[gmac]

I wonder if I install my 20mm axle correctly.

What I do:

Tighten fork bolts down on the fixed side of the axle.
Tighten the axle's threaded end.
Tighten fork bolts on thread side of axle.

Sound right ?

Also, does it matter which way I orient the axles threaded cap ? drive side or non ?

 

[Wumpus]

I don't know if those work the same as a QR20, but I tighten the axle first then the fork clamps.

 

[El Caballo]

I'm with wumpus on this one. Tighten the axle, then tighten the clamp bolts.

 

[gmac]

You guys are right. I got the official word by downloading a tech manual from Marzocchi. Seems odd to me. Too simple I guess. Been doing it wrong for quite some time now.

 

[lovebunny]

os there a special way to do it for shivers? i heard theres sposed to be a gap between the axle and the dropout. is this true

 

[sanjuro]

Shivers need to have the threaded axle piece tightened up to the left lower first. Then, tighten the 2 left lower axle clamp bolts (it's real important on any marzocchi's to tighten both bolts incrementally too bcz rumors have it that 888's may even break if you don't). So, once you have the axle tightened and then, the left lower axle clamp bolts tightened, you are supposed to bounce the front up/down to get the right one positioned correctly. Then, you tighten the 2 right axle clamp bolts incrementally also. Whether there is a gap or not isn't important but the right lower being where it wants to be is really important. Supposedly, it helps the fork move smoothly up and down and isn't going to wear out your inner bushings.
That's just the theory that I heard and I believe it to be correct. Seems like alot of hassle but it's for a good cause.

With the old QR20 bolts, the key is to use the long end of the L-shaped allen keys to tighten, so you cannot overtorque it. I, as many mechanics, have broken the bolt with just slightly too much pressure.

 

[lovebunny]

the shiver doesnt have qr20 bud

 

[lovebunny]

oh and thats the way i do it anyways so i guess im good