Quantcast

2015+ fox 36 harsh

92SE-R

piston slapper
Feb 5, 2004
272
13
San Diego, CA
The problem with the MRP system is you reuse the OEM part that causes all the stiction. Sure you can add some extra air pressure in the negative chamber, but then after a certain point, you will start losing travel.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
You guys are slackers. I've got probably 8 rides on mine. I changed my fork from a (stupid fucking useless, seriously fox, just let it die) fit4 damper to an RC2 at the same time so had a lot of fiddlin to do.

It definitely works better than stock and I didn't even really have a bad one. I do feel like it pulls the travel down just a tad. But yeah if you've got one of the fucked 36 forks that wants to give your hands stress fractures, send 92S-ER your first born.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
Very nice! Was there enough wall thickness?
barely :D

Thick enough I got a few threads in there.

I had to space out the zerk with some washers just for some extra piece of mind for the stanchion clearance.

I might do some schrader valves I can back with a thin nut. You know how soft that magnesium alloy is. I'm a little nervous of knocking them.

Those bleed valves on the float 40s should be on every fork made. I just did a 2 hour ride this afternoon and there was all kinds of air in there. I've been having to burp the lowers like every three rides. It's kind of nuts.
 
Last edited:

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
^You'll shoot your eye out kid.



Not really. It's just a pain in the ass and I got tired of bending and breaking zip ties trying to do it that way. I've been just pulling the nuts on the bottom (heh) of my lowers and pushing the rods in. All much more annoying than just hitting the poot button.
 

SuboptimusPrime

Turbo Monkey
Aug 18, 2005
1,663
1,644
NorCack
So you just flip bike over, loosen foot nuts, tap with rubber mallet? Both sides? I can't visualize the internals of a 36 well enough to know that pressure could be released both at the seals and at the foot nuts. But I'm interested to see what I have in there.

Also, someone like OneUp should make a seal burper that works better than a zip tie. I've never been able to ram one in there but have not tried sanding one down to be sharp.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
Yeah on the spring side there's just that 10mm black nut, and the 15mm bigger nut that fits around the bottom of the damper rod. Loosen each, light tap with a rubber mallet. On the damper side, I usually put that black cover on the nut just be sure I'm not hitting the rebound knob pin.

There's not air at the lowers and at the seal. Those are each end of the same open space. One or the other does it.
 

jackalope

Mental acuity - 1%
Jan 9, 2004
7,655
6,034
in a single wide, cooking meth...
^You'll shoot your eye out kid.



Not really. It's just a pain in the ass and I got tired of bending and breaking zip ties trying to do it that way. I've been just pulling the nuts on the bottom (heh) of my lowers and pushing the rods in. All much more annoying than just hitting the poot button.
Do 36's have crush washers around the bolts like the Pikes? I'm assuming not since you were doing the nut job (heh) repeatedly.
 

jackalope

Mental acuity - 1%
Jan 9, 2004
7,655
6,034
in a single wide, cooking meth...
Yup. They have crush washers there.
Huh, I guess I thought those things (at least the plastic ones in RS forks) were a one-n-done deal. When me and Subopt used to do the lowers service on our Pike's, we always replaced the crush washers. I'm guessing it wasn't mandatory, but since they're cheap and easy to replace once you have the lowers off, RS recommended to go ahead and replace them.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,337
6,386
borcester rhymes
you are supposed to replace them, but I'm not sure how many times they can be reused before death. It would be great if you could rejuvenate them like you can sometimes do with copper. Or if they just sold them in bulk for like 50 at a time. Paying $1.50 a pop is kind of stupid.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,583
2,013
Seattle
Mine don't. The bottom of the rods are shaped and fit into a seat in the lowers.
You sure the crush washers didn't just stick to the footnuts when you took them off? Mine both have crush washers.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
I just had it apart yesterday. Both rod ends are shaped in a way that there's at least one flat surface that looks like it seats into the lowers. If it's what I'm envisioning in the lowers and based on how they feel rotating and locking, there's no need for them.

The spring side, note the flat surface on the gold.

https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb13326966/p4pb13326966.jpg

Damper side, flat surface facing like 1 o'clock

https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb10976476/p5pb10976476.jpg



I've had plenty of forks that use them (including previous fox forks) and know very well the joy in spinning a rod over crush washers for an hour trying to get the things to bite. This feels different when you seat them. And it's a way better design.
 
Last edited:

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,583
2,013
Seattle
I put a new set of seals in one of mine on Sunday. The new seal kit came with crush washers, FWIW.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
@HAB

I thought you were talking about the shitty ones on the insides of the lowers like rockshox and marzocchi used. The ones that HAD to be under load to keep the rods from spinning when you put the nuts back on. That's why I was babbling about flat surfaces and stuff.

That external thing that makes no difference whatsoever to anything when burping a fork? Yeah, I got those. :D

I guess I was thinking of spine washers.
https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1pJTdKVXXXXXtXXXXq6xXFXXX1/gear-spine-washer.jpg


Where the fuck's my angle grinder!!??
 
Last edited:

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,583
2,013
Seattle
@HAB

I thought you were talking about the shitty ones on the insides of the lowers like rockshox and marzocchi used. The ones that HAD to be under load to keep the rods from spinning when you put the nuts back on. That's why I was babbling about flat surfaces and stuff.

That external thing that makes no difference whatsoever to anything when burping a fork? Yeah, I got those. :D


Where the fuck's my angle grinder!!??
Ohhhhhh. Yeah, 36s don't have those. :D
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
Yeah I burped just the spring side a few times and then realized I needed to do the other side.

Maybe the smaller chamber on the spring side pushes air out easier at bottom out? Which would mean there are regular fork farts I'm missing out on hearing. Kinda bummed about that prospect.

It's certainly no air spring specific thing though, I had to burp my coil 40 too after two days of riding this past weekend. Like I said earlier in this thread, I've never had a fork of any make, any spring type that doesn't need to be burped occasionally.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,583
2,013
Seattle
I actually suspect that it's building a mild vacuum in the lowers, instead of positive pressure. Next time you take the fork apart, try this: hammer the spring side shaft in with the fork still pressurized, then let all the air out, then take the top cap off the spring side, all without touching the damper side. The fork will probably suck itself shorter.
 

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
Vacuums don't cause forks to only get 60% of their travel if you don't burp them. When I say 'need to burp' that's what I'm talking about. It's not just some emotional want that comes over me during romantic sunsets.

They also don't squirt outwards through freedom nipples™

Yes I'm trademarking. Don't even step or I'll sick weagle's lawyers on you.


I know what you mean though. A vacuum makes more sense. But that ain't it.
 
Last edited: