Got the complete for a lot less than the frame sold for MSRP. Such a good deal, I had to pounce on it. '07 Highline, DHX 5.0 w/ti Coil, Fox 40 RC2, Saint cranks, XO shifter/derailleur....ready to seek the gnar.
Have a couple things up in the air right now, but will be adventuring to Northstar, soon. Meeting at Anderson tomorrow at 4 for as many runs as we can squeeze in, if anyone wants to hear me giggle like a little girl.
I currently hate you all. Finally I have the financial ability to make a couple mamoth/northstar trips during the summer time, But nooooo I had to go Eff the **** out of my knee......I even saved some vaca time......Noooo I had to use that for the time I missed after jacking Said Knee..............Its all good I guess, Just have to wait till next summer.
Im going to sit in the corner and cry now, I have to settle for FOntana one more summer
Made a pass down Anderson last Thursday and am pretty stoked on the ride of Turner. Extremely predictable with a legitimate point and shoot mannerism. Subtle changes to components, primarily brakes, are necessary.
Anyone know anything about Hayes brake pad compounds? I'm willing to give the brakes a shot if there is a pad that will eliminate the binary, on/off feeling, else I'll be shopping for Saint.
Which Hayes brakes are those? Can't see from the pictures. There are plenty of pad choices, and a few other things you can do to change that feel.
I spent a few years tinkering with Hayes, and one CAN change that feeling, but I was not able to do it without losing a little bit of absolute power.
If there isn't any air in the lines, the lines are routed nicely, don't kink anywhere, and are in good shape, they should have a really progressive lever feel (that's the best way I can explain it) where the last few degrees of lever rotation (after the pads are on the rotor hard) require a lot more pressure from your finger than the rest of the lever travel. That's usually just the lines expanding, and your brakes are locked or applying maximum braking effort. I found that with stainless steel lines and new fluid, I could run a little less fluid volume and gain some control over braking force, but had to be careful and keep adjusting so that the levers wouldn't go to the bars. If I remember correctly, it was a really fine line, just a few little drops and bubbles of fluid out of the caliper that made the difference. It took me quite a few bleeds to get it the way I wanted, but it was great for when conditions were dry and dusty at places like Keystone and Vail.
Thanks for the reply. The Hayes in question are the 10th Anniversary model. I'm not necessarily keen on the idea of having to tinker with the fluid volumes, primarily due to the potential for inconsistencies (especially given that the braking system of bikes is so small and therefore extremely difficult to make subtle changes, thus your repeated attempts to "get it right"). Blame the engineer in me, haha.
However, I am curious if you or anyone has experimented with different fluids in an attempt to identify acceptable fluid compressibility within the system.
I may have to go bug a motorcycle shop, as I doubt any bike shop can/will have insight...
get new brakes. Technology has come a long way since the Hayes mags were introduced 15 years ago, Avid, Formula, Shimano, Magura, Hope, even Hayes new brakes will all have much better power and modulation and they won't those lever power half way thru a run.