How do they hold up for you?
40lb post! DH/FR Rigs around the 40lb mark! tips, pics, specs
- Thread starter bullcrew
- Start date
Haven't had any major issues. I'm a bigger guy so I run high pressure in them and had only one flat last year. I'm planning on running a front sigle ply Minion tire this year to see how it goes. It really is amazing how much weight you can lose by changing tires.
Sold the F150 and Bronco and bought the 4 door Jeep Rubicon opn Saturday. Ive got lots of goodies on the way for it. I already have the new 37" BFG KM2s waiting for the lift. It drives just as good as the F150 on the Hwy. Its pretty nice actually.
Ribs are still making tons of noise but the pain in mostly gone.
The Socom rides so nice I cant believe it. I cant believe it dropped almost 4 lbs changing wheels and tires and Im still running 2 ply DH tires.
Finally got a chance to build up my Sunday, 39.5 Lbs according to our shop's digital scale.
FRAMESIZE : Small
BIKE WEIGHT: 39.5 Lbs
FORK: Fox 40RC2
SHOCK: Fox Vanilla R with Ti 350# Spring
Brakes: Juicy Carbon Front and Rear, 203mm front, 160mm rear
Rims: Mavic 729 Front / Alexris Supra-BH Rear
Hubs: Chris King ISO 20mm front / Formula 150mm x 12mm rear
Tires: Maxxi Minion Fronts (front and rear)
Tubes: Standard 26" front / Puncture-resistant 26" rear
Shifter: SRAM X.0
Derailleur: SRAM X.0
Cogset: SRAM X.0 with 9 speed 12-26T
Cranks and BB: FSA Maximus 165mm
Ring: 36T Envy
Guide: E13 SRS
Seatpost: Thompson Elite 30.0
Seat: Selle San MArco Ponza
Grips: ODI Lock-on
Stem: Truvative Holzfeller 31.8mm x 40mm long with 25.4 shims
Handlebar: Easton Monkey Lite CNT, 28" wide
Front tire: 24.5 psi
Rear tire: 26.0 psi
FOX VANILLA R:
9.5" x 3.00" Stroke
SPRING: 350 LB Ti
PRELOAD - 1 turn (To achieve 0.9" shock sag)
REBOUND: 4 clicks
2007 FOX 40RC2:
Travel: 8" setting
Oil: Lube bath Dura-Lube
High Speed Compression: 0 Clicks from full out
Low Speed Compression: 0 Clicks from full out
Rebound: 6 clicks from Full out
Preload: 0 clicks from full out
2007 IRON HORSE SUNDAY FRAME
Headangle: 64.75 degrees
BB Height: 14.00"
Chainstay length: 17.25"
Fore Seat to Handlebar: 16.00"
Seatpost with Seat Angle: -2 degrees
Wheelbase: 44.50"
Front Axle to Handlebar: 31.25"
BB to Topseat: 22"
FRAMESIZE : Small
BIKE WEIGHT: 39.5 Lbs
FORK: Fox 40RC2
SHOCK: Fox Vanilla R with Ti 350# Spring
Brakes: Juicy Carbon Front and Rear, 203mm front, 160mm rear
Rims: Mavic 729 Front / Alexris Supra-BH Rear
Hubs: Chris King ISO 20mm front / Formula 150mm x 12mm rear
Tires: Maxxi Minion Fronts (front and rear)
Tubes: Standard 26" front / Puncture-resistant 26" rear
Shifter: SRAM X.0
Derailleur: SRAM X.0
Cogset: SRAM X.0 with 9 speed 12-26T
Cranks and BB: FSA Maximus 165mm
Ring: 36T Envy
Guide: E13 SRS
Seatpost: Thompson Elite 30.0
Seat: Selle San MArco Ponza
Grips: ODI Lock-on
Stem: Truvative Holzfeller 31.8mm x 40mm long with 25.4 shims
Handlebar: Easton Monkey Lite CNT, 28" wide
Front tire: 24.5 psi
Rear tire: 26.0 psi
FOX VANILLA R:
9.5" x 3.00" Stroke
SPRING: 350 LB Ti
PRELOAD - 1 turn (To achieve 0.9" shock sag)
REBOUND: 4 clicks
2007 FOX 40RC2:
Travel: 8" setting
Oil: Lube bath Dura-Lube
High Speed Compression: 0 Clicks from full out
Low Speed Compression: 0 Clicks from full out
Rebound: 6 clicks from Full out
Preload: 0 clicks from full out
2007 IRON HORSE SUNDAY FRAME
Headangle: 64.75 degrees
BB Height: 14.00"
Chainstay length: 17.25"
Fore Seat to Handlebar: 16.00"
Seatpost with Seat Angle: -2 degrees
Wheelbase: 44.50"
Front Axle to Handlebar: 31.25"
BB to Topseat: 22"
2007 FOX 40RC2:
Travel: 8" setting
Oil: Lube bath Dura-Lube
High Speed Compression: 0 Clicks from full out
Low Speed Compression: 0 Clicks from full out
Rebound: 6 clicks from Full out
Preload: 0 clicks from full out
Why get a RC2 and then dial it off, just get a R.
Or am I missing something.
Travel: 8" setting
Oil: Lube bath Dura-Lube
High Speed Compression: 0 Clicks from full out
Low Speed Compression: 0 Clicks from full out
Rebound: 6 clicks from Full out
Preload: 0 clicks from full out
Why get a RC2 and then dial it off, just get a R.
Or am I missing something.
I love that bike man looks sick. Thats a steel frame right?My SWD 216, around 40 depending on the setup.
Yup, SWD 216 DH. I have it set up for a trail-ish riding right now.
http://swdracing.com/
FRAMESIZE : Custom
FORK: Fox 40RC2
SHOCK: Fox DHX 5.0 550# Spring
Headset: King
Brakes: Juicy 7 Front and Rear, 203mm Rotors
Rims: Syncros DPS 32
Hubs: Hadley 20mm front / Hadley 150mm x 12mm rear
Tires: Maxxi Minion R Front / Minion R Rear (setup ghetto tubeless)
Shifter: SRAM X.0
Derailleur: SRAM X.9 Mid
Cogset: SRAM 990
Cranks and BB: XT
Ring: 38T E.13 Guide Ring
Guide: Gamut P40
Seatpost: Bontranger Select 29.2
Seat: WTB
Grips: Sunline Thin
Stem: Thomson 25.4
Handlebar: Easton, 27" wide
http://swdracing.com/
FRAMESIZE : Custom
FORK: Fox 40RC2
SHOCK: Fox DHX 5.0 550# Spring
Headset: King
Brakes: Juicy 7 Front and Rear, 203mm Rotors
Rims: Syncros DPS 32
Hubs: Hadley 20mm front / Hadley 150mm x 12mm rear
Tires: Maxxi Minion R Front / Minion R Rear (setup ghetto tubeless)
Shifter: SRAM X.0
Derailleur: SRAM X.9 Mid
Cogset: SRAM 990
Cranks and BB: XT
Ring: 38T E.13 Guide Ring
Guide: Gamut P40
Seatpost: Bontranger Select 29.2
Seat: WTB
Grips: Sunline Thin
Stem: Thomson 25.4
Handlebar: Easton, 27" wide
how much do those frames run retail?
depends on how you want it built.
I had custom geo, 150mm rear end, no guide tabs, no cable guides. and a custom tuned 08 Fox DHX 5.0 for under right around 1200, this was a while back , not positive about the pricing for the 08. But it is one of the best deals you can find.
The number off of the swd website goes right to Steve, the owner and he can answer any questions you need.
I had custom geo, 150mm rear end, no guide tabs, no cable guides. and a custom tuned 08 Fox DHX 5.0 for under right around 1200, this was a while back , not positive about the pricing for the 08. But it is one of the best deals you can find.
The number off of the swd website goes right to Steve, the owner and he can answer any questions you need.
Yep, mine works great! It's a SIGMA SPEEDMASTER 7000.
This will be second bike it's running on.
I got a really good deal on the RC2.
Pre-winter storm-afterwork ride on my stupid light bike.
I am beginning to like this 37lbs setup...but I'm too fat for the bike's weight.
I am beginning to like this 37lbs setup...but I'm too fat for the bike's weight.
That looks like mine.
2007 Socom
boxxer team
dee-max
thomson stuff
e-13 blah blah blah...
sorry for the crappy camera phone pictures.
2007 Socom
boxxer team
dee-max
thomson stuff
e-13 blah blah blah...
sorry for the crappy camera phone pictures.
Man that socom is weak my oscar the garbage tazer is way sweeter
"i post big pictures"
41ish... i think. It does what i want it to.
When I ran mine with the SPV valved Evolver, the initial stroke was harsh. You really have to load the suspension prior to hitting med to big hits or the bike will bounce around/deflect. I just had my evolver revalved and basically act like an air sprung Revox and it has been running well. So I am liking the air shock this time around. I may throw in my Revox back when the Ti spring I need gets back in stock. Having a steel coil on a revox just makes my left eye twitch.
Specs:
Izimu 07 small
DHX5 (Revox as alternative) + 350 Ti spring
Boxxer Team w/ solo air upgrade and only 1 comp shim in the stack.
Hone 170 cranks w/ inserts, 40T truvativ cog, Time Z pedals, Identiti CDR guide. No bashguard.
Syncros derived full length seatpost, Funn saddle (CrMo, 330g)
Rear wheel: Hadley, MTX welded, DT spokes, Hi-roller 2.5 50a 2-ply. Syncros DH tube
Front wheel: ARC (Yeti) hub/rim (120g lighter than my Hadley/MTX and very strong), Syncros BHT-2 2.7 yes it's BIG. Maxxis DH tube.
Controls: Vice OS 50mm stem, Green ever-beeping frog, Titec Pluto carbon 690mm riser bar, Magura Louise BAT 07 carbon levers, XO carbon shifter. Looks killer to have so much carbon up there.
Brakes: Louise 07 with 203mm Ventidiscs, standard cables
Pictures are without solo air and Ti spring - coming soon. Now it is at 40.25lb, comes down to approx. 39lb afterwards, frog included. I don't plan using light tubes, neither tubeless setups, so I think I'm done. My aim was comfort and durability. Comfort at the first place, hence solo air, shim stack tuning and carbon bars w/ ESI foam grips - to minimize vibrations and resulting finger fatigue which has been my greatest issue during last season. Now if only some snow could fall to cover those fields of mud I see everywhere, so my new cannibal can start to roll over it.
Izimu 07 small
DHX5 (Revox as alternative) + 350 Ti spring
Boxxer Team w/ solo air upgrade and only 1 comp shim in the stack.
Hone 170 cranks w/ inserts, 40T truvativ cog, Time Z pedals, Identiti CDR guide. No bashguard.
Syncros derived full length seatpost, Funn saddle (CrMo, 330g)
Rear wheel: Hadley, MTX welded, DT spokes, Hi-roller 2.5 50a 2-ply. Syncros DH tube
Front wheel: ARC (Yeti) hub/rim (120g lighter than my Hadley/MTX and very strong), Syncros BHT-2 2.7 yes it's BIG. Maxxis DH tube.
Controls: Vice OS 50mm stem, Green ever-beeping frog, Titec Pluto carbon 690mm riser bar, Magura Louise BAT 07 carbon levers, XO carbon shifter. Looks killer to have so much carbon up there.
Brakes: Louise 07 with 203mm Ventidiscs, standard cables
Pictures are without solo air and Ti spring - coming soon. Now it is at 40.25lb, comes down to approx. 39lb afterwards, frog included. I don't plan using light tubes, neither tubeless setups, so I think I'm done. My aim was comfort and durability. Comfort at the first place, hence solo air, shim stack tuning and carbon bars w/ ESI foam grips - to minimize vibrations and resulting finger fatigue which has been my greatest issue during last season. Now if only some snow could fall to cover those fields of mud I see everywhere, so my new cannibal can start to roll over it.
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Sorry but I don't see how your build is built on comfort or durability. Foam grips are not comfortable on DH bikes and are scary enough on an XC bike, carbon bars / levers aren't durable parts, no bash guard, old school sram der, no chain-guide protection from the looks of it, etc. Those crankarms look like 175mm as well to me...
just what i was thinking, clearly a weight savings oriented bike, but that's cool, just don't say it was built for "comfort and durability" when it's not.
its obviously a small/light rider, i dont see a problem with the parts, some are just odd, nothing out of the ordinary
The carbon bar serves no weight saving purpose. You can easily find a 20-30g heavier alloy bar. However, carbon bars can damp vibrations and thus add comfort to my fingers. BTW what kind of bar does the new M6 use? And how many broken Lahars have you seen? I am not that bad on my equipment anyway.
Foam grips serve the same purpose, as already mentioned. Yes they are odd and yes I've got two sets of odi lockons as a backup if these disappoint.
What is bad about X7 mech? It's a mid-cage. Just because there is a X9 or X0 and you like it, I won't trash my old X7 before it actually dies. And mechs like to die on my DH rigs. Also my budget is limited, you know.
Believe or not, I have never been clipping my chainrings, maybe once-twice in a season. I've got a backup bashguard if I really need it. The absence of it gives me some extra clearance, which is just what I need. Further I can't see how you'd protect that chain device? I doubt it can actually get smashed. It is too far behind the chainring.
Finally, the cranks. I am sorry for crappy resized pix, RM won't let me post bigger ones. I still believe they are 170s though.
Foam grips serve the same purpose, as already mentioned. Yes they are odd and yes I've got two sets of odi lockons as a backup if these disappoint.
I never bent an alloy brake lever. I never have them tightened so they could not rotate around.
What is bad about X7 mech? It's a mid-cage. Just because there is a X9 or X0 and you like it, I won't trash my old X7 before it actually dies. And mechs like to die on my DH rigs. Also my budget is limited, you know.
Believe or not, I have never been clipping my chainrings, maybe once-twice in a season. I've got a backup bashguard if I really need it. The absence of it gives me some extra clearance, which is just what I need. Further I can't see how you'd protect that chain device? I doubt it can actually get smashed. It is too far behind the chainring.
Finally, the cranks. I am sorry for crappy resized pix, RM won't let me post bigger ones. I still believe they are 170s though.
The carbon bar serves no weight saving purpose. You can easily find a 20-30g heavier alloy bar. However, carbon bars can damp vibrations and thus add comfort to my fingers. BTW what kind of bar does the new M6 use? And how many broken Lahars have you seen? I am not that bad on my equipment anyway.
Foam grips serve the same purpose, as already mentioned. Yes they are odd and yes I've got two sets of odi lockons as a backup if these disappoint.
What is bad about X7 mech? It's a mid-cage. Just because there is a X9 or X0 and you like it, I won't trash my old X7 before it actually dies. And mechs like to die on my DH rigs. Also my budget is limited, you know.
Believe or not, I have never been clipping my chainrings, maybe once-twice in a season. I've got a backup bashguard if I really need it. The absence of it gives me some extra clearance, which is just what I need. Further I can't see how you'd protect that chain device? I doubt it can actually get smashed. It is too far behind the chainring.
Finally, the cranks. I am sorry for crappy resized pix, RM won't let me post bigger ones. I still believe they are 170s though.
Foam grips serve the same purpose, as already mentioned. Yes they are odd and yes I've got two sets of odi lockons as a backup if these disappoint.
I never bent an alloy brake lever. I never have them tightened so they could not rotate around.
What is bad about X7 mech? It's a mid-cage. Just because there is a X9 or X0 and you like it, I won't trash my old X7 before it actually dies. And mechs like to die on my DH rigs. Also my budget is limited, you know.
Believe or not, I have never been clipping my chainrings, maybe once-twice in a season. I've got a backup bashguard if I really need it. The absence of it gives me some extra clearance, which is just what I need. Further I can't see how you'd protect that chain device? I doubt it can actually get smashed. It is too far behind the chainring.
Finally, the cranks. I am sorry for crappy resized pix, RM won't let me post bigger ones. I still believe they are 170s though.
nice double post.
and that thing about the bars and grips is total bullsh!t. its like saying the thing of the ti spring being plusher. maybe thr bar will drain vibration, but it would be so small that you wouldnt be able to tell the differnece.
and that thing about the bars and grips is total bullsh!t. its like saying the thing of the ti spring being plusher. maybe thr bar will drain vibration, but it would be so small that you wouldnt be able to tell the differnece.
You must have been riding a lot of carbon bars in the past to be so sure about your statement.
Seriously, what setup changes would you do to reduce finger fatigue? Don't tell me exercise and nutrition will fix everyhing, I know my fingers better than you.
Seriously, what setup changes would you do to reduce finger fatigue? Don't tell me exercise and nutrition will fix everyhing, I know my fingers better than you.
then listen to norbar.
and i think i would know if carbon bars make the difference. weeks of whistler each summer give me a good hint
and if you ride enough your fingers shouldnt get sore anymore, mine dont riding 10 hour days at whistler.
thays with an alloy bar and ODI grips as well
That finger fatigue can be a result of too thin grips. Same thing can be experienced in racket sports (tennis etc.). If I would use ruffians my fingers would be sore in no time!
Congrats. Carbon bars are not durable though and comparing them to a Lahr is a far stretch as they're not the same ballpark. Using the "vibrations" is a pretty weak benefit for dh imo. Additionally, the M6 doesn't come with a handlebar so i have no idea what you're trying to say.
If foam grips work for you, continue using them. They provide little to no padding (not comfortable), and they're most likely part of the problem you're having with your hands hurting. Thin useless foam grips that can slip and offer minimal grip aren't high up on on my list for a DH bike, especially to try and save a few grams. In comparison to ODI's, foam grips are not comfortable nor are they durable. Have you ever ridden those foam grips in mud or water. I can see those things spinning already. Scary.
Has nothing to do with it being an X7. Those old sram derailleurs left much to be desired. The knuckle on those derailleurs are prone to breaking easily.
If it works for you keep using it, that isn't a durable setup though by most standards.
Its a nice build, but you could build a lot more durable and "comfortable" Izimu for that same weight is all. If you just posted your bike and posted its weight, no problem but those claims are a bit ludacris.
well said jason
i would thrust an (easton) carbon bar with my life any day.
if you design a carbon part, its designed to a fatigue requirement. if you design an aluminium part, its designed to a strength requirement. of course taking into account that this is how a part is actually (and should be) designed, the carbon part will always be much stronger then what its needed to be, just how it works.
and i have felt the difference in aluminium bars and carbon bars. isn't a huge difference i must say, but there it. i am very sensitive to crap like that tho. i can feel a 2psi difference in my tubeless tires, mainly coz i am a light rider. with tubed tires you dont feel it so much.
Dang Miuan!!
Sorry everyone is coming down on you. Nothing really wrong with your build. Don't worry about you carbon bars, but comfort really only comes in to factor with carbon bars when riding a hardtail, especially one with a rigid fork. The small amount of damping you get from the carbon over aluminum bar is easily overwhelmed by your 8+ inches of suspension.
The guys bashing your foam grips are doing it for the wrong reason. To those of you pointing out the problem of "generic" foam grips, he's not running those. He has ESI silicone foam grips. Having used them myself, I can tell you, they absolutely do not slip on the bars, easily as safe and secure as ODI's if not more so. They are also quite thick and are in fact very comfortable and are unaffected buy getting wet. They also comform to your grip over time, so you basically get a custom fit. Now, with all that said. I finally gave up on them. Reason being? They just felt "slippery" not sure why. I hoped they would feel more secure as they "molded" to my hand. But they never did. The weird thing is, I never slipped a hand but always had a insecure feeling with them. If it wasn't for that, I would still be running them, because they where definitely more comfortable then any other grips out there.
Sorry everyone is coming down on you. Nothing really wrong with your build. Don't worry about you carbon bars, but comfort really only comes in to factor with carbon bars when riding a hardtail, especially one with a rigid fork. The small amount of damping you get from the carbon over aluminum bar is easily overwhelmed by your 8+ inches of suspension.
The guys bashing your foam grips are doing it for the wrong reason. To those of you pointing out the problem of "generic" foam grips, he's not running those. He has ESI silicone foam grips. Having used them myself, I can tell you, they absolutely do not slip on the bars, easily as safe and secure as ODI's if not more so. They are also quite thick and are in fact very comfortable and are unaffected buy getting wet. They also comform to your grip over time, so you basically get a custom fit. Now, with all that said. I finally gave up on them. Reason being? They just felt "slippery" not sure why. I hoped they would feel more secure as they "molded" to my hand. But they never did. The weird thing is, I never slipped a hand but always had a insecure feeling with them. If it wasn't for that, I would still be running them, because they where definitely more comfortable then any other grips out there.
I've ran carbon bars as well before on just about every type of bike without any of them failing (all Easton's). I'm not doubting their strength by any means.
For piece of mind though I wouldn't recommend a carbon bar for DH knowing what can happen in a non perfect scenario (dings/shuttling/crashes/etc).
To tout a carbon bar as more reliable and more durable over say an Easton aluminum bar is a far stretch on a dh/fr bike imo. When a carbon bar fails, its not pretty.
i agree that when carbon bars fails its not going to be pretty.
the thing is that carbon bars (again referring to a well designed and made one) will be much stronger then an aluminium bar. because of that, there is less chance that a carbon bar fails.
as for the dings or scratches, its been said over and over again, a carbon bar isn't going to suddenly fail from scratches. whats going to kill them is someone over tightening the clamp bolts.
the thing is that carbon bars (again referring to a well designed and made one) will be much stronger then an aluminium bar. because of that, there is less chance that a carbon bar fails.
as for the dings or scratches, its been said over and over again, a carbon bar isn't going to suddenly fail from scratches. whats going to kill them is someone over tightening the clamp bolts.
i run the esi grips this summer & liked them. grippy, never budged regardless of conditions, and are super light (about 60g lighter than odi lock ons). the smooth surface feels a bit different (i usually run ruffians), but they get the job done. not as durable as odi's, however.