[Nick]

I'm building up a non-dw DHR and I'm pretty much left with only buying a fork.

I always assumed I'd have a coil-sprung fork for the DHR so I was looking at the new r2c2, but with the '11 product now available the '10 stuff can be had at a good price. Was there anything really wrong or needing tweaking with the 2010 WC?

I don't race but love to ride fast, like to wrench so maintenance doesn't scare me, and spend a whole lotta days riding at the resorts (and will again this year). I currently have an '07 66 rc2x which I run on my bike at the resorts. Obviously a smooth feeling fork. I also have a '10 36 Talas rc2 which is the 'trail' fork for the same bike and which I also love but feels overwhelmed at high speeds. I don't know if that is due to the air spring in general or not.

What complaints, if any, did you have about the '10 WC?

 

[William42]

while I dont own one and don't have extensive time on it, I do have a 2010 boxxer team, so I'll comment on the damping (which as far as I know is the same). It works fine, but you'll hear lots of people b1tching about how when you add alot of compression, it gets really spiky in the high speed stuff. You have to run it off the rebound side, and increasing rebound damping will also increase compression damping by alot. There are happy mediums that work out, but the seperation between the compression and rebound wasn't as easy or intuitive as one could hope. The r2c2 (from the accounts I've heard) remedies this, and my roommate has one on the way, so we'll see how it goes.

Can't comment on the airspring, other then that i've heard its sticky.

 

[Nick]

My Talas is 'sticky' when compared to the 66, but I assume any air spring will be to some degree just due to air seals. Your comment on the rebound/compression issue is more of what I'm looking for. I hadn't heard/read that.

 

[LOOnatic]

The thing is that RS did revalve the damper for 2011 and change the solo air piston assembly.
When my 2010WC is lubed up is is not sticky. The oil volumes on the air side are low so if you dont stay on top of it i can see where it would become "sticky".
I would go ahead and grab a good deal on the 2010 and then change out the damper later on if your so inclined.

 

[HAB]

I too have a 2010 Team, and a little time on a WC. I actually like the Team better. The air spring felt wallowy on really steep. It just lacked the midstroke support of the coil. Damper is the same, so the only negative I see is the weight. And it's not a heavy fork.


I think the hot setup might be a 2010 Race with an Avy cart.

 

[Tdiddy]

Dunbar Cycles has the Race with Elka stage 4 cartridge already installed for sale for a really good price:

http://store.dunbarcycles.com/index.php?product=X-MAS+BOXXER+SPECIAL

 

[Jeremy R]

I too have a 2010 Team, and a little time on a WC. I actually like the Team better. The air spring felt wallowy on really steep. It just lacked the midstroke support of the coil. Damper is the same, so the only negative I see is the weight. And it's not a heavy fork.

I agree. The 2010 team rules.
There is a quite handsome gentlemen selling a practically new one here in the classifieds.

 

[Nick]

I saw that Jeremy.
What are you replacing your fork with?

 

[Jeremy R]

I saw that Jeremy.
What are you replacing your fork with?

I am running a 180mm Kalula, so I am going to put on a 180mm Fox Vanilla.

 

[miuan]

I'm having a 2011 solo air installed into a lightly ridden 2010 team. Should I choose to install the solo air to current damping stanchion tube so I minimize the consequences of spring rub?

Also, will the 2011 solo air fit 2010 stanchions? My LBS didn't have a clue when ordering me the parts, and I fear there may be a straight wall stanchion needed for 2011 solo air cart.

Quote from spare parts catalog:
11.4015.363.020 Upper Tube Straight-Wall, Left - 2011 Boxxer (compatible only with 2011 Boxxer Solo Air Spring and Top Cap)