[johnbryanpeters]

My Intense Tracer came with a Pike fork, 160mm Solo Air, RCT3/27.5”, which is showing signs of aging and wear.

I'm looking for replacement recommendations, and the reasoning behind any such recommendation.

 

[jstuhlman]

Did you like the Pike? If so, why not replace with same? Also, can it not simply be serviced? What type of wear does it have that's leading you to want to replace it?

 

[gonefirefightin]

Not sure if you are on Facebook anymore but used forks can be had for cheap by the hundreds on marketplace.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Did you like the Pike? If so, why not replace with same? Also, can it not simply be serviced? What type of wear does it have that's leading you to want to replace it?

Yes, I am perfectly satisfied with the fork. Left leg is showing a of of wear internally, as noted in annual maintenance/rebuild.

Not sure if you are on Facebook anymore but used forks can be had for cheap by the hundreds on marketplace.

I haven't been of FB for years, and will tend to seek a new fork rather than purchase a used one.

 

[Westy]

160mm is at the limit of travel for a Pike and well withing the sweet spot for a Lyrik. I would assume that would be a stiffer option if such an improve parameter is desired.

 

[jstuhlman]

If you want to try something different, I've run Fox 36s for years and have been happy with them. if you like the adjustability of the rtc3, then you'd want one with a grip2 damper. hopefully they've sorted the creaking/clicking CSU issues by now. I have a 2018 and it does do that some.

And while I've not personally run a Cane Creek helm, i have a buddy who's been on one for a few years and rides in the mountains 2-3 times/week and has been very happy with it.

Whatever you get, be sure the offset is the same as that of your current Pike.

 

[jonKranked]

Yes, I am perfectly satisfied with the fork. Left leg is showing a of of wear internally, as noted in annual maintenance/rebuild

why not just replace the internal parts that are worn? a 2015 fork isn't so old you wouldn't be able to get parts i'd think.

 

[jonKranked]

Whatever you get, be sure the offset is the same as that of your current Pike.

and try to stay close on the a2c.

new manitou stuff is also really good. and tends to be a little less expensive than other options.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

So
LYRIK Ultimate, MODEL ID FS-LYRK-ULT-C3, black if possible

https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/fs-lyrk-ult-c3

 

[Westy]

Now the fun in trying to find something.

 

[jstuhlman]

you'll also want to doublecheck your hub spacing. it will still be 15mm but most new forks are 110 boost, which i assume your current front hub is not.

 

[jonKranked]

you'll also want to doublecheck your hub spacing. it will still be 15mm but most new forks are 110 boost, which i assume your current front hub is not.

should note here: non-boost front hubs can be used in boost spaced forks, just takes a 5mm rotor spacer.

boost hubs will NOT work in non-boost forks.

 

[sunringlerider]

I’m a fork slut. And I’ve ridden them all just about. With the above comments you can’t go wrong with a Lyrik. I am currently on a Helm and I really do enjoy it. Personal preference I I did like the lyrik over the 36

 

[iRider]

What about a Manitou Mattoc or Mezzer?

 

[StiHacka]

I'd get a slightly used RC2 36.

 

[6thElement]

I was on 150mm 27.5 Pike for many years on my old trail bike. New GG has a Lyrik, if weight does matter to you the Lyrik is nearly half a pound heavier. Unless you're smashing into rocky stuff at speed consider if you need the extra stiffness the weight brings.

As pointed out above you'll likely need a boost conversion for your front hub for your wheel to fit any new fork.

 

[StiHacka]

So
LYRIK Ultimate, MODEL ID FS-LYRK-ULT-C3, black if possible

https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/fs-lyrk-ult-c3

How about this? https://www.competitivecyclist.com/rockshox-lyrik-ultimate-27.5in-boost-fork-rsx009i

 

[johnbryanpeters]

How about this? https://www.competitivecyclist.com/rockshox-lyrik-ultimate-27.5in-boost-fork-rsx009i

Must be fine, TYVM!

 

[johnbryanpeters]

should note here: non-boost front hubs can be used in boost spaced forks, just takes a 5mm rotor spacer.

boost hubs will NOT work in non-boost forks.

Source of 5 mm rotor spacer(s)?

 

[jonKranked]

Source of 5 mm rotor spacer(s)?

Jenson carries them, Amazon. Your lbs may have some too. I know Problem Solvers makes one, about $20.

 

[StiHacka]

Source of 5 mm rotor spacer(s)?

What hub? Chances are, your hub can be converted with a different axle / endcaps and a bit of re-dishing.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

What hub? Chances are, your hub can be converted with a different axle / endcaps and a bit of re-dishing.

Stans 3.30 HD Disc with 15 mm end caps, ZH0005, 15 x 100 mm

 

[StiHacka]

Stans 3.30 HD Disc with 15 mm end caps, ZH0005, 15 x 100 mm

No such luck with the 3.30HD hub unfortunately. A kit like this one is likely your only option.
New Boost Hub Conversion Kit 15*100mm to 110mm Adapter Boost Fork US | eBay

 

[johnbryanpeters]

No such luck with the 3.30HD hub unfortunately. A kit like this one is likely your only option.
New Boost Hub Conversion Kit 15*100mm to 110mm Adapter Boost Fork US | eBay

Ordered, TYVM.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Shim kits arrived today, fork supposedly tomorrow.

 

[StiHacka]

Shim kits arrived today, fork supposedly tomorrow.

You might have two options with the kit, if I am not mistaken - either place both 5mm spacers on the drive side and re-dish the wheel, or use the 5mm spacers on both sides and also add the brake rotor spacer between the hub and the rotor, no re-dishing needed.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

You might have two options with the kit, if I am not mistaken - either place both 5mm spacers on the drive side and re-dish the wheel, or use the 5mm spacers on both sides and also add the brake rotor spacer between the hub and the rotor, no re-dishing needed.

Thanks. I will probably go with the disk spacer.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Now rooting around to download manuals for the 2020 Lyrik Ultimate.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

And managed to find detailed specifications, for which I needed the serial number:

Model designator (SF): Ultimate
Wheel size: 27.5"
Travel: 160mm
Damper type: Charger 2.1 RC2
Fork offset: 46mm (27.5")
Maxle included: Maxle Stealth
Color (FS): Gloss Black
E-bike Approved: E-bike Approved
Steerer: 1.5" Tapered
Axle: 15 x 110mm BOOST™
Axle to crown: 552mm
Brake type: (FD) Disc
Crown material: Forged, hollow aluminum
Upper crown type: n/a
Lower leg type: Magnesium
Upper tube finish: Fast Black
Upper tube type 35mm tapered wall aluminum
Damper adjust: Crown
Damping adjustments: External begin stroke rebound, low speed compensation, high speed compensation
Volume reducer: 2/5 Tokens
Spring: DebonAir
Spring rate: n/a
Maximum tire diameter: 732mm
Maximum tire width: 81mm
Maximum rotor size: 220mm
Minimum rotor size: 180mm
Fender compatibility: n/a
Crown OD: 59mm
Weight: 2003gm

 

[6thElement]

Presume you got that from here:

RockShox Setup Guide | SRAM

trailhead.rockshox.com

The starting air pressure it gives you likely presumes you huck rampage lines every ride - it's been like that for both my recent forks.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Presume you got that from here:

RockShox Setup Guide | SRAM

trailhead.rockshox.com

The starting air pressure it gives you likely presumes you huck rampage lines every ride - it's been like that for both my recent forks.

No, didn't know about that page, thanks.

 

[6thElement]

No, didn't know about that page, thanks.

View attachment 170315

I'd probably try with 5psi less than that, 2 clicks LSC from open, 1 click hsc from open and try the 9 clicks from closed for rebound.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Removed Solo fork from bike.

Removed Cane Creek crown race from fork. Need to figure out how to press it onto the new fork steerer without destroying anything.

Steerer length on old fork was cut to 205mm.

Weight of solo fork 1.87 kg with Maxle, 2.78 kg without, so Maxle's roughly 900g.

 

[6thElement]

Weight of solo fork 1.87 kg with Maxle, 2.78 kg without, so Maxle's roughly 900g.

That's @stoney level maths there.

No way a maxle is 900g unless you're using a cast iron one in a 30mm variant

 

[johnbryanpeters]

You like 78g better?

 

[johnbryanpeters]

So all I need to dig out right now is a star nut and some courage.

 

[6thElement]

So all I need to dig out right now is a star nut and some courage.

New fork didn't come with a new star fangled?

If you're going to try and re-use the old one you need to push it down and out the bottom of the old steerer. Personally for the couple of $ they cost I'd pick up a new one.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

New fork didn't come with a new star fangled?

If you're going to try and re-use the old one you need to push it down and out the bottom of the old steerer. Personally for the couple of $ they cost I'd pick up a new one.

The fork did not come with a star nut and I wouldn't use an old one. I'm sure that I have one in one of my parts piles. If not, I'll purchase one.

 

[canadmos]

I used a plastic pipe from a shop vac to push on the race.

Anything like that will do as long as you don't push it on crooked.

Or take it to a shop to have them slam it on in twenty seconds (and push the star nut in straight).