[mr_dove]

OK, I'm pretty new to the whole 20mm hub thing. I've seen it around but have pretty much ignored it since it didn't apply to me at the time.

Now, I'm planning on having a 20mm fork on my new bike (when i build it) and I'd like to learn a bit about the whole 20mm standard (if it is standardized).

I've seen various different names for 20mm products. I've seen QR20, QR20+, Tullio and just 20mm. Are these just different names for the same interchangable standard? Or are they all exclusive and proprietary?

Is stiffness the only benefit to the 20mm standard?

Do I need to get a specific hub type when going 20mm or are all 20mm hubs compatable with all 20mm forks?

What's the cheapest way to start out with 20mm
1. purchase new 20mm hub and have it re-laced on existing wheel? If so, what's the cheapest 20mm hub?
2. purchase single front wheel w/ 20mm hub (ebay has one for $120 now)
3. purchase an entire new wheelset?
4. Other

Any other info that I should be aware of before going for this?

 

[Tweek]

The QR20, QR20+, Tullio are all the same standard 20mm axles, just Marzocchi's and RockShox' method of getting the wheel on and off. There's nothing quick about the Marz QR20. The Tullio's a nice piece o' work -- a little "crank" slides out of the axle so you can thread it in and out of the Psylo fork.

Bear in mind that there are other through-axle types (like Manitou's) that don't match the std 20mm. I use Hope Bulbs for both of my 20mm forks and I'm quite happy with them. If you're going to be doing any serious downhill, you may want something beefier.

As far as what I'd do to start out, just build a new wheel from the ground up. The flange size will probably be different from your existing hub, so you'll need different spoke lengths. A hand-built wheel will be stronger than any other machine built/ordered wheel. If you're not comfortable building your own, take it to someone you know and trust to build it for you.

Good luck.

 

[Echo]

 

[SpasticJack]

How is a Manitou 20mm setup non-standard? I have 2 of their forks (X-vert Carbon and Supernova) and have no issues using standard 20mm hubs. I'm running King hubs and they tend to be about as standardized as it gets.

 

[powderboy]

Yeah, what makes the Manitou 20mm's different? Not that I have a Manitou, but I'm thinking of getting one the new Sherman Breakout forks...

 

[Tweek]

Hold on now, monkeys. I said that some of Manitou's through axles didn't match the 20mm standard. Not that their 20mm was different from everyone elses. The Sherman uses a hex lock through axle. I also believe there's other manufacturers that use non standard through axles and/or specific hubs as well, but I can't think of which right now.

 

[powderboy]

Hold on now, monkeys. I said that some of Manitou's through axles didn't match the 20mm standard. Not that their 20mm was different from everyone elses. The Sherman uses a hex lock through axle. I also believe there's other manufacturers that use non standard through axles and/or specific hubs as well, but I can't think of which right now.

So, you were referring to the axle only and how it attaches to the forks? Those differ for sure (QR20, Tullio, hex or clamp), but are there different front hub axle widths?

I didn't realize that there were different rear hub widths until I had a Norco Team DH with a 150mm rear hub width as opposed to the 135mm standard width.

There are different rear hub widths/spacing for rear hubs, but do all 20mm front hubs have the same spacing?

 

[SpasticJack]

The way the axle is clamped in the fork has nothing to do with the 20mm x 110mm spacing. The Sherman uses the same axle technology as the Dorado and will work with any std. 20mm hub. The only non-std. 20mm format that I know of is the Marz 20mm qr20 hub which has an integrated axle.

 

[powderboy]

.

The only non-std. 20mm format that I know of is the Marz 20mm qr20 hub which has an integrated axle.

For 2002 (maybe 2001), the QR20 hub and axle aren't integrated anymore. And, I believe all you needed in the past was an allen wrench to unlock the axle.

 

[Tweek]

Then what's the deal with the Manitou hex axle? How does that work and remain a standard 20mm?

Oh yeah, BTW it was the Mr. Dirt with the 17mm axle I was trying to think of before.

 

[powderboy]

It looks like the hex nut is only on the right side of the fork. The left side is a circular nut where you can tighten it.

I'm just guessing until I actually see it at Interbike. Here's a picture of the left side of the Sherman Breakout

Manitou Sherman Info

 

[Tweek]

No, I don't think that's what the deal is. You're right that its a hex nut that threads into the axle to secure it. Here's the explanation from Mountain Bike mag:
<< Thru-axle forks get Manitou's Hex-Lock thru-axle, first developed for the Dorado inverted DH fork. The axle and dropout interface are six sided, to add additional security against any twisting.>>

Hope that clears things up.

 

[powderboy]

Well... I guess I'll find out for sure at Interbike... Viva Las Vegas!

One thing's for sure... I want a Sherman Breakout!!!

 

[Brian HCM#1]

First off what fork? If you are building a new bike build a new wheel unless your rims are in very good shape. What rims do you currently have?

 

[SpasticJack]

The way the Hex axle works is very trick. One side has a smaller hex profile than the other, thus fitting through the hub. The small end also has a threaded hole and an end cap that allows you to tighten the preload on the hub. You lock the whole thing down with the pinch bolts on the front of the legs. The part of the axle between the legs where the hub goes looks like any other 20mm axle.

 

[dwnwrd]

I'm about to build a new bike, and I don't think I need a 20mm. But what will I be missing?

I'm going to build a Bullit, I'm not yet sure what hubs or rims yet, going to run discs and I'm pondering Mavic F519. 20mm is supposed to make the fork stiffer and more responsive to steering, but unless you have a fork made from aluminum foil I can't imagine how you could notice a difference.

I think I'm going to get a Marz Z.1 Freeride.

 

[powderboy]

Believe me, it makes a HUGE difference. I noticed so much flex in my forks prior to going 20mm last year. Since then, it simply tracks straight and doesn't wander in hard turns.

Granted, the Z1 Freeride would be stiff, but if you ride hard, you'll notice a much stiffer ride with a thru-axle.

I've never ridden the Fox Forx, but they claim they are just as stiff without the thru-axle. I'm not so sure about that.

I would NEVER own a non-20mm fork again.