an AM bike you'd like a company to build
- Thread starter saruti
- Start date
I looked at one of these since I live close to the PATH, but I ended up getting a spitfire instead and I couldn't be happier.I really want to ride one of these.
EL CICLON "PATH SPECIAL EDITION"
http://thepathbikeshop.com/blog/2008/8/19/ventana-el-ciclon-special-edition.html
Yeah, with the shock off I too notice a bit of sticking in the pivots, but unlike you I don't notice it on the trail at all. Maybe bc I'm a hack.
IMO the forces from hitting stuff on the trail are far greater than any sticking and it becomes negligible. It did worry me when I first got it but I soon forgot/didn't care.
As far as the comment about spitty's staying on the ground too much, again Im not too concerned. i'm not a big jumper to begin with so I like the added stability. If I need to loft it, it seems predictable, and it is still nimble enough to rip up twisty singletrack.
"AM" is a term that describes a huge variance of bikes. It is never going to be a Full blown DH. For me it means if I can only own ONE bike...... and I want to be able to climb some hills, or pedal for hours, but also charge some DH, and maybe some Mammoth trips... then that is an AM bike. 140mm to 160mm FS, with a fairly linear shock rate. Probably an air shock, with a capable fork, Around 30lbs. Maybe 33lbs is you want a coil shock and beefier parts/tires. Head angle cannot be slacker than 67. Really 68 is where it should be.....
I had an 06' Giant Reign. This was 152 mm rear travel, lighter build, Splice fork. This was a GREAT AM bike. Fun to ride, PEDALED GREAT! very capable. But not a DH shuttle bike at all.
So I stepped up to the Commencal 666 LTD to handle some of the more DH oriented stuff(but again it is an AM bike NOT a DH). With many of the same parts, 160mm travel, and a Lyrix fork, and had PUSH tune the RP3 for DH, and 65MM stem so I can climb. The difference is night and day. This bike only has 8MM more travel, but it uses it better..... just gives me more confidence over the nasty stuff than the Giant did. And nothing wrong with the Giant, just different.
I had an 06' Giant Reign. This was 152 mm rear travel, lighter build, Splice fork. This was a GREAT AM bike. Fun to ride, PEDALED GREAT! very capable. But not a DH shuttle bike at all.
So I stepped up to the Commencal 666 LTD to handle some of the more DH oriented stuff(but again it is an AM bike NOT a DH). With many of the same parts, 160mm travel, and a Lyrix fork, and had PUSH tune the RP3 for DH, and 65MM stem so I can climb. The difference is night and day. This bike only has 8MM more travel, but it uses it better..... just gives me more confidence over the nasty stuff than the Giant did. And nothing wrong with the Giant, just different.
This was my first thought when I read the OP's wants.I really want to ride one of these.
EL CICLON "PATH SPECIAL EDITION"
http://thepathbikeshop.com/blog/2008/8/19/ventana-el-ciclon-special-edition.html
I love my Slayer.
Steep seat angle, and I actually do use the adjustable travel on the fork. Even without it, the front end doesn't wander too bad on the uphills though.
Steep seat angle, and I actually do use the adjustable travel on the fork. Even without it, the front end doesn't wander too bad on the uphills though.
I assume you're talking about the el ciclon? looks like it probably pedals pretty damn well to me, I haven't ridden any low single pivots that don't pedal pretty damn well with a 32t ring.
Boy have I looked for the bike that fits the bill. Spitty came close when it was released but yes those bushings
I also prefer shorter CS. I was all over the idea of the Voltage since I love versatile bikes and and I know the bike rides great but I feel it will be a tad too small and the seat post too short for longer rides and climbing. I have a medium Wildcard now and it's cramped. I should be on a large but I bought it mainly as a jump bike. This has given me a feel for what the Voltage might be like. 1 year ago I would have taken a long Voltage if I could have found a frame but in the last couple of months I have come to understand how many sacrifices I am prepared to make to get the bike I need. Currently on a Delerium which is epic but its obviously too much travel and too heavy to be a trail ripper. I like all the geo posted already - short CS, 66-67* HA, low BB.... but I like a little extra beef to throw the bike off trail features. I keep comming close but to get the beef at a reasonable weight it always puts me in the 160mm travel range. The only other issue I would put in as my personal request is a 17" ST for a large, this would allow me to hit the 4x/DJ trails for some fun.
My ideal bike would then have enough room to be comfortable, 66-67* HA, 13.25"-13.5" BB, 16.5"-16.75" CS, 17" ST with 125-140mm rear travel with the option to run a 140-150mm fork.
My short list is:
Mojo HD 140mm
New Commencal Meta AM
Knolly Chilli or Endo
Really like the idea of:
Specialized Pitch but no luck finding this. Only great reviews for this little gem.
GT Sanction but finding a frame is never going to happen.
Specialized Enduro - again no luck finding a frame only.
Still need to scrutinize the Yeti range. I may only be in a position to pick up a new frame at the end of this year and if I skip this window it will be end of next year. I hope the bike we all wanting will maraculously appear by then.
I also prefer shorter CS. I was all over the idea of the Voltage since I love versatile bikes and and I know the bike rides great but I feel it will be a tad too small and the seat post too short for longer rides and climbing. I have a medium Wildcard now and it's cramped. I should be on a large but I bought it mainly as a jump bike. This has given me a feel for what the Voltage might be like. 1 year ago I would have taken a long Voltage if I could have found a frame but in the last couple of months I have come to understand how many sacrifices I am prepared to make to get the bike I need. Currently on a Delerium which is epic but its obviously too much travel and too heavy to be a trail ripper. I like all the geo posted already - short CS, 66-67* HA, low BB.... but I like a little extra beef to throw the bike off trail features. I keep comming close but to get the beef at a reasonable weight it always puts me in the 160mm travel range. The only other issue I would put in as my personal request is a 17" ST for a large, this would allow me to hit the 4x/DJ trails for some fun.My ideal bike would then have enough room to be comfortable, 66-67* HA, 13.25"-13.5" BB, 16.5"-16.75" CS, 17" ST with 125-140mm rear travel with the option to run a 140-150mm fork.
My short list is:
Mojo HD 140mm
New Commencal Meta AM
Knolly Chilli or Endo
Really like the idea of:
Specialized Pitch but no luck finding this. Only great reviews for this little gem.
GT Sanction but finding a frame is never going to happen.
Specialized Enduro - again no luck finding a frame only.
Still need to scrutinize the Yeti range. I may only be in a position to pick up a new frame at the end of this year and if I skip this window it will be end of next year. I hope the bike we all wanting will maraculously appear by then.
Never found a good pedaling bike with a pivot that low but tbh I'm just being anal. If you know how to pedal 5 inch bike won't bob anyway.
Never found a good pedaling bike with a pivot that low but tbh I'm just being anal. If you know how to pedal 5 inch bike won't bob anyway.
Btw. If you don't follow dirt maybe this is the answer?
Though I have to say it is a bit different for the sake of it.
Last edited:
This is exactly what I want, though it must be made from Carbon and the frame weight should be under 6lbs,
160mm of travel with near exact geometry. If that bike existed, I'd sell the DH bike and have one "do it all"
Sadly, neither the Morewood Sukuma or Jabula fits that bill
Last edited:
I'd rather have a 140x140 or a 110x140 like the distortion but I live further away from the mountains and prefer my trailbikes a bit further away from my dh bikes.This is exactly what I want, though it must be made from Carbon and the frame weight should be under 6lbs,
160mm of travel with near exact geometry. If that bike existed, I'd sell the DH bike and have one "do it all"
Sadly, neither the Morewood Sukuma or Jabula fits that bill
My idea is that I will soon(ish) have "one bike", so will therefore have something like a CCDBair/BOS Void on a 160mm bike, but I want to be able to build it up to 30lbs dead including a Reverb for the trail days and then a heavier wheelset for DH days.
For that to realistically happen, the frame's gotta be carbon.
For that to realistically happen, the frame's gotta be carbon.
Having a dh bike I consider near perfect and living alone I have the possibility to have 3 bikes with no problems so that solves it. Yes as a one bike 160-170mm would be great.
What do you guys think of the Cannondale Claymore? I like the idea of the Fox DYAD shock that changes it from a 110mm trail bike to a 180mm FR bike with each setting independently tunable. The change also drops the BB and slackens the geo. It also has two mounts for the shock for even more flexibility. I rode its cousin the Jekyll at the Vermont Mtn Bike Festival last year and the tech seems legit. Plus with those huge linkages and pivots it felt super stiff. But at 32.8lbs the Claymore is a bit heavy for trail bike (the carbon Jekyll I rode was about 27lbs). Maybe they will make a carbon one? But that would make the $3900-$5000 price even higher!
Me too. I've been keeping an eye out for these. Wish that they were ready for production this year.
Ragley 10-4 and G6
http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/ragleys-ten-four-and-g-six-full-suspension-bikes-32031
Actually, HA mentioned in this one.
http://cloverleaf.pinkbike.com/blog/Nukeproof-amp-Ragley-Eurobike-2011.html
Last edited:
Any info on the angles. I will probably be on the market for a new trailbike late 2012 so it's too early for me to decide but the prices are amazing.
Added a link to my previous post.
http://cloverleaf.pinkbike.com/blog/Nukeproof-amp-Ragley-Eurobike-2011.html
67 for the 110/140 10-4
66 for the 130/160 G6
http://cloverleaf.pinkbike.com/blog/Nukeproof-amp-Ragley-Eurobike-2011.html
67 for the 110/140 10-4
66 for the 130/160 G6
Last edited:
Carbon Speci Enduro. Standard HA is 66.5* and 350mm BB,use angle set/off set bushings to get the desired Geo, easily built to 28lbs.
Last edited:
Funny you should post that. I think I should have gone with my gut instinct and got the S-Works enduro in stead of the Intense Tracer 2.
Don't get me wrong, I love my tracer, but I've never been able to shake the feeling that the carbon Enduro is my ideal bike.
ONly one slight issie, will something like a CCDBair fit? I saw it posted somewhere that getting another aftermarket shock for enduro are hard.
Yup... I'm keeping an eye out to see when they'll be released..... Checks everything for me except one thing...
I'm not a big "keep up on maintenance" kind of guy. LOVE the 10-4.... as with any parallel link type design... a lot going on down there suspension mech wise.
So, knowing that about myself... and some may rip me on the complete opposite end selection of a single piv....
The Orange 5 is on my short list as well. 67 degr. HA....
Price may come into play here for me..... The Orange is bling dough.
Last edited:
Try tilting your saddle at a similar angle to a DJ bike and perch yourself on the nose for steeper climbing.
Well I don't plan to ride my trailbike through a flood like I did my legend and the bearings held up fine. I have to change 2 this season after 2 years of riding. Not that horrible if you ask me.
Yep, uses a bearing (no cup) top and bottom so what you see is what you get.
Sounds ouch but I'll give it a try. Should I sew a plastic plate in my short's chamois?
He was kidding. I laughed so hard when I read that.
Try flipping your stem negative, or lowering it a few spacers. Your bars should never be on a plain above your seat on anything but a hybrid cruiser or downhill bike. Get them level or below your seat. These bikes are made for pedaling.
^I was also kidding. At climbing height my seat is at least 5" above my bars on the FR bike, 6"+ on the trail bike. It's the fore/aft position that forces a compromise since the seat moves forward when you lower it and backward when raised. Keep in mind that a 6'2" rider moves their seat up and down 8" on a FR bike. A steeper ST angle would keep the seat in a more ideal fore/aft position when using an adjustable post.
Ha ha... my sides!! you crazy jokers !
I'm only 5'11" and move my seatpost up by around 11" from slammed to climbing height.
with the saddle tilted, for me the difference caused in reach from raising/lowering it is still manageable, like I said you just need to get used to using the entire saddle. when you want weight forward (for steeper climbs) you need to perch on the nose.
I'm talking about tilting it by about 10/15deg, not turning it into a butt plug.
dunno about anybody else but for me if my saddle's not tilted it'd also feels awful between the knees when slammed.
I'm only 5'11" and move my seatpost up by around 11" from slammed to climbing height.
with the saddle tilted, for me the difference caused in reach from raising/lowering it is still manageable, like I said you just need to get used to using the entire saddle. when you want weight forward (for steeper climbs) you need to perch on the nose.
I'm talking about tilting it by about 10/15deg, not turning it into a butt plug.
dunno about anybody else but for me if my saddle's not tilted it'd also feels awful between the knees when slammed.
I'm thinking you don't know how much 15 degrees is.Ha ha... my sides!! you crazy jokers !
I'm only 5'11" and move my seatpost up by around 11" from slammed to climbing height.
with the saddle tilted, for me the difference caused in reach from raising/lowering it is still manageable, like I said you just need to get used to using the entire saddle. when you want weight forward (for steeper climbs) you need to perch on the nose.
I'm talking about tilting it by about 10/15deg, not turning it into a butt plug.
dunno about anybody else but for me if my saddle's not tilted it'd also feels awful between the knees when slammed.
Also, how do you manage to pedal the bike with the seat dropped 11"? I'd wager that most downhill pros ride with their seat 4-6" below full height AT MOST.
I have always wondered how are pros able to ride with such high seats.
I keep the seat on my DH bike as low as possible without hitting the rear tire at bottom out.
On my trail bike I have a 4" dropper post, but I'd like an inch or two more drop to really get the seat out of way.
I know exactly what 15deg is thanks, and am not a "downhill pro" without shouting, WTF is your point?
Do you downhill on a recumbent?