I don't need to buy a new shock, or fork. But I'd like to keep my eyes open for any good deals that may come my way. My question is, what do I look for when fork and shock shopping to make sure I'll get something that is usable on my bike?
A new shock
- Thread starter Crazy Sweeper
- Start date
for the rear shock it is more compliced because you need to know the eye-to-eye lenght and the stroke length. also you need to know if it will even physically fit in the frame. for the fork its easy. the steerer tube lenght and the steerer tube diameter. if you don't have a 1.5 frame you will need a 1.125 fork.
one thing to think about is the overall lenght of the fork. if its too short or too long it will screw with your goe on the bike. also not all frame are rated for all lenght fork. in fact most have a max lenght fork limit.
one thing to think about is the overall lenght of the fork. if its too short or too long it will screw with your goe on the bike. also not all frame are rated for all lenght fork. in fact most have a max lenght fork limit.
I looked at the owner's manual for my bike and I can't find this limit. Where can I find it?Sir_Crackien said:
This is a funny question. Alot of people come into my shop asking for a great deal. I usually point to the demo Seven Duo-Lux which was $7000 but now $4000, a savings of $3000 I say. Usually these people are looking for $200 bike, and when they see the Mono-link and the bare Ti, they quickly stop asking for a deal and start asking for a bike in their price range.Crazy Sweeper said:
Without posting your bike or your riding style, there is no way to know what is a good deal for you. You could get a smoking deal on a SID World Cup or a Monster T, but unless you mention what kind of bike you have, it is hard for other RM's to know what is a good deal for you.
it's not the deal I'm really looking for right now, more of what I should be looking for.
But I'm riding an '04 haro x.1
I'm looking to get a bigger fork to change my riding angle a lil bit since I still feel top heavy, even behind my seat when riding declines.
But I'm riding an '04 haro x.1
I'm looking to get a bigger fork to change my riding angle a lil bit since I still feel top heavy, even behind my seat when riding declines.
Crazy Sweeper said:
A good way to figure this out is find out how much rear travel you have then don't go more than an inch longer with your fork. Email the company if you want to be positive. Don't consider dual crown forks, unless your head tube is reinforced or gusseted.
Looks like your bike has 5-6 inches of rear travel. Which travel selection are you using? I would look for a used Marzocchi Z150 preferebly with ETA but it is still a good fork without it. This fork is 6 inches of travel, an inch more that what you currently have. Zocchi forks are quite nice, keep the clean the stanchions (slider tubes) clean and get the oil changed every year and you should be fine.
For a rear shock you need to measure the eye to eye length, or the distance from one shock mount to the other. Try to find a rebuilt manitou 4-way swinger or 3-way Fifth Element or Fox Pro Pedal. Romic or Curnutt shocks are great but expensive. Don't buy new stuff, the cost of upgrading adds up to more than buying a new bike, so keep that in mind when parts shopping.
what do you guys think about the cane creek cloud nine??
CunningStunt said:
It's a nice, user-servicable air shock.dogdude said:
Excellent customer service.
Actually, I have the AD-10. Haven't tried the Cloud9.
-S.S.-
If you want to make you bike more downhill friendly, get a downhill friendly shock. Right now that means coil-overs. Until I see production freeride bikes with air shocks, get a coil over. The double-barrel should be what you're looking at.
yeah if you have $800CunningStunt said: