One of the local kids angled his saddle like that since he is wheeling most of the timeAnd dumb AF for this bike...
Too big. Those are the size of a V-brale noodle. You wamt something 1/2 to 2/3 the size. I bet you can find ones meant for derailleurs.These can be used as a rollamajig, lets see how well it works with my shimano 12.
I've got the road bike version. Monoblock 12spd 11-28t for like $30. Weighs less than Dura-ace 11-30t. Shifts a little worse than Dura-ace.Anybody tried the sram xo/xx knockoff cassettes that cost like 100-120 bucks?
I am that local kid. Angling the saddle down for seated wheelies only really works well when the bike is fairly long for the rider. Shorter bikes. As all but one of my bikes are by modern standards I find angled nose up a lot better for control. I do also have an incredibly well broken in barse tho.One of the local kids angled his saddle like that since he is wheeling most of the time
The Chinese top only one up copys definitely use a weaker alloy. Got a scar somewhere on my right inner lower leg to show for it. Shouldn't ever matter in most conditions. and If you don't ride in loose trousers/jeans.Just received my OneUp chain/bash guard. Really impressed and only $30. Best I can tell its the real thing.
Once upon a time Keith Bontrager held an annual awards ceremony for bike parts manufacturers call the "people who make their own shit awards".
I sometimes wonder what goes through Keiths head now that his name is just an inhouse brand for trek, to pass off parts ordered out of an asian catalogue.
All of this fuss just to end up paying 50 US rubles for a bad Schrader mockup.
Bontrager, eh? Now where have i seen those before…
Bought some of these rotors on the back of this thread.Ordered a pair of ZTTO 2.3 mil rotors for kicks. Seems pretty well made. Gonna test them on the downhill bike if it ever gets here
Ordered a pair of ZTTO 2.3 mil rotors for kicks. Seems pretty well made. Gonna test them on the downhill bike if it ever gets here
I just got back from my first trip on them. Got my new DH bike 2 days before a 12 day riding trip and managed to get these rotors on with my Shigura brake set up.Bought some of these rotors on the back of this thread.
rode downhill with them yesterday. They definitely have more power than old 203 Saint rotors. Rear gave a little bit of noise every now and then but not too much. ( the tracks are long, I live in the alpes, and they didn’t seem to overheat).
im a little curious as to how they’ll wear as the breaking surface is much deeper than a Shimano rotor But for ten euros for 2 ( introductory offer) what do you want!
They weighed 310 ish gram.
dunno. pray tell?
Bontrager, eh? Now where have i seen those before…
oh right. I remember you mentioned that before. still can't find them on AliExpress though...
He’s probably pretty happy he got to keep his job and hasn’t had to do the big media song and dance at 100 bike shows a year to sell his hardtails. Bruce Gordon, one of the other guys behind the “society of people who make their own shit” passed away recently, stayed true to his morals for about as long as he could and ended up pretty bitter about the whole industry with a warehouse full of gravel tyres left as his legacy.Once upon a time Keith Bontrager held an annual awards ceremony for bike parts manufacturers call the "people who make their own shit awards".
I sometimes wonder what goes through Keiths head now that his name is just an inhouse brand for trek, to pass off parts ordered out of an asian catalogue.
oh right. I remember you mentioned that before. still can't find them on AliExpress though...
but that doesn't really matter to me anymore I guess. With my recent flat, I discovered the sealant clogs the valve at the base, where it pops out of the rim inside the tire. that's the part that needs to be bigger...pulling the valve core out isn't really a big problem...
The shorts or the longs?Who was it that ordered the MTB pants from Ali? Want to try a pair, but can't remember what style you ordered
Long pants. I think some of the sellers got clipped for using TLD or POC in their adsThe shorts or the longs?
As promised.
Sweet...
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Hmm...
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And dumb AF for this bike...
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Works sweet. Looks exactly like the genuine one in pics.
Time will tell if it lives up to the non counterfeit versions durability. But not a huge amount to go wrong in the first place really.
You nailed it. It’s on a oneup post, and that made me also suspicious, as the original one is also on the same type of post, but that was delivered with shims and spacers. The rail fixing bolts are torqued to infinite newton meters so there’s no play there.What post is it fitted on?
If it's a one up is there adequate clearance for the shrader valve under the switch grade? And are the two fitting bolts and the rail clamp bolt definitely tight enough?
One of mine is a little finecky and the fore/aft saddle position can affect it's operation/stability . But it's kinda because of the design of the rails on the SLR saddle I have fitted to it.
Do you ride this bike in the cold? If you do, you shirley don't want shimano brakes that become on/off switches with no lever travel? I believe everything above RSC is supposed to be decent. They seem to have changed "naming" conventions recently, but it's well known the lower level brakes are pretty crap and the higher ones are decent. But apart from that, there are other good brakes that work in the cold...I would not recommend shimano for this. While I tend to not recommend shimano for the other inherent issues, I realize that not everyone encounters those issues due to how they ride and brake...but this is a little more overall if you are going to use them in the winter/cold. Get a good DOT brake, they will work the same as in the summer...you won't think about em.Anyone buy Shimano brakes off there? Need something new for the fat bike, as the SRAM Levels I have are absolute garbage.
just put some putoline 2.5 inDo you ride this bike in the cold? If you do, you shirley don't want shimano brakes that become on/off switches with no lever travel? I believe everything above RSC is supposed to be decent. They seem to have changed "naming" conventions recently, but it's well known the lower level brakes are pretty crap and the higher ones are decent. But apart from that, there are other good brakes that work in the cold...I would not recommend shimano for this. While I tend to not recommend shimano for the other inherent issues, I realize that not everyone encounters those issues due to how they ride and brake...but this is a little more overall if you are going to use them in the winter/cold. Get a good DOT brake, they will work the same as in the summer...you won't think about em.
lol...no, I've been there, done that. It makes little difference. Maybe a slight difference to lever speed that you can detect...but no discernable difference to cold weather operation or wandering bite point. They still screw up a bunch in those situations.just put some putoline 2.5 in
Or I'll say it like this: If that actually fixed the issue, I'd still be using those brakes.just put some putoline 2.5 in
Well, water freezes, so that's a pretty shit name...but it has to do more with how shimano brakes operate in the cold and I'm not sure any fluid can fix that. It seems like it simply amplifies the wandering bite point, to the point where when it's cold enough, there is no lever travel at all, they basically lock up virtually no lever travel. In slightly less cold, it only takes a few squeezes to reach that same point, where the engagement is at 0-lever travel. If we could fix this in warm weather, where you are on the steeps and on the brakes hard and have to quickly let go and reset and the bite point moves out...then I reckon the problem would probably go away in the cold too. The problem in the cold though is that it takes this problem and amplifies it and makes it happy basically everywhere, whereas in the warm it's only on the steeps.Or redline like water.
Are you saying your shimano's pump up to have no free play? That's not the normal shimano wandering bite point issue. It sounds like you just have bad runout on your rotors and are getting bad knock back.Ha, I just did it right now. My bar-bike still has the XTR brakes in it (with the putoline I think) and I just squeezed a few squeezes till the bite point was at 0 travel. It's one of those "that cold" days today. Anyways, point is, these are pretty horrible brakes (shimano) for cold temps. They make work for people in other situations, but I highly do not recommend them for cold.