Not when using the Stan rims. The yellow stans tape is the weight weenie solution. I've had 0 luck using the yellow tape on non stan rims though. Might be something to do with rim deepness.good write up!
Do you not need to run the stans rubber rim strip with the stans rims?
I'm with you. There's no way that my bike will ever be under 40. it's probably around 47 actually. I'm about 214 without any gear. With everything on, i'm probably about 230. Instead of shaving weight off my bike by spending a grip of $$, i should probably try shaving a bit of weight off my body first. Shave a bit of weight off the body, put on a little more muscle, then learn how to man handle my bike down the hills. If i had the lightest tubes, tires, rims, springs, and seat..........I'd still be just about as slow.Still I don't see why light guys brag about how ligt they can go. I'm 155 and I'd rather go 10lb of muscle up than 2lb of bike down.
nice, i saw they just took a 1st at wc on one of those.Sub 38lbs.....
I considered that, but had already ordered the SS hub. The Stylo cranks didn't help much either keeping the best chainline. I decided I chose those parts, better keep them. The chainline is not bad at all: no rubbing on the bashguard, no funny noises or grinding, and no issues shifting with the setup I have. The drivetrain might wear funny, but that cassette is already a year old.You would be way better off with that 6 speed stack moved inboard rather than outboard (and you can do it as you are running a 12 rather than an 11). As it sits now, your chainline is seriously f'ed.
With the exception being what is likely a mis-aligned frameHm, my 9.5" travel M3 is going to be sitting right at 40# with no p*ssy parts on it once I put the new fork on.
M3/CCDB/ti spring, '07 888 RC2X WC, (older) Saint cranks, Maxxis 2plys, 8" brakes blah blah blah
Good enough for me, especially since I didn't really TRY to go superlight on it.
47 is overkill. You can have easily 37-40lb bike that will withstand any kind of abuse. I'm right now at 39-40lb with very heavy tires and hubs that weight 700g(both not single), plus easton havoc seatopost and 888rc2x and don't have one fragile part on my bike. If you have the cash I can see how you can go even around 36lb with the same strength but XC parts and 33-34lb bikes are simply not meant for dh.I'm with you. There's no way that my bike will ever be under 40. it's probably around 47 actually. I'm about 214 without any gear. With everything on, i'm probably about 230. Instead of shaving weight off my bike by spending a grip of $$, i should probably try shaving a bit of weight off my body first. Shave a bit of weight off the body, put on a little more muscle, then learn how to man handle my bike down the hills. If i had the lightest tubes, tires, rims, springs, and seat..........I'd still be just about as slow.
A lighter bike might even make me more tired by the end of a run. I'd be working that thing all over the trail thinking that i'm faster than way instead of just picking a line and going through it like i normally do.
you aren't one to talk about size Chubbywumba.says the guy with the midget sized Legend...
i'm not sure i follow this reference. do you have a photo to illustrate?Chubbywumba.
maybe it's this one, although I'm pretty sure they'er talking about something elseis it this one?
[CLAIM] this Chumba F5 is <39lbs [/CLAIM]
Hey, thanks for putting the time in for that write up. How you liking the Stylos. if you don't mind me asking?Spreadsheet
I know that I made several compromises regarding durability or even function with this build. My riding style is typical for BC riders: I ride jumps, rock gardens, steep descents, fast singletrack, sketchy lines, tough climbs, and high speed trails. I don't usually shy away from any line if I'm having a decent day of riding but I know that coming up short or erring in judgment will cost me dearly. This will be more so with a lighter build but that is the price of being a gear freak and a weight weenie. Happy Trails!
...and with a regular Hope Pro 2 and a Dura Ace 11-21 another 100g :biggrin:OBB,
Why didnt you use ti Wellgos and a Blackspire Lite God Bash? Could of lost another 100g.
I like them on my DJ bike, and on my old 4X bike. No time on the DH bike so far.Hey, thanks for putting the time in for that write up. How you liking the Stylos. if you don't mind me asking?
Didn't feel like spending the extra money yet. I may get a set of Ti Wellgos sometime this year. The Bash I have now is about 10 grams heavier than the actual weight of the Blackspire bash and was free.OBB,
Why didnt you use ti Wellgos and a Blackspire Lite God Bash? Could of lost another 100g.
Yeah, I'm kicking myself a bit for not getting a regular Pro2. Would have been lighter and corrected the chainline. I like the 26T cog as a minimum for riding as I still pedal this bike around a bit. The Dura Ace combo would have saved me a negligible amount of weight at a high cost. The XTR cassette I had lying around....and with a regular Hope Pro 2 and a Dura Ace 11-21 another 100g :biggrin:
awww it's so wee and cute..So I guess I'll throw my hat into the mix.
Comes in at a under 37lbs with a steel spring and dual ply tires.
preproduction 2009 Banshee Legend Mk 1 (small 15")
I'm a big fan of less gears on DH bikes and run less gears on my DH bike too (not for weight savings) but I'm curious as to your choice of sprockets, it seems like you have missed how gear ratios actually work, By removing the 16T sprocket you've left a huge gap in ratios between the 14 - 18T right where it matters most for a DH bike (although, if it works for you, fair enough)The 6spd cassette is an XTR cassette. I removed the top two cogs which share a common carrier, and the 16T cog that was between the 18T and 14T. Using an XTR cassette and getting a consistent decrease in cog size is really only possible with the 12-34 or 12-32 cogsets. The 11-34s have cog combinations that leave you with big gaps in the ratios.
If I had a true DH bike, I would have ran the bottom 6 cogs from a Dura Ace cassette. This Demo will get ridden everywhere at some point, so having a spread in gears was best for me. I'm not overly pleased with the jump from the 14T to the 18T cogs, but I had to settle as I already owned the cassette and had to make due.I'm a big fan of less gears on DH bikes and run less gears on my DH bike too (not for weight savings) but I'm curious as to your choice of sprockets, it seems like you have missed how gear ratios actually work, By removing the 16T sprocket you've left a huge gap in ratios between the 14 - 18T right where it matters most for a DH bike (although, if it works for you, fair enough)
Guessing your sprockets are 12, 14, 18, 20, 23, 26? looking at sprocket teeth No.s the jumps in sprocket size seem even but with the 36T ring that doesn't give very even jumps in gear ratio at all. IMO you'd be better dropping the 23T and keeping the 16T in there.. it's not like you'll ever use 36/23 on a DH track (even on tracks with short uphill sections) and your 26T is only there for climbing anyway so it's not like you need a super smooth shift onto it.
You'll also probably save a gram or too
NEW BOXXER SWEEEET!I know, I know SP tires...