are they new? because they could be bedding in still. but there's really no way to set the distance of the pads, make sure your spacing is exact, because that will cause rubbing. The only real adjustment is how close the lever is to the bar which corresponds to how hard or soft the brake feels
You need to space the caliper with small washers.
If there arent any washers and the inside pad is rubbing, then take the wheel off and press both pads back with a screwdriver or whatever to seat the pistons back as far as possible. Then install the wheel and grab the lever to push the pads back out. If it still rubs alot then the brake needs to be bled.
If the outside pad is rubbing, then use small washers to space the caliper out so it dosent rub.
You need to space the caliper with small washers.
If there arent any washers and the inside pad is rubbing, then take the wheel off and press both pads back with a screwdriver or whatever to seat the pistons back as far as possible. Then install the wheel and grab the lever to push the pads back out. If it still rubs alot then the brake needs to be bled.
If the outside pad is rubbing, then use small washers to space the caliper out so it dosent rub.
We did that recently with a Hayes which was a little too tight, bleed the brake. Also, I don't think the XT's have brake posts like Hayes, but push the piston, not the post in case it breaks...
Well yeah IF it's only rubbing on one side, but it's not clear if that's what the original poster is talking about. If it's only dragging on one side, Klein's comments are good. Klein is also correct that the line should be properly bled - there could be air in the lines, causing expansion once things heat up. But XTs (and other disc brakes) can sometimes rub because the pads don't retract from the disc, and it can happen on a properly centered and bled brake.
If you're having the problem with a properly centered and bled caliper, and your rotors are straight, the pistons could be binding in the caliper. Pull the wheel, remove the pads, and then shove a brake block of some kind in there so you can pull the lever to expose the pistons a bit without pushing them all the way out. If they're dirty at all, wipe them off with a clean towel and some rubbing alcohol, then add a drop or two of a light lube around the pistons. Work the lube in a bit, wipe it all clean (again using alcohol - on the brakes, not the mechanic!), then reinstall the pads and check it out.
If that doesn't work you can try slightly increasing the spring tension on the pad springs by gently bending them outward a bit, but be careful not to mangle the spring too much, just open it up a little bit.
With centered calipers, bled lines, straight rotors, free-moving pistons, and proper pad spring release tension you should be good to go...
Pull the wheel, remove the pads, and then shove a brake block of some kind in there so you can pull the lever to expose the pistons a bit without pushing them all the way out. If they're dirty at all, wipe them off with a clean towel and some rubbing alcohol, then add a drop or two of a light lube around the pistons. Work the lube in a bit, wipe it all clean (again using alcohol - on the brakes, not the mechanic!), then reinstall the pads and check it out.
Yea thats a real good way too. I assumed his brakes were new for some reason. I did the lube the pistons thing on a pair of xtr's once that were hanging up, solved the problem right away.
If the pads are too close on the fork leg side, try facing the brake tabs back a bit. If you go too far you'll need to shim the caliper over a bit, but it's not difficult.
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