Anyone have experience with these?
- Thread starter spincrazy
- Start date
B
bighitfsr
Guest
I've used an Amoeba headlock, its the same thing as the Azonic.
It just replaces the star fangled nut in you steerer tube.
Works well, headset never comes loose, never caused any dammage.
Its basically a long bolt and a machined peice of aluminium.
The machined peice of aluminium sits in the bottom of the steerer and the bolt goes through the top cap on top of the stem and screws into machined peice of aluminium.
I cant see how it would cause dammage.
It just replaces the star fangled nut in you steerer tube.
Works well, headset never comes loose, never caused any dammage.
Its basically a long bolt and a machined peice of aluminium.
The machined peice of aluminium sits in the bottom of the steerer and the bolt goes through the top cap on top of the stem and screws into machined peice of aluminium.
I cant see how it would cause dammage.
is it possible that it could prevent ovilization of the headtube caused by loosened headsets?
if so, count me in...
damn headtube is about .75mm off of round...
if so, count me in...
damn headtube is about .75mm off of round...
I use the Azonic.....so that I don't have to replace a slightly pulled/misalligned star nut every other week... there's so much forces and twisting on double crown forks that star nuts just cannot take.... headlock has been doing me well so far....
Can you still put on a fender for those muddy days?
What a sec. Stress on the star nut?
If I remember correctly, the only thing the star-nut/top cap was for was preloading the headset. In fact I am sure you can take the top cap/bolt off after the headset is properly loaded. One just needs the stem to be torqued down properly. I know this is true for single crown forks, but don't see how it could be different on dual crown forks. Because once the stem is tighten down, the stress of keeping the headset preloaded is the burden of the stem. This is because in order for the top cap to recieve any stress, the stem must first slip. So the strength of the star fangled nut only really needs to be strong enough to preload the bearings, it is not designed to take additional stresses.
check this out:
http://www.canecreek.com/site/product/headset/info/faq.html#Anchor-H7
If I remember correctly, the only thing the star-nut/top cap was for was preloading the headset. In fact I am sure you can take the top cap/bolt off after the headset is properly loaded. One just needs the stem to be torqued down properly. I know this is true for single crown forks, but don't see how it could be different on dual crown forks. Because once the stem is tighten down, the stress of keeping the headset preloaded is the burden of the stem. This is because in order for the top cap to recieve any stress, the stem must first slip. So the strength of the star fangled nut only really needs to be strong enough to preload the bearings, it is not designed to take additional stresses.
check this out:
http://www.canecreek.com/site/product/headset/info/faq.html#Anchor-H7
fenders are gay.....can I say gay?
the top cap doesn't maintain the preload once the stem is tightened. The stem does that. the star fangled nut/top cap/nut system are used to compress the stem to set the preload on the compression ring in the headset. So slippage is acceptable in a dual crown system?
If the clamped interface of the stem and crown to the steerer tube could handle the axial forces dished out by a long-travel fork this would be true. However headsets use a cone to center the steerer in the bearing system. This means a good component of the massive radial forces are transferred axially. This is often enough to cause the clamp to slip. A headlock insures this won't happen in addition to provided more consistent preload that a SFN, with which there is some flex in the star leaves.
It is however a bandaid fix for a headtube that hasn't been properly faced or a headset that is not fully pressed, so if you're consistently having problems with the system lossening, check that first.
K
kitchenware
Guest
Novice is correct.
The star nuts job is done once everything is pulled tight and is torqued correctly. If you are pulling star nuts, then something is set up wrong, i.e. torques, tightening patterns or contact surfaces.
jim
The star nuts job is done once everything is pulled tight and is torqued correctly. If you are pulling star nuts, then something is set up wrong, i.e. torques, tightening patterns or contact surfaces.
jim
Ohio, can you describe these axial forces? From my understanding, an axial force is a load applied down the axis of a material/structure, I just don't see any. The only additional forces that I can see in a dual crown system versus a single crown system are: an upward force on the stem transtmitted through the upper crown via the stanchtion tubes, a shearing force between the upper crown and the headset. and another shearing force between the stem and the upper crown. And that's enough thinking for me now.
The same forces exist in a single crown system, the magnitude is just much greater from a long travel fork. For example take a cartridge style headset and assume the compression ring is at a 30 degree bevel from parallel with the steerer. That means, in a well-greased system, that for every radial force on the headset, there is a force of half that magnitude pushing up on the crown, stem and preloading device. This can exceed the frictional force of a stem clamped to a steerer. Since a SFN is much more flexible, it offers little support in addition to the preload force to prevent the stem from moving. A headlock is a much more rigid system (which actually makes it harder to adjust proper preload), and does a much better job of preventing slippage along the axis of the steerer tube.
However, the usual culprits for a headset that consistently loosens are poorly faced headtube or poorly installed HS cups, as I mentioned before.
However, the usual culprits for a headset that consistently loosens are poorly faced headtube or poorly installed HS cups, as I mentioned before.
Well... I've never had a problem with it, so I see no need.
I'll stick with the Star-nut for now.
how does a long travel fork produce/cause more upward force than a shorter travel fork? The only force that increases is on the headtube, and that is a torque trying to rip the headtube from the top tube and crush the down tube. This is because of hte increase in axel to crown length of fork, thereby increasing the lever arm of any force experienced by the wheel.
I have a Super T mounted to my Turner RFX. My stack height is pretty high because the headtube is relatively short compared to most DH/FR bikes.
I get some creaking going on between the stack spacers, so I have to tighten the entire system every so often. I wonder if the Head Lock would tighten up the stack and reduce the amount of creaking going on between the spacers?
I'm almost sold on it...
I get some creaking going on between the stack spacers, so I have to tighten the entire system every so often. I wonder if the Head Lock would tighten up the stack and reduce the amount of creaking going on between the spacers?
I'm almost sold on it...
yeah, I get that. What I don't get is how long travel forks produce more upward force than non-long travel forks. I can ride a long travle fork, then a non-long travel fork, the forces don't change. The spring rate is lower on the long travel fork because it compress farther. Hell, with a long travel fork I'll put less force on it because it jacks the front of the bike up, effectively loading more of my mass onto the rear wheel.
Um, not to be a jerk, but apparently you don't. I explained how radial forces can be transferred axially. Radial forces on the headset result from lateral and fore-aft forces at the dropouts. The further the droupouts are from the headset the greater the moment on the headset, the greater the radial forces are on the headset. Therefore long travel forks are more likely to cause a loosening headset. In most cases a star nut and the stem and upper crown are sufficient retention. In some cases (usually exaggerated by some other aspect of the setup) it is not.
Ummm... I get it!!!
It's not that hard to understand that the longer the flucrum (fork length), the more extreme the pressure on the head tube. Since headtubes are somewhere in the range of 30 deg from level (hence the 70 deg head angle), creates additional pressure on the top front face of the headtube and the back bottom portion of the tube (hence crushing of downtube).
I think I'm going to pick up one of those headlocks... It can't hurt.
It's not that hard to understand that the longer the flucrum (fork length), the more extreme the pressure on the head tube. Since headtubes are somewhere in the range of 30 deg from level (hence the 70 deg head angle), creates additional pressure on the top front face of the headtube and the back bottom portion of the tube (hence crushing of downtube).
I think I'm going to pick up one of those headlocks... It can't hurt.