[Elise]

I purchased Azonic Outlaw Wheelset from Mail order (Jenson USA) and I need advice on assembling the rear wheel. I think I have conversion parts that are not machined correctly. I have two converters (reducers) that come with the wheel. One converter reduces the 20MM hub to acomodate a 12 MM axle and the other converter reduces the 20 MM hub to a quick release set up.

My problem comes in when I try to assemble the 12 MM reducer As I tighten the bolt by hand, I am able to tighten it to a point where the free wheel no longer turns freely. If I back off the torque, I feel the wheel will come apart. It seems like the supplied hardware is 1 or 2 MM too short and is this applies pressure on the freewheel. When I compare the length of both reducers, I see it is a little shorter. Instead of tightening onto itself it tighens against the freewheel.

As a test, I tried it with the quick release set up, and all tightens nicely. When I tighten this reducer, it applies no pressure on the freewheel and it turns freely.

Should I return the wheel or is there a quick fix?

 

[BrooklynMachine]

It sounds like your 12mm conversion pieces are too short, though the threaded portion of the conversion axle should bottom out against the bearings but not actually load them. Are you sure you bearings didn't shift while disassembling it?
Are you assembling it with the hex portion of the axle on the freewheel side?

FYI, the design is basically an exact copy of a (Hadley save for the disc side preload ring on the Hadley). So the same tech manuals should apply.

 

[BikeMike]

If one of the pieces is shorter than the other, can you try swapping them --i.e. put the longer one on the freewheel side and the shorter one on the disc side?

I'm also slightly confused by your post...the Outlaw design may have changed in the last 2 years, but my set has a front hub that converts between 20mm and QR, and a rear that converts between QR and 12mm through axle.

 

[ultraNoob]

My set is also a front 20mm to QR and a rear 12mm to QR. Make sure the jamb nut for the outer bearing race is present and tightly jammbed against the outermost bearing race (aka, the inner bearing race)

In the 12mm mode, you should be able to stick your finger inside the cavity and be able to spin the inside portion easily. There should be little or no up/down, left/right, in/out play whatsoever. If there is play (excess movement other than rotational), it is likely that bearings are not preloaded propertly and are over tightening as you install your reducer insert.

Photo's of what you got would also help us understand your situation. If you don't know how to post a pic, just ask. Welcome to Ridemonkey.