[kidwoo]

I take full credit for the feel of hacktastic's fork.


And vitox and renegade should take full credit for the feel of my fork.

I'm using an 07 ata as well and did all of the mods listed above (except for the dial lock since I run mine at 7").

Considering how easy it is, and how much heavier the 08 is, I'd second that decision. The extra girth isn't needed, the fork is plenty stiff and once you've got a clue on how it works, is pretty much infinitely tuneable. Yeah the 888 is a little heavier but it's stiffer and once dialed, really doesn't require a whole lot of maintenence outside of the occasional oil change. And even that is light years better on the fouling time on oil than the older zokes.

 

[big-ted]

Kidwoo, you mention in the thread above that yours suffered from popping, where the cartridge was sticking. Was this a bi-product of you running it at 170mm? People on MTBR are complaining that some had leaking ATA caps also. This really doesn't sound like a fork I want to get involved with...

I just found out no-one can sort out a brake mount for me in time, so I'm going to have to pick up new brakes, this exactly one week after I spent $150 stocking up on brake pads. I swear these things know when f*cking up can cause you the biggest pain in the ass...

 

[kidwoo]

Kidwoo, you mention in the thread above that yours suffered from popping, where the cartridge was sticking. Was this a bi-product of you running it at 170mm? People on MTBR are complaining that some had leaking ATA caps also. This really doesn't sound like a fork I want to get involved with...

I just found out no-one can sort out a brake mount for me in time, so I'm going to have to pick up new brakes, this exactly one week after I spent $150 stocking up on brake pads. I swear these things know when f*cking up can cause you the biggest pain in the ass...

The popping was the PAR piston engaging. I took it out long ago and the symptom went with it. That's what everyone keeps telling you. So some very minor mods and the fork is great. I'm not so sure about the 08s. You're worried about the thickness of fox castings? Check this out.

Kind of foxish eh?

What do you mean the ATA is 'leaking?'

The ATA system is a mechanical threaded shaft. Nothing pneumatic about it.

Unless you mean the air chamber itself. All air shocks potentially leak. Just get a valve core remover and some cores from a hardware store. I've replaced them in air shocks for years to fix leaks (mostly rear shocks)

 

[bullcrew]

Is that the fork (with bike ofcourse) that got sent under the landing and you landed ontop minus the bike!
Damn how hard did you stuff that!

 

[kidwoo]

Is that the fork (with bike ofcourse) that got sent under the landing and you landed ontop minus the bike!
Damn how hard did you stuff that!

That's not mine. I happily ride a very functional 07 version.


That's a buddy of mine who did that to his the first day out on it.




That bike ditch was a totem on IT'S first day out. Only casualty that day was a broken brake lever. I know how to preserve myself and my toys

 

[bullcrew]

. I know how to preserve myself and my toys

lmao! It comes natural, its part of the "OH $hit" factor located OH MY GOD section of the brain!

 

[bullcrew]

then theres pics like this to back it as well. 888 rc3
This is Vin a guy from the east coast. His trip to Utah recently to pick up his Jedi from Chris.

 

[kidwoo]

Yeah I could throw a dinner fork off a cliff and take a pic of it mid air.


Doesn't mean it's a durable suspension device for a bicycle

 

[bullcrew]

Yeah I could throw a dinner fork off a cliff and take a pic of it mid air.

PICS! Throw a soup spoon in forflair please!
LMAO!
Coveys snapped 3 heatubes off the older 66's, totems seals leak, 2 step winds down, boxxers are flexy, fox 40s have thin lowers. comrpession issues and seals plus cartridges blow, Avys tweak in a crash, so do the Stratos products, Shivers like to flex and blow seals as well, RIsse twist, 888 atas had wind down issues, Travis just didnt work all that well.
Just some issues founf on almost any fork out there, dont know how your buddy landed but with the fork still intact I assume he's OK if not then i hope he gets well soon! Any rider down is not good, unless I put you down! Then its good competition!!!

 

[kidwoo]

He crashed on some singletrack when he did that to his fork.

FWIW, I'm on my second set of seals on my totem and they've been fine. Considering how many totems AND 40s I saw leaking last year I'm assuming they were from the same shltty batch of universal "40mm stanchion china seals R Us"


The 888 atas have problems but they are very fixable problems. Nothing you can do about a thin casting or an inability to find good seals.

 

[big-ted]

So I bought an air fork. I feel dirty and violated.

 

[Biffff]

Biff, James DC11 and Supernaut (thanks btw), if I can do so without sounding arogant, what level would you say your riding was at? How hard are you on bike components in general? The reliability is something that really concerns me.

I ride as hard and fast as I possible can. When I'm not racing or training for racing I like to hit up some pretty big freeride. Like I said I ride at least 5 days a week. The tuneability is great, the rebound and compression are very responsive, and at 200 pounds I run 100 PSI and have bottomed the fork once.........on The CC course at Bromont.....Too fast in the tech off camber shoot. Those familiar with that line will know that it can be rough when you feck it up. I'm not the tipe to brag somethig up just because I have it, If it works like poo I'll say it. This fork got a bad rap due to marz's bad setup recommendations too.

 

[bullcrew]

He crashed on some singletrack when he did that to his fork.

FWIW, I'm on my second set of seals on my totem and they've been fine. Considering how many totems AND 40s I saw leaking last year I'm assuming they were from the same shltty batch of universal "40mm stanchion china seals R Us"


The 888 atas have problems but they are very fixable problems. Nothing you can do about a thin casting or an inability to find good seals.

It almost sounds like bad casting vs thin casting, ie air bubbles in cast making for weak areas.
Possibly as far as teh seals go, I havent had any issues with seals and if i do I can go Enduro seals. As far as bushing and play, thats another story I dont personally have an issue at this time with that. I put the 66 rc3 in a very awkward position last week, front end impact almost smacked the downtube with the front tire it was so hard and flex'd. So thats part of the reason I say it sounds like a air bubble in the cast.

 

[DirtyMike]

I exaggerated; took a tape measure out and tested it, I'm actually getting much closer to 7-10% sag in standing up attack position.

Still not quite where I want it to be though.

Does your fork have the Air assist??? I am not sure if the new 66's have that. If so there is quite the easy fix!!!



PM me if your looking for some mroe info on this

 

[sriracha]

....I put the 66 rc3 in a very awkward position last week, front end impact almost smacked the downtube with the front tire it was so hard and flex'd....

eeeeek!!!!

not bueno!

check for micro-cracks. do something like that on any fork, and 6 months from now, you'll be "just riding along", pull up the fork to hop a curb, and the lowers will drop away....i've seen it happen...stress fractures be lurking!!! kinda a problem with aluminum regardless of the fork company.

 

[bullcrew]

eeeeek!!!!

not bueno!

check for micro-cracks. do something like that on any fork, and 6 months from now, you'll be "just riding along", pull up the fork to hop a curb, and the lowers will drop away....i've seen it happen...stress fractures be lurking!!! kinda a problem with aluminum regardless of the fork company.

No cracks or issues. Besides I swapped out for new lowers and silver stanchions on it (wanted the nickle stanchions like the ata has and the wc! )

 

[Kanye West]

Woo can only take partial credit for the fork (just the PAR). The thing was so far from stock by the time it was sold it was barely even a 888 anymore.

I'm on the '08 ATA now. Thing feels like a moto fork when you get it dialed in. It makes the front end soooo burly compared to the '07 chassis. You just want to boss the friggin' trail around. It is noticeably stiffer.

I am going to be messing with the volume reducer at some point, or changing the position of it. We'll see what I come up with.

 

[big-ted]

Woo can only take partial credit for the fork (just the PAR). The thing was so far from stock by the time it was sold it was barely even a 888 anymore.

Care to PM me what was done? I'm going to start by just pulling the PAR and locking out the ATA. I'm somewhat tempted to pull the volume adjuster and leave the PAR in there just to retain that degree of tuneability, but it sounds like it wont do me any good.

 

[Kanye West]

When I can remember everything I will. It was basically just a ton of little stuff that added up real nicely.

 

[William42]

its just a regular rc3 - the "air assist" is for artificial oil volume change - I have no air in there right now, adding an air does what I can do in 20 seconds with a wrench and a bottle of oil

 

[DirtyMike]

its just a regular rc3 - the "air assist" is for artificial oil volume change - I have no air in there right now, adding an air does what I can do in 20 seconds with a wrench and a bottle of oil

The "Air assist" You have, is the 15 PSI max correct???? If so, try this for not geting enough Sag. Take the schraeder valve out, Push your fork down about an inch, might want a friend to help, hold it there, and put the valve back in. I am not versed on the 08's but I know the 07's were usually a little hi on the oil, limiting the travel, I know on mine for sure, weight to oil chart lists 210cc for my size, but with 210cc's yuo cannot get full travel, you lose about an inch. For my size, on my 07 anyways, I put about 185cc's in each size of my 66rc2ETA. Works friggin great, with no air in the "assist" I have a good 45% sag and a butterysmooth travel. I weigh in at 245, So I try my trick, if this works, then you might try dropping your oil level a bit and going back to a neutral air setting like you have now.

 

[big-ted]

Had my first ride on my '07 this evening. Holy cow this thing is plush. Tried a few different pressures, and currently settled on 100psi in the PAR, and 70psi in the main. Feels like butter. It's been too long since I rode a Marzocchi fork.

I don't seem to have the wind-down issue (yet) but I'm definitely not getting full travel. Maybe 180mm at most, and the last 20mm of that is pretty stiff. This doesn't really bother me though to be honest. It does dive a little more than I'd like under breaking. I'm guess removing the PAR and upping the main pressure is the solution to both these problems?

Thanks for all your advice guys.

 

[Kanye West]

Removing the PAR will get rid of a lot of the diving. Has to do with giving the main chamber a little more volume so you run a tad higher pressure without losing sensitivity.

 

[davep]

I'm guess removing the PAR and upping the main pressure is the solution to both these problems?

Or having a true LSC circuit with the ability to adjust the HSC transition.....:biggrin:

 

[big-ted]

Or having a true LSC circuit with the ability to adjust the HSC transition.....:biggrin:

Whatever. If the fork with these features spends 70% of it's time on my work bench rather than on my bike I can deal with it!

 

[big-ted]

Removing the PAR will get rid of a lot of the diving. Has to do with giving the main chamber a little more volume so you run a tad higher pressure without losing sensitivity.

Yeah. To me, the purpose of the PAR piston being on a tether is to have the second, higher pressure chamber kick in later in the travel. Varying the length of the tether will therefore change the point in the travel at which this occurs.

I don't understand how can one do any irreversible damage by having the main at a higher pressure than the PAR. In fact, I would have thought that inflating the main whilst holding the PAR valve open would cause the PAR piston to collapse to the bottom of the chamber, creating one large main chamber, as is the final aim. Doing the opposite would raise the PAR piston back to the end of it's tether. However, by the sound of Rene's post the PAR piston itself mechanically prevents full travel being obtained...

I'll go for a spin tomorrow and see if I can be bothered removing it before my roadtrip...

 

[Biffff]

Try dialing some compression in if your getting some dive. I run about 6 clicks of compression and 12 clicks of rebound. This makes the fork feel stiffer and slower then I'd like in the driveway, but massively better on the trail where it counts.

 

[big-ted]

So I pulled the PAR and went for a ride this evening. Oooooh yeah, now we're talking. Fork is much livelier now I'm running about 90psi in the main. I fear it's leaking air from the top cap on the ATA leg though. Not enough that performance is affected over a 15 minute run, but enough that I can hear it gurgling when I get to the bottom. I foresee some mid-roadtrip bodges involving epoxy and chewing gum. I can see I'm going to like this fork...

 

[Biffff]

So I pulled the PAR and went for a ride this evening. Oooooh yeah, now we're talking. Fork is much livelier now I'm running about 90psi in the main. I fear it's leaking air from the top cap on the ATA leg though. Not enough that performance is affected over a 15 minute run, but enough that I can hear it gurgling when I get to the bottom. I foresee some mid-roadtrip bodges involving epoxy and chewing gum. I can see I'm going to like this fork...

My top air valve did that too me once. I only use the bottom air valve (as they both access the same chamber now) and I just used a small pair of needle nose plyers and pulled up on the valve a bit as it seemed it was stuck down a little. It stopped leaking and that was over a month ago and I've had no air loss. If that doesn't work, Somebody else mentioned getting a valve stem core remover and some valve stem cores as its the same type of valve used in a car tire. Just take the old valve out and screw in a new one????

Glad your liking the fork!

 

[Mr Nug]

Has anyone had to do any modifications to the 08 fork? It seems like they have similar internals so it makes sense that they'd benefit from the same mods (even though they've apparently been tweaked slightly)...

 

[DirtyMike]

So I pulled the PAR and went for a ride this evening. Oooooh yeah, now we're talking. Fork is much livelier now I'm running about 90psi in the main. I fear it's leaking air from the top cap on the ATA leg though. Not enough that performance is affected over a 15 minute run, but enough that I can hear it gurgling when I get to the bottom. I foresee some mid-roadtrip bodges involving epoxy and chewing gum. I can see I'm going to like this fork...

PM me your address, I will send you a handfull of Valve cores.