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Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by Dusty Bottoms, Oct 21, 2005.
I'm sending my Hadley back for the 2nd time this year, no bueno.
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...man Chris King hasn't really been braking any land-speed records with new product development the past few years:
1.) ISIS Drive BB: Has been on their site since 2002 - nothing yet
2.) Chris King Wheelsets: Planned to release them in 2002 - nothing yet.
3.) 1.5 Headset: Last seen at Interbike by a RM member back in 2003 as a proto. King rep said they'd be out within 6 months - nothing yet.
So a 150mm rear hub from Chris King?.....
...remember how long it took George Lucas to film Episode I after Return of the Jedi?
I think that's the kind of timeframe we're looking at here...
Just curious as to what probelms you've been experiencing. I've got a Hadley 150mmx12mm on my wish list right now.
I called them looking for one for my V-10 back in May. The answer I got was that "there has been discussions, but no real plans yet" As a result, I went with a Hugi. It's been treating me real good so far.
First time about 8 months ago was a complete implosion. One(or two)of the bearings inside broke, and an internal o-ring broke allowing the innards of the broken bearing loose into the middle of the hub.
Second time, over the last couple weeks, the freehub has been sticking. So while coasting, the cassette will occasionally turn with the wheel, giving slack to the chain which drags on the ground. I'm surprised the chain hasn't whipped up into the wheel and sent me flying.
Anyway, Hadley DOES have great CS, the wheel is on the way and the problem will be resolved.
I think your problems are a special case, as Hadleys are usually extremely strong and reliable. I have a set of the hubs from 2002 with original bearings and they are money
Nope, it isn't. A teammates hadley hub has had to be rebuilt twice. Screwy bearings, breaking hub parts (rings, pawls etc).
They assembled mine without any ti prep, so the aluminum axle is fused to the titanium endcap now.
Sh1t happens, it's a DH bike. Deal.
Anything of that high end range for hubs usually the company is stand up, so they'll take care of you the best they can. Hadley/Hope/DT Swiss/King all will assist if there's a problem within their hubs.
But it's true though, if it's on a DH bike these hubs should/will outlast anything that's of a lower grade. With 150mm hubs out there and only a few companies making them (Hadley/DT Swiss/Hope) the quality is up there. DH bikes are just abusive on things, it's just how it goes.
as for the freehub, they do need to be serviced on occasion. Light oil is used for lube which breaks down and seems to let the nasties in. I had the same sticking problem, but it was due to my lack of servicing and probably letting my hub get a bit loose (lets in the dirt). If you ride alot i'd probably inspect every month or two.
i sent them an email asking and they told me to refer to their site....
well really, where the hell do you think i got this e-mail address from. so i dont think so, at least not anythime soon.
I have a brand new 135x10mm Chris King hub that wont fit on my new bike. I need a 150x12mm and have been looking for a new hub. I wish CK made one too. I have been thinking of getting a Hadley.
Anyone wanna trade a new CK 135x10mm for a new Hadley 150x12mm. Or buy the CK hub?
i just wish they would do a freaking 12mm bolt through 135mm spaced rear hub - ive mailed them about it before and the answer was "no plans"
you can convert a normall 135 mm king to 150mm spacing if you want to. my lbs has done it. they made a new shaft for it and used a spacer for the disc. as long as you dont mind the weight it would work with no problems.
Well, - CK does not appear to be developing many products....but on the other hand, the stuff they sell is top nice !
Dan, for what it's worth, CK does make Fun Bolts that really stiffen up the rear quite a bit...I did it on my Bullit (which is kinda flexy in the back) and it's been a noticeable improvement...However, it is a REAL pain in the ass to tighten them with the Fun Bolt set up (need to take of the rotor and use some tiny standard allen key) - and they do get loose when you're subjecting them to a DH kind of beating...
IMO, they're really not that great for DH applications...I have a 150 mm DT Swiss on my V-10 and it's been tits...
How can I get a hold of them? I wouldn't mind doing that.
I've seen it posted elsewhere (maybe here too) that the Brake Therapy guys have a 150mm conversion for King hubs. Drop them an email.
Hi, Brian from Therapy Components here (aka Brake Therapy).
We do have a couple conversions for CK hubs:
135 x 10 mm thru axle
135 x 12 mm thru axle
150 x 12 mm thru axle
Drop me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org
Can you post some more info on your King conversion kits. Maybe some pics too. I am very interested in the 135x10mm kit so I can run a Saint axle/der.
Sometimes I wish Therapy Components would update their site OR post here with their cool helpers because clearly people have been searching for this stuff for the days now. Good to know it's out there though!
last i heard king was predicting a 5 year product develoment for a bb when isis came out and thats been several years. so you can imagine how soon a 150 hub will be availabe.
yea i got the therapy upgrade done on my hub, using it on my 223 with a 150x12mm spacing works like it was made by king.
Man I can't understand the problems you are expriencing with your Hadley hub. Are you sure its not neglect (lack of maintenence) ?
I love my My Hadley hubs. They are bombproof and I've had no problems at all .
Personally I will never but a king hub over Hadley
their new site has been up for quite a while already.
Ill ask here, as there is interest for the conversion...
Do you have to redish your wheel with the 135x10mm to 150x12mm conversion?
Pros and Cons?
Actually, it turns out that the opposite of neglect might have been the problem. I am hyper-sensitive to my hub coming loose since the rear end on my vp-free is flexy to begin with. Anyway, when the hub comes loose I use the correct spanners to tighten, but apparently there is a very fine line between proper tightening and sandwiching the bearing which causes internal damage. I over-tightened which caused my problems. There is no real way to guage tightening with spanners, I'm fairly sure there is no such thing as "torque spanners".
So let this be a lesson to the Hadley owners, do not over-tighten your lock ring on the disc side of your hub. Suzanne at Hadley was very cool and explained that the lock ring should be tightened in "1 hour increments", if you look at the lock ring like a clock. I should have my wheel back at some point this week, re-built by people who know what they're doing.
props to you dusty bottoms for admitting you screwed it up, i think thats a first around here
email sent and questions asked.
How tight was yours? Mine is pretty tight, maybe I should loosen it
I'm assuming they answered your questions, so maybe you can answer mine. are they offsetting the wheel all the way to the drive side, and then just running a 15mm spacer on the rotor mount? I would think that if they centered the wheel, you may have problems shifting, as the derailleur is gonna have to reach another 7.5mm toward the center of the frame.
How much $$ are we talking for the conversion? King disc hubs are already serious cash, and there are alot of quality 150 hubs avaiable right now. Personally, I'd rather just run a DT Swiss/Hadley/Hope rear hub.
doesn't king make a tandem hub that measures out at 145 or 160? seems to me that hub may be the better cantidate for the conversion.
No they never emailed me back.
I called Brian.
The scoop is $150 for the kit. Also, wheel must be redished using different spokes. Hub must be QR as the funbolts will NOT work. They drill out the QR cap.
Not worth it for me. I need the QR axle, which is $100. So in the end;
$100 for QR axle from CK
$150 for conversion from BT
$50 for new spokes and new build.
TOTAL of $300
It would be a sweet deal if a guy had a QR axle for the CK rear hub.
FYI, I spoke with Suzanne at Hadley last week and, if I understood her correctly, they are working on a 150mmx12mm hub axle that has a bolt-on option to be available this winter. I guessing it'll be like their 10mm Ti bolt-on. I'll wait for that. Hopefully, I'm not just creating a rumor here.
Only benefit I see is you could run the saint derailer.
Again, if you look at the lockring like a clock, I'm guessing I tightened mine to about 3 hours shy of completely tight. Suzanne said to be careful of this, and that you can actually feel the lockring seat on the bearing if you are careful, and should tighten no further. Also, their new'ish lockring has a rubber ball in the middle of the threads which should aid against it coming loose, which should aid against people over tightening.
UPS just dropped my wheel on my desk. Ladies and Gentlemen, I shipped the wheel on Friday, they recieved Monday, I get it back Tuesday. Hadley had the wheel for 1/2 day, now that is CS.
I hope they actually cracked the hub open and fixed it!
I apologize for the lack of info on th ewebsite, and my slow response here. Iy gets difficult to keep up with everything.
But here are some pics of the 135 mm x 10 mm setup for use with the floating brake. The non floater setup just uses a 13 mm wider end cap (to make up for the floater).
The 12 x 150 obviously has an even wider endcap, and a 15 mm disc spacer (unless using our floater in which case the disc spacer isn't needed)
10 mm hole, all the way through
We make a new endcap, to replace the stock end cap of the qr axle.
While the floater endcap shown uses a pin spanner to tighten, the non floater units have wrench flats.
Here's the endcap. One improvement we made was to have the cap insert farther into the end of the axle, reinforcing the axle where it protrudes from the bearing, which is the weak point where the axles have been breaking
Here it is with the floating brake residing next to the hub, with the 10 mm thru axle