[t1maglio]

I did a recent post and I got a lot of people saying to get an atomlab (and was that the cassette, or the freewheel), and some other suggestions. I'm intrigued, but I saw the Halo DJD and thought it was pretty neat looking. Anyplace here in the US sell it? Is it good? Any other options?

Also, for gearing I always ran 25-13, kinda light but it worked. I want to drop down to a 25-12. First of all, any suggestions on cogs, I'm currently just spacing a normal freehub body and for the time being until I build a new wheel I'm gonna do that. Also, is there another ratio that you guys are working for street, park, and dirt. I think I could go a bit higher due to not really doing hills, so maybe something with a 26 to a 28 up front?

Also, maybe a thread on hub would be better with a 13t freewheel, more durable? Any thoughts on that?

Oh, and a tensioner, I have a Black market Mob, kinda short for all the tensioners I have (primo, kink, etc) what should I get?

Thanks for your help. BTW, the Riot is sweet thus far, really excited!

Oh, I got a juicy 5, a bit more power then I want, anyway to tone that down? Anyone have a cable setup they want to trade? J/k, kinda.

 

[BikeSATORI]

Eastern 26 makes some SS hubs that work with 1pc drivers too.
As far as I know, DJD is europe only, but I could easily be wrong, I remember looking at one at the end of last season wanting one, but I had no beefs with my E26 and no reason to get a new one until I sold the bike...
Profile also makes some of the baddest hubs on the planet, but you'll pay a pretty heavy coin too. You would just need to opt for the 10mm X 135mm disc SS hub. I'm running a 14mm bmx one right now and it's so solid with very fast engagement.... got mine used for super cheap too.


I wouldn't highly recommend a hub that uses a thread on freewheel... too many negatives and no possibility of running smaller micro drive.


A basic starting point for most people on bikes of these types is the bmx standard of ~55 gear inches, which you can figure out with a fairly simple formula that looks like this (if I can do it with a keyboard, haha):
(front sprocket # teeth / rear cog # teeth) X wheel diameter.

so, for a bike with 26" wheels, you would take your gear ratio for example, which is 25:13 (very light), and assuming you are running 26, which you didn't mention) and plug in the numbers.
25 / 13 = ~1.923
= 1.923 X 26
= 50 gear inches.



and for chain tensioners, what do you mean "kinda short"? just grind down the bolt then and it should work ok. I typically only use one on the drive side anyway.


anyway, hope that helps... as for the brake, just lay off the finger muscles, haha... the seven's have much more adjustment from five, but what is your beef? are you saying it's too "off/on" feeling, with no modulation in between?

 

[t1maglio]

Hey, thanks for the feedback.

Just to clarify, the tensioner, like the lollipop part overlaps the back of the dropout, they are really short. I would have to grind into the round part.

And the brakes, I'm a bmx kid, a super powerful brake sucks for manuals and feathering stuff, at least for me.

 

[snaky69]

Hey, thanks for the feedback.

Just to clarify, the tensioner, like the lollipop part overlaps the back of the dropout, they are really short. I would have to grind into the round part.

And the brakes, I'm a bmx kid, a super powerful brake sucks for manuals and feathering stuff, at least for me.

I find my j5's to be lacking power sometimes. Of course when you're used to the almost non-existant braking power of 990 brakes, a hydro disc brake seems mega powerful.

Learn to feather it, those brakes have a lot of modulation.

 

[wakeeater]

yeah j5s have great modulation just way different then 990s. if all else fails cable might be for you as you can set them up with a long pull. and if you get a road bb7 you can run an ody shorty lever