[Old_Dude]

You know, for such a small amount of dough, they seem like, I dunno, too good to be true, ya know?

Please understand, I'm a recreational rider - not fast, never will be. I just want something that will work, that's cheap, that's going to hold up (I guess rust isn't a factor here), and something that'll let me toss on some wide tires if I wanna.

Does anyone have any positive or negative things to say about these frames?

Thanks v/m --> OD

 

[EBasil]

I've seen them, handled them and watched them on the trail. For the money, they are an outstanding deal and are a better frame than more than half the "top end" hardtails of five years ago.

I just built up an alternative to the Access: the Jenson HT 1.5, which is Jenson's blowout aluminum frame. I'm also very happy with that, and for $120 SHIPPED, it just can't be touched. I don't have a headset press, so I went to my LBS to do that part (knowing they'd grind teeth upon seeing the frame). Everything was going fine until the shop owner finally couldn't resist and said, "So, what'd you pay for the frame, like 249.99 on special?"

I was right: he ground his teeth.

 

[BikeGeek]

I rode one all summer in SS mode. The only complaint that I have is that mine, which appears to be an older model than the one you posted, has an odd seat tube size. It came with a fat piece of rebar for a seatpost and I've had trouble finding a lighter one to fit it. Other than that, I'm really happy with it.

 

[Old_Dude]

an alternative to the Access: the Jenson HT 1.5

I just spoke with Dave at JensonUSA.com (x121) & I told him I wanted the Jenson HT 1.5 in my size & he said they're not going to have any more in until next year - he recommended getting the JAMIS DURANGO SX FRAME 02 instead, which is only $95, but doesn't accept discs (which I can live with).

Does anyone think this is a decent XC frame?

Thanks in advance.

 

[mrbigisbudgood]

Considering the fact that, in an earlier post, you expressed interest in moving up to discs sometime in the near future.......no.

 

[Old_Dude]

. . . expressed interest in moving up to discs . . .

Yeah, I think I'll stick with the Access frame - I like having the option there if I want it.

So, here's my next question (which seems like a no-brainer, but):

My current frame is 19 1/2" - the Access frame is offered in 18" & 20" - should I get the 20" frame instead of the 18"?

Thanks,

OD

 

[BikeGeek]

Originally posted by Old_Dude

Yeah, I think I'll stick with the Access frame - I like having the option there if I want it.

So, here's my next question (which seems like a no-brainer, but):

My current frame is 19 1/2" - the Access frame is offered in 18" & 20" - should I get the 20" frame instead of the 18"?

Thanks,

OD

I would. I find that a bigger frame with a shorter stem is much more stable, for lack of a better word, than a small frame with a long stem.

 

[Roasted]

Originally posted by Old_Dude

Yeah, I think I'll stick with the Access frame - I like having the option there if I want it.

So, here's my next question (which seems like a no-brainer, but):

My current frame is 19 1/2" - the Access frame is offered in 18" & 20" - should I get the 20" frame instead of the 18"?

Thanks,

OD

Depends on preference. I always ride a smaller frame. I find it more comfortable in tigh areas and it allows far more control with my riding. I am 6'5 and ride a 19" frame which suits perfectly.

 

[EBasil]

Originally posted by Old_Dude

My current frame is 19 1/2" - the Access frame is offered in 18" & 20" - should I get the 20" frame instead of the 18"?

Ride the smallest frame that "fits". A "smaller" frame will be lighter, stronger and give more room to the rider, so long as it "fits".

So, what "fits"? Well, if your current frame feels great, then measure the effective top tube and the stem extension.

1) Add those two together and you've got the overall dimension you want to have on the new bike. If you want a shorter or longer overall number than your old bike has, adjust now, and come up with the total.

2) Now you have room to play with the combination of the top tube and the stem extension, just don't select a stem with more than 140mm or less than 100mm extension on an XC bike . Beyond those extremes, it won't handle like an XC bike should (emphasis for benefit of sensitive DH types where 90mm stems are fine). After you figure your stem extension (try 120, and match the rise on your old bike if you're keeping the same fork. If not, go with 0 or 5 degree rise).

3) After you've subtracted that stem extension from your desired overall top length, you know what length Top Tube you want on the frame. Now , go to the spec sheet on the Access (or whatever) frames, and find the "size" that has the Top Tube dimension closest to what you want. That's the frame to get.

See, on a Jamis, the 20" bike has the same top tube as an 18.5" Access (the Access is a West Coast style NORBA racer), so the 18 or 19 or 20 inch size designation aren't your best place to determine size of the frame you buy. If you're going to use the seatpost that comes with the frame (and if it's a "layback" but your existing post isn't, or vice versa), take that into consideration when you figure the total top length of your desired bike.

 

[Old_Dude]

Ride the smallest frame that "fits". A "smaller" frame will be ( . . . blah, blah, blah)

THANKS - great advice & much appreciated. You explained this well because, even to me, it makes sense & seems simple.

We all know fit is vital - this helps a bunch, giving me the confidence to buy a bike unseen & knowing it'll fit well.

 

[mrbigisbudgood]

Originally posted by EBasil


just don't select a stem with more than 140mm or less than 100mm extension on an XC bike . Beyond those extremes, it won't handle like an XC bike should (emphasis for benefit of sensitive DH types where 90mm stems are fine).

Not true. I ride a small frame. When you start to scale things down, 90mm is a pretty normal size stem, not for DH either, for XC. Granted, this doesn't apply to OD, but don't generalize, us small folk have different requirements.

 

[EBasil]

See, I just knew that an Oompa Loompa would pop up out of the woodwork and gripe about that comment...:devil:

Okay, I'll make 90mm my new minimum. I just built up a 14" frameset, and have done a 12", too (not for me, I ate my vegetables as a kid), and have always found the 100 to wind up working better, but there is certainly room for interpretation and personal preference. I think OldDude is taller than, well, midgets, though... ... so everything should work out fine for him.

 

[Old_Dude]

. . . have done a 12", too . . .

I thought Serial Midget always built his own bikes.

 

[Carbon Fetish]

Remember a lot of companies measure the seat tube differently. I'm 5'8" and have a 32" inseam (yes, I have very long legs). There for I don't care about seat tube length and my main concern is my top tube. Before, when I didn't know about sizing I would get tt that were too long. After going with a smaller bike, I've noticed a big difference in handling and control. Try to find a frame that has the close TT length to what you already have if you happy on how it handles. Also, I like to say, "When in doubt go smaller." I find it easier to adjust a smaller bike than a bigger bikes with stems, seatpost, etc. Also the smaller bike will be lighter

 

[Old_Dude]

Proportionately (sp?), I'm way outta whack - 6' tall, w/32" inseam, so I must have a longer-than-normal torso, I guess. My sleeve length is 34.

I'm confident I can use the knowledge posted here to get a suitable frame & component fit.

 

[golgiaparatus]

Originally posted by Old_Dude

I just spoke with Dave at JensonUSA.com (x121) & I told him I wanted the Jenson HT 1.5 in my size & he said they're not going to have any more in until next year - he recommended getting the JAMIS DURANGO SX FRAME 02 instead, which is only $95, but doesn't accept discs (which I can live with).

Does anyone think this is a decent XC frame?

Thanks in advance.

Yeah its ok...Add another $100 and you could have tons of other great/better frames. Check Cambria's sale list, its humongous.

- JB

 

[D_D]

Just peel the stickers off and whos to know.

It was properly made in the same factory as a more expensive brand.

 

[Tenchiro]

A new powder coated from for $80 is pretty damn good especially because it has disc tabs and a replacable derailleur hanger. Justt find out what the warranty is before you buy.