That was your point?Do you downhill on a recumbent?
funnily enough if I'm riding DH I'll use my DH bike but this isn't a thread about DH bikes.
That was your point?Do you downhill on a recumbent?
Yeti ASR5-Carbon with a 150mm fork. Fantastic bike but I had to completely change the way I climbed because of the head angle. If I didn't get my whole body over the front tire it would wonder all over the trail and lift off from the smallest bumps. I couldn't imagine trying to climb with 63-64 HAs like some of you are suggesting.matt, what bike was it?
I wanna see what trails you guys are riding where you would want sub 67* HA. My last trail bike was 66* and it was a pain in the ass on climbs. If it wasn't 23.5lbs I would have hated climbing.
The commencal guys already made it!maybe something like this
View attachment 110313
It also depends on your cockpit and your definition of steep. I'm on the same boat as Matt. I really want to see a steep trail that could be climbed on a sub 66er.the ones where i live have super steep climbs, mostly fireroads, and long DH descents and I don't have a problem climbing with a sub 66*HA. My Hardtail has a sub 65*ha (ragley blue pig with 150mm lyric) and i don't have a problem climbing anything on it, either.
Yeti ASR5-Carbon with a 150mm fork. Fantastic bike but I had to completely change the way I climbed because of the head angle. If I didn't get my whole body over the front tire it would wonder all over the trail and lift off from the smallest bumps. I couldn't imagine trying to climb with 63-64 HAs like some of you are suggesting.
I guess if you just had fireroad climbs and long extended descents it might work...
He had a revelation at 150 which is about 20mm higher than a fox set to 140. I own the same bike, and I am sure it was a beast to climb with that fork on there due to the seat angle and high front end. I have a fox set to 135mm on my asr 5, and it feels balanced and handles great both up and down. So, you are right, overall geometry does make a difference. That said, a 67 head angle is as slack as I go for my trailbike. I just ride too much tight twisty singletrack to want it any slacker for up or down.Seat angle makes far more of a difference in keeping the front end down than head angle does. My Enduro is a 66 head angle with low 16 in long stays and it has no trouble keeping front down with a 74 degree effective seat angle. The Yeti has a 71 degree with a 140mm fork and depending on which 150mm fork you could have had a significantly taller axle to crown and maybe even less than 70 degree. That was almost assuredly the culprit.
I will agree on the agility gain from the steeper angles for sure. My trails are super fast and off camber wide open sort of thing for the most part intermixed with occasional steep rock rolls and short spurts of fun lines so I like my enduro's angles and I LOVE the super short stays for the playful nature they provide.He had a revelation at 150 which is about 20mm higher than a fox set to 140. I own the same bike, and I am sure it was a beast to climb with that fork on there due to the seat angle and high front end. I have a fox set to 135mm on my asr 5, and it feels balanced and handles great both up and down. So, you are right, overall geometry does make a difference. That said, a 67 head angle is as slack as I go for my trailbike. I just ride too much tight twisty singletrack to want it any slacker for up or down.
It also depends on your cockpit and your definition of steep. I'm on the same boat as Matt. I really want to see a steep trail that could be climbed on a sub 66er.
SoCal, our trails go very steep up and very steep down. Meadows in Aliso Woods, for example, about as steep a climb as possible on a bike. Aenema has it, seat tube angle is more important than head angle for maintain traction and not looping out.
I bought a 98 Specialized Ground Control last fall because of how it rides. Its amazing, corners so fast, climbs well, eats up everything but the biggest hits (has even taken a 35ft gap). I have a decent component spec on it, just need a disc conversion and maybe a fox 32 and it will dialed. The only complaint I have about it is the lack of seat post adjustability, but I can live with it. Wouldnt trade it for anything.....except maybe a Dixon.It's funny how certain bikes have come and gone into and out of the fold over the years without people noticing why they were popular at the time.
That was almost 10 years ago when that frame came out, and the really old spec bikes that they don't have on their site anymore were 4/4.5" travel frames with honest to god 12.5" BBs.
But it cracks me up when people say 'oh you couldn't ride a bike like that here'
Good to know. I'll be on the market for a new trailbike so it will be usefull.SoCal, our trails go very steep up and very steep down. Meadows in Aliso Woods, for example, about as steep a climb as possible on a bike. Aenema has it, seat tube angle is more important than head angle for maintain traction and not looping out.
Did you see Lopes climbing UP that in that vid? And not the smooth section over on the side. Right up the middle!definitely AM, you would be surprised if you knew how many good trails there are in this area. this is just a section of a trail that is popular, it's a 2 way trail and gets climbed a bunch, it's not steep compared to other trails. Then, we have a bunch of trails that are downhill only but are accessed by long, steep fire roads.
I had one in college, it was Ok. The bike was a little too DH to be good at XC/AM and a little too much XC/AM to be good at full blown DH. It was good for pedalling out to sections of trails and sessioning them but for extended XC rides it was a pig. I think it came in around 35-36lbs.The commencal guys already made it!
Awesome looking bike IMO. I wonder if one with air suspension, an adjustable fork, and a dropper would be worth a crap for AM?