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Aftermarket pulleys on M952 XTR Rear Derailleur

erikkellison

Monkey
Jan 28, 2004
918
0
Denver, CO
So the pulleys on my old M952 XTR long cage rear derailleur are shot. They wobble like mad (mostly the upper pulley), resulting in crappy shifting. Problem is, minimum price for pulleys is $30. The stock pulleys are upper and lower specific, and are both 11T. Anyone have any idea if I will sufffer if I get some 10T pulleys instead? I found some aftermarket pulleys for much cheaper, and they're compatible with 9 speed, but I'm not sure if 10T instead of 11T will adversely affect things. Also, I'm wondering if the fact that they're not position specific will muck things up too. Anyone have any experience with this? If they don't work, I think I'll just be buying an X.9 instead, or maybe an old XT.
All comments about this are much appreciated!
 

Dartman

Old Bastard Mike
Feb 26, 2003
3,911
0
Richmond, VA
The top pulley is supposed to slide back and forth to allow for slop in the drivetrain I guess. This is why they are upper and lower specific.
I never had luck with aftermarket pulley's.

Mike
 

erikkellison

Monkey
Jan 28, 2004
918
0
Denver, CO
That's funny, I kinda retired my pulley because it slid back and forth. I thought that was play... I guess I should find it and check it out in more detail.
If it has to slide to function properly, then I can not see the aftermarket pulleys working correctly, but they are about half the price, and look SO SWEET, in anodized black, green, blue, red, gold, etc...
 

zahgurim

Underwater monkey
Mar 9, 2005
1,100
12
lolAsia
I changed my stock pullies for aftermarket alu with no adverse effects.
Run a 10 tooth upper and an 11 tooth lower, on two of my derailleurs. On is a short cage 952, and the other is a supershort cage DuraAce.
 

erikkellison

Monkey
Jan 28, 2004
918
0
Denver, CO
I actually have a choice between 10T and 11T I found out, but 11T is a smidgen more, though I get to pick my color. What would you recommend? I don't think I want to foot the bill for buying a pair of each - that brings me into the price range of buying stock replacements (too much).
Right now I am running a pulley from a 105 short cage, and though the pulley is wider (I think it's an 8 speed), it works better than what I had on there! I think I may buy the pulley that is designed to not slide back and forth, so when it does develop play (inevitably), it will still work. Plus, my derailleur's pivots have a bit of play in them, so that will afford the pulley some play in a different way, to the same effect.
 

zahgurim

Underwater monkey
Mar 9, 2005
1,100
12
lolAsia
I run the 10 tooth on top, as I like the short cages and run them with 32 and 34 ring cassettes. I find it gives me a bit more room to play with compared to the 11 tooth ring.

If your setup was working fine with an 11 tooth pulley, stick with that.
 

oldfart

Turbo Monkey
Jul 5, 2001
1,206
24
North Van
The only aftermarket pulleys I ever used succesfully were Tacx. No centeron feature on the top one but they worked just fine. $30 isn't a lot of coin as you know they will work perfectly. What's the saving? $10? And XTR pulleys are very good. Small sealed bearings top and bottom. Another option would be XT pulleys. Pretty sure they are compatible.
 

erikkellison

Monkey
Jan 28, 2004
918
0
Denver, CO
The pulleys I'm considering are sealed bearing on both. While the XTR pulleys may be good, they are plastic. Plastic sucks. The teeth on mine are both shot, and I'm not going to pay such coin for such cheap parts. I can get pivot bearings for my bike for $6, and they're good quality bearings. I have a hard time paying the extra $28 ($40-$6x2) for some plastic 11T pulleys. Anodized aluminum though? That's worth $8 ($20 - $6x2) more to me. And they come with spacers for proper fit. I may have just made up my mind :)
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
The upper pulley wheel (called a G-pulley) is designed purposely to be able to slide side to side a few mm. It is not play at all, they are designed this way to aid shifting. I'd assume switching to a regular non-sliding pulley may cause shifting quality or smoothness to suffer - albeit it likely wouldn't be too noticeable. Plastic pulleys are also quieter.

Personally i'd stick with the stock XTR ones, and would much prefer to, given the choice. If you must go with the alloy ones though, it's not going to kill you to try it. :)
 

erikkellison

Monkey
Jan 28, 2004
918
0
Denver, CO
That pulley set you linked to is the stock set. It is expensive. I have an ultegra pulley on there right now, and it's working fine. Now I just need a new chain...
 

vibiker

Monkey
May 3, 2004
732
0
Santa Clara / Vashon
erikkellison said:
The pulleys I'm considering are sealed bearing on both.
Can't remember the brand, but the sealed cartridge bearing pulleys on my (year-round commuter in the PNW) road bike, decided to seize up in a really lousy part of town last winter.

I've since gone back to XTR pulleys.