[DirtEveryDay]

I'm not talking about punch press bikes like the P-bikes or STDs, or Chases, etc, but something custom, purpose built, and ready to be abused. Something like what Rick the Welder has been popping up with lately is what comes to mind. I'd be working on something fully custom with replaceable chainstay grind plates, downtube plates, etc. His frames weigh in at 3 pounds. That's atleast 2.5 pounds lighter than the lighter steel frames out there. That would put my build in the high twentys.
But my current steel whip is a black market Riot and it's pretty beat. Dents all over the downtube, dents in the top tube, smashed in non-drive chainstay from learning pedal grinds, scratches and rust. My bikes are nothing more than tools these days, but will an aluminum tool hold up?
I know that steel is the prefered material, just curious to see if AL will stand on the same ground, and lose the weight penalty.

 

[RimJobbed]

I'm having a hard time determing what you're asking. Just because the P bikes, STDs, or Chase are exactly what come to mind with the mention of aluminum in a custom, purpose built ride. I suppose if you've got a hook on someone that can weld custom aluminum together for you into a sweet ass bike then I'd say do it. But those 3 previous mentioned rides are the norm for aluminum street. I ride a P-2 and have thrashed on it for about 3 years. I'll be buying a steel frame to build up soon though. Holdin out for that Howie. I've stretched my aluminum frame in very miniscule, but aggravating ways. My headtube has some stretch from casing dirt jumps too many times and now my headset cup creaks when I turn my bars or get on the pedals. Since it's an aluminum frame it resonates through the whole thing. Completely annoying.

Also, aluminum just grinds away in situations like pedal grinds and a simple dent in any of the tubes is more of a stress point and risks cracking or breaking altogether rather than just bending like steel.

 

[Stoked]

with the condition of your riot that you described, sounds like a no. i forget what the 24 letoy's used to weigh in at. it sounds like you want to go in that direction.

 

[opjones]

Aluminum is just so stiff and rigid. I wish I had a steel frame instead of my P.3. You also get a lot more pop from a steel frame, the flex is what does it for you. My next ride will be steel for sure, they just ride a lot smoother.

 

[ServeEm]

From the way it sounds like you ride your bike is pretty abusive. Just like me Even with grind plates like you described, the stays and downtube would still get dented up easier than a steel frame would imo. It sounds like a good idea, just doesn't seem like an al frame would hold up to street abuse. Is 2.5lbs weight savings worth it? I think my 20" rear wheel weighs a good couple pounds.

 

[RimJobbed]

What we need is a Ti 26" frame.

 

[ebrider510]

I wouldn't suggest it personally like everyone else said, just because of how banged up your current ride is...AL would probably just crack under that type of abuse which would be money down the drain. but, maybe talk with RTW about what you want and how much abuse it needs to withstand.

 

[DirtEveryDay]

Man, I hate it when people tell you what you already know but don't want to hear! lol!
I just tried to lose a few pounds by tearing down a PERFECTLY great set of Double Tracks in favor of some Rhyno lite Xls... Now I gotta go drop another $60 to have the Double Tracks put back on. That sucks a lot of hiney...
And now that you mention it... it's pretty funny that I didn't even notice the weight difference, but I DID notice the walk home with a spoke-taco in my chainstays...
A steel 24" bike may still be the answer for me...