This has never been considered, by anyone, ever.
(unfortunately, the bb is way, way too low, period)
(unfortunately, the bb is way, way too low, period)
Any Of You With A Machine Shop…
- Thread starter rideit
- Start date
You know that and I know that......but they don't know it quite yet
I guess one way to eliminate pedal strikes...ahhh, too simple. It'll never catch on.
I like to make things work better.
To what, exactly?
(I’m honestly not sure what you mean).
Sure, I can swap the axle…but I already have the shortest cranks they make for that axle.
The system absolutely requires a cinch interface to work, unless you had some truly amazing CNC machines, lathes, and skillz.
(I’m honestly not sure what you mean).
Sure, I can swap the axle…but I already have the shortest cranks they make for that axle.
The system absolutely requires a cinch interface to work, unless you had some truly amazing CNC machines, lathes, and skillz.
Ok, here is the only clear description that I can find. The sprag clutch mounts to the custom spider via a special machined cinch interface. I can’t seem to find a technical drawing or exploded diagram, though.
@rideit Send it on that drill press of yours.
r2-bike.com
CYCLUS TOOLS Pedal thread Repairkit, 2,90 €
CYCLUS TOOLS pedal threaded sleeve A torn thread does not have to be a death sentence for your crank With manual skills, the CYCLUS TOOLS tool for pedal thr
r2-bike.com
Repair kit for pedal thread 5/8"x24 tpi (left & right)
www.vartools.uk
Exactly. I can only really bitch a tiny bit because overall, the system is the absolute finest, sensitive, and powerful out of all of the ones I have tried, on a geometry platform that I am so intimate with it feels like home. So yeah, the fact that the BB is a bit low is a manageable complaint, and one that I guarantee will be addressed by them, Race Face, or after-market, eventually.
But for now, I have a small case of the ‘early adaptor blues’.
One thing I am trying is running the MX/Mullet link, (with a 29” rear wheel) which raises the rear end fairly substantially, and running the Ride 4 chip in the lowest setting, but it feels really, really tall and funky. Like an old Beast of The East.
I just might, but my stable clamping system/skills are weak. It would be a hack job at best. And if you have ever ridden a crank that was drilled even the tiniest bit off…horrible.@rideit Send it on that drill press of yours.
CYCLUS TOOLS Pedal thread Repairkit, 2,90 €
CYCLUS TOOLS pedal threaded sleeve A torn thread does not have to be a death sentence for your crank With manual skills, the CYCLUS TOOLS tool for pedal thr
Repair kit for pedal thread 5/8"x24 tpi (left & right)
www.vartools.uk
Have you or has anyone contacted the motor manufacturer to see what their options are?
Seems to be a Canadian company, with the motor "designed in canada". I wouldn't be surprised if they picked that clutch out of some catalog. If the trail can be followed, maybe there is another option..
Seems to be a Canadian company, with the motor "designed in canada". I wouldn't be surprised if they picked that clutch out of some catalog. If the trail can be followed, maybe there is another option..
Well, they have an ’engineering relationship’ of some kind with Race Face, and want to pretend to be somewhat Canadian… 
(but I believe the motor also has some euro provenance?)
Pretty sure every last bit is proprietary, and we know how much people love than on the Monkey.
(but I believe the motor also has some euro provenance?) Pretty sure every last bit is proprietary, and we know how much people love than on the Monkey.
155 to 170 mm lenght, cinch interface:
Features:
• Built for Enduro and DH/Freeride and Dirt Jump bike applications
• Three-piece design
• 30mm crank spindle diameter
• Aluminum pre-loader
• Cinch chainring mount
• Four lengths currently available: 155mm, 160mm, 165mm, and 170mm
• Available for 68/73mm and 83mm bottom brackets
• Machined from billet 7075 T6 aluminum in Whistler
• Weight: 670g (170mm w/ 73mm spindle)
• Price: $420 USD
Daaaamn
Thanks, boys.
Timely.
However, as said in the comments
1.Heavy as fuck (not too concerned)
2.Expensive as fuck (Hope I can find them wholesale)
3. Might currently be vaporware
4. Inferior construction method (CNC)
5. Not 100% sure spindle length is compatible
The modified $125 option might still be the winner here.
EDIT: send them an email, will report back. They will be in QBP, so that helps.
Thanks, boys.
Timely.
However, as said in the comments
1.Heavy as fuck (not too concerned)
2.Expensive as fuck (Hope I can find them wholesale)
3. Might currently be vaporware
4. Inferior construction method (CNC)
5. Not 100% sure spindle length is compatible
The modified $125 option might still be the winner here.
EDIT: send them an email, will report back. They will be in QBP, so that helps.
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According to the shudder ebike site, a "regular" spindle designed for an 83bb shell will fit, so that NSB crank should slide right in.
How is CNC inferior? Thats how they are finished, but doesn't determine what they're made of.
Expensive is a relative term, especially considering its going on a secondary play bike that is worth $$. Or does that translate to no discount?
How is CNC inferior? Thats how they are finished, but doesn't determine what they're made of.
Expensive is a relative term, especially considering its going on a secondary play bike that is worth $$. Or does that translate to no discount?
When did a pair of 670g cranks become heavy as fuck? Not light, but seems pretty good for the designed application of Dowhnill/dirtjump. Don't get brainwashed by the marketing into thinking a single design parameter such as CNC'd is 'inferior'. For a low volume niche product it is most likely the ideal construction technique. Either way even if forged first the final product would still need to be finished on a CNC machine. It looks like that axle interface was literally designed to be machined.
I think he is referring to cranks that are forged and CNC finished, rather than only CNCed from a block of billet. The forged should align the grains better and provide higher strength.According to the shudder ebike site, a "regular" spindle designed for an 83bb shell will fit, so that NSB crank should slide right in.
How is CNC inferior? Thats how they are finished, but doesn't determine what they're made of.
Expensive is a relative term, especially considering its going on a secondary play bike that is worth $$. Or does that translate to no discount?
Sí, what 6th said.
As far as 'brainwashed', my current Turbine cranks are 175 grams lighter, and cost $175.
You think I am unaware of the rest of that, whippersnapper?
As far as 'brainwashed', my current Turbine cranks are 175 grams lighter, and cost $175.
You think I am unaware of the rest of that, whippersnapper?
Imagine how much lighter they will be if you drill a couple of 3/4" holes in them and cut off 20mm of length?Sí, what 6th said.
As far as 'brainwashed', my current Turbine cranks are 175 grams lighter, and cost $175.
You think I am unaware of the rest of that, whippersnapper?
Exactly my point, in some ways. A 155 crank should/could be wicked light. But again, as stated, that's not really a concern, just an observation for very expensive cranks.
They fail the Charlie Cunningham Equation.
They fail the Charlie Cunningham Equation.
the guy that "accidentally" an extra set of eewings complaining cranks that are less than half that price are too expensive?Sí, what 6th said.
As far as 'brainwashed', my current Turbine cranks are 175 grams lighter, and cost $175.
You think I am unaware of the rest of that, whippersnapper?
To be fair, one crank is rated from "XC to All Mountain" and the other is targeted towards enduro and dh. Which is fitting, as the first isn't offered with an 83mm spindle, for DH bikes.
And technically, could you not have forged billets of aluminum?
And technically, could you not have forged billets of aluminum?
Touché...but those are Light As Fuck
They conform to the C.C. equation.
I would never, ever buy those for an ebike, as standards are changing rapidly.
Have you heard of e-bikes?
Which is hilarious, as the JH bike park allows Ebikes now, even after hours.
But I ride my regular bike there, it's more funnerer.
Cleaning tech uphills (and catching air on step ups/water bars) is almost as much fun, however.
But I ride my regular bike there, it's more funnerer.
Cleaning tech uphills (and catching air on step ups/water bars) is almost as much fun, however.
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so does my bike park. why? i don't know.
it's funny seeing endur-bros with 52t cassettes and 28t chainrings in the lift line
Have to say, I am impressed, North Shore Billet sent me a reply within half an hour, they are going to try and verify with Rocky Mountain ASAP.
"Run what ya brung", I guess. I'm not gonna change my cassette and chainring for a few hours in the bike park, what with NW chainrings and clutches that work so well.
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Yes. The referenced RaceFace cranks are probably forged and CNCd, just with the forging you don't need to machine the complete surface to net shape, just areas that require high tolerances or for looks.To be fair, one crank is rated from "XC to All Mountain" and the other is targeted towards enduro and dh. Which is fitting, as the first isn't offered with an 83mm spindle, for DH bikes.
And technically, could you not have forged billets of aluminum?
For my own curiosity I tried to look up how much stronger "forged" would be. Lots of comparisons with cast vs forged parts as that is the most common method for high production rates.
However all I could really find to compare with billet or raw materials and there is no real official information other than "generally believed to be stronger". The best I could find is a Reddit post claiming that forged is 4% stronger in the orientation of crystal deformation. That isn't exactly trustworthy but assuming it is true it may not mean much as a crank sees forces in multiple directions that changes as the crank rotates. Also a billet is typically made from stock that is rolled which deforms crystal shape the same way a forging does so the difference is probably dependent on the actual part and likely very small.
The real advantage with forgings is for the manufacturer as when made in large quantities it is cheaper. However for small quantity niche products a forging would actually increase the cost.
So are real motorcycles.
Why don't you just step it up and poach your trails on a real dirtbike?
I have been far down the dirt bike rabbit hole, I just don't really like them. We have hundreds of miles of moto/ebike legal trails, no need to poach. Besides, you aren't going to poach the JH front country trails on a moto much before they call out SWAT teams. If you have been here you would understand what I mean.
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