I actually figured this all out and did it a while ago, then changed my mind about running pegs on a 26. Now I'm itchin to grind something so they might go on anyways.
There's kind of a bit of work to do and the set up, in my opinion, is a tad heavy. But there are things to do to even it out a bit. This for a MARZ axle, don't have any other brands around to mess with, but feel free to mail me yours and I'll see if I can not mess it up for ya!
Here we go...
What you need: a 37/64ths drill bit(we've all got one of THOSE in the drillbit drawer!), a 16mmx1.50 tap(same drawer as the drillbit), a 16mm x 1.50 bolt atleast like 30mm in length, I wanted to be sure it had plenty of support, so mine are like 50mm long. I guess I'd suggest trying to be sure the threads go in past the clamp area of the fork. That should be plenty.
I had issues with trying to clamp the stupid axle without crushing it, scratching it or spinning it in the plastic vice clamps I bought JUST for the stupid axle..until it finally occurred to me to put it back in the damn bike, and bolt it down. I drilled one side out by hand. That's a little sketchy, but it tapped just fine. The other side I did at work on the lathe. That's the way to go if you have access.
The threads you'll be putting in are the same as the original, so the factory end bolt still works just fine. It DOES change the profile of the existing threads a bit, but nothing fits any differently in the end.
Now find the peg of your choice, one big enough to allow the round hex head to slip inside. You'll have to enlarge it somehow as the bolt is a 16mm. You'll also need to find/make a small washer to space the peg away from the fork leg, OR buff the peg down a little where it will hit, asuming the peg has enough material on it to do this. Would also prevent the peg from spinning if you get lucky with your peg size choice or research it a little.
You'll also need to remember what steel does when it couples with aluminum too long, so you may want to put some kind electrical grease or something in the threads to prevent corrosion/siezing. I don't really know. You'd have to check the bolt often if you did this, but it's prob a good idea anyway.
Ways to easily improve this setup: shorter bolt. Titanium bolt(good luck?), or buy a few 16mm x 1.50 nuts while you're ordering the bolts, lock them together on the bolt, pop it in a lathe, and drill the center out. Threaded shafts in a lathe don't hold so well. Can also spend a little cash and get some Ti pegs and then you basically only have the weight of the bolts to gripe about.
Good luck!
There's kind of a bit of work to do and the set up, in my opinion, is a tad heavy. But there are things to do to even it out a bit. This for a MARZ axle, don't have any other brands around to mess with, but feel free to mail me yours and I'll see if I can not mess it up for ya!
Here we go...
What you need: a 37/64ths drill bit(we've all got one of THOSE in the drillbit drawer!), a 16mmx1.50 tap(same drawer as the drillbit), a 16mm x 1.50 bolt atleast like 30mm in length, I wanted to be sure it had plenty of support, so mine are like 50mm long. I guess I'd suggest trying to be sure the threads go in past the clamp area of the fork. That should be plenty.
I had issues with trying to clamp the stupid axle without crushing it, scratching it or spinning it in the plastic vice clamps I bought JUST for the stupid axle..until it finally occurred to me to put it back in the damn bike, and bolt it down. I drilled one side out by hand. That's a little sketchy, but it tapped just fine. The other side I did at work on the lathe. That's the way to go if you have access.
The threads you'll be putting in are the same as the original, so the factory end bolt still works just fine. It DOES change the profile of the existing threads a bit, but nothing fits any differently in the end.
Now find the peg of your choice, one big enough to allow the round hex head to slip inside. You'll have to enlarge it somehow as the bolt is a 16mm. You'll also need to find/make a small washer to space the peg away from the fork leg, OR buff the peg down a little where it will hit, asuming the peg has enough material on it to do this. Would also prevent the peg from spinning if you get lucky with your peg size choice or research it a little.
You'll also need to remember what steel does when it couples with aluminum too long, so you may want to put some kind electrical grease or something in the threads to prevent corrosion/siezing. I don't really know. You'd have to check the bolt often if you did this, but it's prob a good idea anyway.
Ways to easily improve this setup: shorter bolt. Titanium bolt(good luck?), or buy a few 16mm x 1.50 nuts while you're ordering the bolts, lock them together on the bolt, pop it in a lathe, and drill the center out. Threaded shafts in a lathe don't hold so well. Can also spend a little cash and get some Ti pegs and then you basically only have the weight of the bolts to gripe about.
Good luck!
lthumbsdown:
