopefully bring it under 39lbs.
Dorado+Demo=
...I always take whatever color comes my way, but I think the black demo and a dorado with no stickers would be the bee's knees.
Last edited:
I like the idea of an extra pound and a little peace of mind with durability in something important like a frame.