[kickstand]

Just purchased a left over 2011 fox 40.

Mounted on the bike, what do you guys all do as a quick once over before riding? should I break it down and make sure it has the proper amounts of oil and such in the fork?

If so does anyone have a quick link to a good step by step video or manual for the service?

Thanks

 

[William42]

fox is usually pretty solid. I recommend making sure everything is torqued correctly, bouncing up and down on it (should be very stiction free, they're typically very smooth out of the box and if they're not, its probably time to check oil levels and do a lowers service) and then go ride the hell out of it.

 

[chillindrdude]

besides a more robust kashima coating, is there any other differences between the 2012 and 2011 fox 40s?

 

[Jeremy R]

besides a more robust kashima coating, is there any other differences between the 2012 and 2011 fox 40s?

Yes, the 2012 seals kick ass, but that is an easy upgrade.

To the OP, I just got a 2012 fox 32 float for my trail bike, and I had to lower the travel right out of the box before I could ride it. But I noticed that it came with the correct oil levels from the factory.

 

[Udi]

besides a more robust kashima coating, is there any other differences between the 2012 and 2011 fox 40s?

It's not actually more robust, it's just a richer / darker colour. Apart from looks (and the easily swappable SKF seals as Jeremy said) the 2011 is just as good as the 2012.

Just purchased a left over 2011 fox 40.

Mounted on the bike, what do you guys all do as a quick once over before riding? should I break it down and make sure it has the proper amounts of oil and such in the fork?

If so does anyone have a quick link to a good step by step video or manual for the service?

They're usually good with oil levels, I'd just ride it and break it in, service after that if you want. It takes a bit of riding for all the seals and bushings to settle in nicely.

Most of this will be applicable if / when you want to service the lowers, obviously some small variations like the rebound adjuster being on the bottom on your fork.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/technical-tuesday-fox-36-service-2010.html

Make sure you use Fox's Green oil, it'll be spec'd from factory and the best thing to run in those lowers.

 

[kickstand]

Thanks guys, I am still waiting on my lower cups for the headset and just wanted to make sure I gave it a once over, so far it feels pretty nice, but thats just me pushing on it by hand since I can't mount it up on the bike yet.

 

[Jeremy R]

Most of this will be applicable if / when you want to service the lowers, obviously some small variations like the rebound adjuster being on the bottom on your fork.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/technical-tuesday-fox-36-service-2010.html

Make sure you use Fox's Green oil, it'll be spec'd from factory and the best thing to run in those lowers.

Yeah, that vid is helpful. The only problem I ran into with mine was figuring out to get that damn cir clip off, and putting it back on was no walk in the park either. Damn little metal snake that thing was.
I suck equally bad at getting off regular C-clips so I believe that the problem lies within.

Also, my '12 40 was the best performing, and most set and forget fork I have ever owned. So, I know I am sipping the kool-aid across the board.

 

[kickstand]

To the OP, I just got a 2012 fox 32 float for my trail bike, and I had to lower the travel right out of the box before I could ride it. But I noticed that it came with the correct oil levels from the factory.

I've also got some varient of the fox 32 120mm (i think) travel fork on my trek fuel, feels great, was a big deciding factor in purchasing the fox 40 for the DH bike.

 

[kickstand]

Also, my '12 40 was the best performing, and most set and forget fork I have ever owned. So, I know I am sipping the kool-aid across the board.

Looks like we are sipping the same koolaid.

 

[Udi]

Also, my '12 40 was the best performing, and most set and forget fork I have ever owned. So, I know I am sipping the kool-aid across the board.

Same story here, sippin away.

Curious, which circlip are you talking about? I don't have to remove any to service the lowers IIRC, there's one involved in bleeding the damper though - or a few if you want to pull it to bits.

 

[Jeremy R]

Same story here, sippin away.

Curious, which circlip are you talking about? I don't have to remove any to service the lowers IIRC, there's one involved in bleeding the damper though - or a few if you want to pull it to bits.

The circlip was on the 32 float, and I only had to remove because I was lowering the fork with a travel spacer.