Thanks for contributing to the thread!Just saw this thread and thought i'd chime in. Those are my pics on pinkbike referred to earlier in the thread. The spacer has been working out great for me for about 6 months now. I didn't figure this stuff out myself. Steevoo on MTBR.com took the time to figure out the ratios and machine himself a pretty sweet spacer.
I tried without the spacer at first and found the pull was off at either end of the cassette depending on cable adjustment. It seemed close but finicky. The spacer got the ratio tuned perfect. No discrepancy in chain/cassette alignment in all 9 gears.
You can see the pics of mine here... http://www.pinkbike.com/u/jwick/album/Shadow-Plus-Mod/
Believe me - I've thought about it. If I had my own cnc or mill I'd be filling up a bucket of them right now.agreep. If you were a wise man, you'd start churning those out, painting them black, and selling them at $15 a piece.
Got to the hardware store. Get a M5 bolt with 12-15mm of thread. A 1/4" square nut should almost slip over this bolt and will need just a second with a drill bit to smooth its threads out and slip over. These are usually just over 5mm thick so add a thin washer or two till the stack is 6mm. These parts can usually be found in random drawers at any bike shop so it's useful info in case someone breaks their 9spd Sram derailleur and can only find 10spd derailleurs available. Would have helped me at a race last year.I've also emailed a small machine shop specializing in bike parts, if they can knock up these adapters and sell them fairly cheap, I'll pay.
With or without a spacer on the original spot?After another play, I tried moving the cable to the other side of the bolt - and shifting got worse. I have perfect shifting with the cable in the original spot.
Either your chain is too long or you have a frame with a fair amount of CS growth and you have it set up to be able to bottom-out in first gear. If that's the case ask yourself if that's something you need to accomodate at the expense of a floppier chain.After another play, I tried moving the cable to the other side of the bolt - and shifting got worse. I have perfect shifting with the cable in the original spot.
What is apparent is how little cable is pulled between top and bottom, seriously never had a derailleur that is as sensitive to correct chain length. Ended up with having too much chain and winding the b knuckle out so as I have some tension in top gear. Im using a 11 - 26 cassette and a zee dh (rated for 11-28). If I did it again I would probably opt for a slx medium cage or use the derailleur rated for 11-36 - although with the same cage length I'm not sure how much it would help....
This sensitivity is what prompted me to ditch the washer stack i started using to try the spacer idea out. Just a slight rotation of the washers was enough to eff the situation up. The spacer is square and has a notch filed in it to keep the cable in just the right spot without fighting it. Simple but effective.After another play, I tried moving the cable to the other side of the bolt - and shifting got worse. I have perfect shifting with the cable in the original spot.
What is apparent is how little cable is pulled between top and bottom, seriously never had a derailleur that is as sensitive to correct chain length. Ended up with having too much chain and winding the b knuckle out so as I have some tension in top gear. Im using a 11 - 26 cassette and a zee dh (rated for 11-28). If I did it again I would probably opt for a slx medium cage or use the derailleur rated for 11-36 - although with the same cage length I'm not sure how much it would help....
Sticking with all the 9spd stuff and still getting to sample the clutch is what got me too.This is awesome. I can now run a clutch derailleur without having to buy a shifter, cassette, and chain as well.
Jwick - the 6mm spacer you had machined, will that 6mm correct the pull ratio on any Shimano 10sp clutch derailleur?
I wasn't planning on getting anything machined, just wanted to confirm that 6mm is the magic number. Your setup looks just as clean as the machined one, will definitely do something similar. Soon as I get my Paypal(aka: bike mod piggy bank ) money up I am going to grab a Zee dh mech and do this! Can't wait to get a clutch system without breaking the bank. The lockout switch on Shimano's clutch mechs will be an added bonus, making wheel removal moar easy. The Zee does have that feature correct? What has been your biggest benefit from it, no chain slap? That is the main draw for me, wish I hadn't stuck mastic tape all over my chain stays. Gonna be a bitch to clean the adhesive off and will probably never look the same as the rest of the bike!Sticking with all the 9spd stuff and still getting to sample the clutch is what got me too.
There is no need to have anything machined. Lelandjt has it covered a few posts ago. The 1/4" thick brass square washer I use just has a shallow groove filed down to achieve the .236" thickness that works so well. I use the same spacer on my xtr shadow plus and zee on different bikes. Shimano pull ratio is consistent within their mountain bike line (ie dynasys). Road bike 10 spd ratio is different.
Any source for a 1/4" thick brass square washer? Not seeing anything similar at McMaster etc. Thanks for the info on the setup...I have a Zee derailleur on the way.There is no need to have anything machined. Lelandjt has it covered a few posts ago. The 1/4" thick brass square washer I use just has a shallow groove filed down to achieve the .236" thickness that works so well. I use the same spacer on my xtr shadow plus and zee on different bikes. Shimano pull ratio is consistent within their mountain bike line (ie dynasys). Road bike 10 spd ratio is different.
Thanks. Fiberglass ones all are significantly thicker so looks like I'll be filing some steel!Look for square nuts, not washers. Looks like McMaster has various steel and fiberglass available. The ones I am using are brass which makes them easier to file a shallow groove in.
Nope that won't work, but you can use a 10sp zee, 9sp sram shifter, and a 9sp cassette. So if you've already got the cassette, and zee, you just need a 9sp sram shifter.can i use a 10spd shimano zee RD with a 10spd shifter in a 9spd cassette?
please i need your advice
used the nut off a gutter bolt and it worked well enough, only catch was the cable was going in at an angle so snapped mid race on me, nothing 10 minutes with a file wouldn't sort out.Thanks. Fiberglass ones all are significantly thicker so looks like I'll be filing some steel!
Instead of using a spacer to move the cable away from the pivot I run the cable on the other side of the bolt. I Dremelled a slot on that side just like the original slot. I experimented with a few spacer and cable location setups and observed whether the derailleur started moving too little or too far as it went up the cassette (small to big cogs). It's perfect now, staying a consistent distance from the next cog up.
All 3 bikes use this generation Sram shifters.
I've been using these for many years, previously with X9 derailleurs. They have the only shift indicators I've ever seen that are worth having. You can easily see exactly what gear you're in out of the corner of your eye.
The 3x8 XC bike uses a 11-28t cassette with XTR derailleur.
The 2x9 Enduro bike uses 11-34 cassette with XTR derailleur.
The 1x9 DH bike uses a 11-28 cassette with Saint derailleur.
And yeah, the clutch is awesome. I get way less skipping when trying to pedal hard while going fast over bumpy terrain. On the triple I no longer have to worry about dropping the chain. It's noticeably quieter. I love that I didn't have to get new cassettes, chains, and shifters to get the clutch.
Edit: My friend got his new Saint derailleur today but not the shifter yet. I hooked it up to his 9spd shimano shifter and dialed in the cable tension so he could use gears 5,6, and 9. Worked for a day of riding.
The Attack shifter is just like a Shimano 9spd (2:1) and shouldn't work with this setup unless you move the cable way closer to the pivot. The one-day setup we did on my friend's bike with a Shimano shifter resulted in cable pull that was way off and could only be made to work well in 3 gears. My 8spd bike previously had an 8spd Attack shifter and XTR 9spd derailleur. I had to really search to find an 8spd ESP (1:1) shifter for the new setup. It's labeled "Dualdrive".SRAM Attack guts work in those too, I have an X9 2:1 shifter, works fine, keen to open an X0 to see what you acn do with them as I really want extra adjustment.
Have you found that using a spacer vs a slot on the other side of the bolt results in better cable angle or some other advantage?FYI, I will have spacers to make Shimano clutch deraileurs work with Sram 9-speed shifters ready to go out by the end of the week, anodized black, complete with stainless hardware. I've tested these with Zee and XTR derailers and shifting is perfect across the range.
I've not looked into the fees I'm likely to get stung for using Paypal or shipping costs, but the hope is to do them for $20 including reasonable shipping costs.
It's certainly a lot tidier. I ran it with a homemade stack of washers for a while, but found the bolt would gradually loosen and fray the cable as there was nothing stopping it from rotating. The spacer I've machined fits into the derailer and locks in place, so nothing's moving.Have you found that using a spacer vs a slot on the other side of the bolt results in better cable angle or some other advantage?
Agreed that a measured fitted spacer is way better than a stack of washers/nuts/ect. My sloppy washer stack is part of what lead me to try moving the cable farther from the pivot by going to the other side of the bolt with a slot. I have had 1 cable snap right at the slot and you can seebthat it changes angles as the derailleur moves. I thought maybe my setup way flexxing the cable more than normal but a Shimano tech said they have seen a lot of cables snap right at that point with clutch derailleurs so it might not be just my methodIt's certainly a lot tidier. I ran it with a homemade stack of washers for a while, but found the bolt would gradually loosen and fray the cable as there was nothing stopping it from rotating. The spacer I've machined fits into the derailer and locks in place, so nothing's moving.
I'll be up in a week. Flick one across the bar at me.