Beginner mechanic....
- Thread starter stosh
- Start date
I would say yes.
You gotta be more specific bro, what are you looking for sizes of?
You'll need to know:
Front der size.
Clamp diameter and top or bottom pull, which is different from top/bottom swing.
Seatpost size
Cassette 8 or 9 speed will fit most modern wheels.
Headset 1 1/8" no doubt.
Bottom bracket:
either 68mm or 72 mm. Spidle length is dependant on what crank you use.
Any bike shop can help you out with these measurements. Just don't be surprised if they ain't to happy if you ask them to do it all for free if you use mail order parts only.
If you try to get these measurments yourself, check Trek's website for specs or buy some calipers, not brake calipers but measuremnt calipers.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Front der size.
Clamp diameter and top or bottom pull, which is different from top/bottom swing.
Seatpost size
Cassette 8 or 9 speed will fit most modern wheels.
Headset 1 1/8" no doubt.
Bottom bracket:
either 68mm or 72 mm. Spidle length is dependant on what crank you use.
Any bike shop can help you out with these measurements. Just don't be surprised if they ain't to happy if you ask them to do it all for free if you use mail order parts only.
If you try to get these measurments yourself, check Trek's website for specs or buy some calipers, not brake calipers but measuremnt calipers.
Hope this helps and good luck.
I read another post by you and see you visit your lbs regularly. I'm sure they will help you out.
Calipers are one of my favorite tools. I don't really get to use them often, though.
Calipers are one of my favorite tools. I don't really get to use them often, though.
Digital? Digital?! You kids have it so easy.
you'll also need to know the head tube lenght, stack height of the headset and of the stem clamp to make sure your steerer tube is long enough. I usually use a tape measure to measure the length of the head tube, add the length of the stem clamp and add about an inch for the headset and spacers. It's important you don't cut the steerer tube too short or you'll never be able to use that fork. Figuring for a couple of extra spacers above the stem is way better than not having enough steerer tube to clamp the stem to.
And once you decide what gearing to use you'll need to figure out the right chain length, on a hardtail it's pretty easy, I believe you wrap the chain around the largest cog and the largest chainring pull it tight, add two links, break it, and then install it.
And once you decide what gearing to use you'll need to figure out the right chain length, on a hardtail it's pretty easy, I believe you wrap the chain around the largest cog and the largest chainring pull it tight, add two links, break it, and then install it.
turn youre trek into a single speed.......cut all the other crap!
If you wanna save a few bucks wo/loosing performance, I'd suggest the following - I like decent stuff but I don't like paying a lot - that's an impossible combination, so . . .
What matters most? Fit, safety, reliability. Anything else is really not necessary, but can add to your cycling experience - for a price. We all know that part of enjoying this sport is "having the cool stuff". Big freakin' deal - I say ride more often, & take the money you'd have saved on the ultra-high zoot stuff and . . . and, I dunno . . . get the large container of onion dip instead.
From my point of view (determined by economic and non-racing conditions), the goal is to ride often rather than having a fancy, hardly used bike.
I gotta go ride - see ya.
- Get LX cranks - same as XT except for color and the granny gear is a few grams heavier (steel vs. aluminum) - this might save you $40 - use XT for everything else (shifters, f/r derailleurs) (or XT equivalent) - get rid of the stupid granny gear & adjust your front derailleur - who uses that thing anyway? You might wanna consider getting separate shifters & brake levers - this will give you more options when possibly upgrading to hydraulic disc(s) later.
- get one of these - super de dooper for not much dough: Syncros headset at Nashbar
- get a decent saddle & grips (two most important parts after drivetrain) - I really like the Ritchey dual compound grips - I hate riding a bike with cheap grips - you can find a Selle Itallia Flite saddle for about $45-49 - many people like the grips which lock onto the bar - I've never tried them, but they sound like a great idea.
- I love the Rhyno Lite (sp?) rims - very sturdy, inexpensive - sure, they're a bit heavier but remember what John Tomac (?) said "light, strong, cheap - pick two and you won't have the other one" (am I close on that quote? is that who said that?) - I like this true philosophy which keeps me in the middle of the road as far as spending. For mountain bikes, I think many (not all) "middle weight" components are more durable than more expensive, lighter ones (wheels, seatposts, stems, bars). When one of these fails, it's always after you're 10 miles from the trailhead and you have to walk/limp it back) - reliability wins over more expensive, lightweight stuff more suited for racing types (dat aint me - I ride for the enjoyment).
- I've found Shimano 515's for $25-30 - they're decent pedals and can be used on road bikes too (not the best for road use, but hey, I'm very cheap)
- Brakes? I love discs, but I'm sticking with rim brakes - if you buy the Rhyno Lites with XT disc hubs (what I did) you have the option of upgrading to discs later. No doubt disc brakes (at least one up front) will improve your braking experience, but again, if you want reliability, less weight and cheap - rim brakes are the way to go . . . check out the weight of these brakes and then check out the price . . . these wheels (w/XT disc hubs) can be obtained for about $150/set . . . true them, ride for a short distance and check/true them again when new - then every month or two thereafter is fine
- Ditch the oingy-boingy fork and use a rigid fork - you can find a great, 1 1/8 rigid for for about $25 and perhaps save 2 pounds (or more?) off the front end of your bike - (& yeah, I realize nobody will agree with me on this - but your bike will climb like a billy goat if you get fork lockout or a rigid fork)
What matters most? Fit, safety, reliability. Anything else is really not necessary, but can add to your cycling experience - for a price. We all know that part of enjoying this sport is "having the cool stuff". Big freakin' deal - I say ride more often, & take the money you'd have saved on the ultra-high zoot stuff and . . . and, I dunno . . . get the large container of onion dip instead.
From my point of view (determined by economic and non-racing conditions), the goal is to ride often rather than having a fancy, hardly used bike.
I gotta go ride - see ya.
Thanks old dude!
I already have a headset front shock and seatpost. I was probably going to get v-brakes and thoes are damn cheap from Nashbar. I'll have to get stuff through them.
I was undecided about the BB and cranks so I'll look into the LX stuff.
I already have a headset front shock and seatpost. I was probably going to get v-brakes and thoes are damn cheap from Nashbar. I'll have to get stuff through them.
I was undecided about the BB and cranks so I'll look into the LX stuff.
Stosh, old dude pretty much covered it, I'll just add one more thing:
eBay!! You can get some good deals on components. Good place to unload stuff, too. Check it out, and be sure to check feedback before you pay.
eBay!! You can get some good deals on components. Good place to unload stuff, too. Check it out, and be sure to check feedback before you pay.
Buy some good grease, too. And some anti-seize compound. When in doubt, grease it all.
Make sure you have the correct tools for your BB, headset, pedals, cassette, etc. Also keep a copy of a good repair manual around, or just get your keyboard greasy while accessing the parktool.com repair database.
Putting together a bike is pretty simple; you'll get through it just fine if you've already done the individual tasks required.
It gets more difficult if your frame is absolutely brand-new, in which case you might require threads to be tapped, BB and HT to be faced/reamed/chased/whatever...and in the case of F/S and some unusual bikes, components sometimes need to be filed/spaced and what have you in order to fit.
But a Trek 8000 should go together easily for ya. Just go slow and think about your plan of attack before starting anything. As long as you've spec'd the proper size components, nothing should need finagling to bolt together and the chainline should be perfect. Enjoy!
MD
Make sure you have the correct tools for your BB, headset, pedals, cassette, etc. Also keep a copy of a good repair manual around, or just get your keyboard greasy while accessing the parktool.com repair database.
Putting together a bike is pretty simple; you'll get through it just fine if you've already done the individual tasks required.
It gets more difficult if your frame is absolutely brand-new, in which case you might require threads to be tapped, BB and HT to be faced/reamed/chased/whatever...and in the case of F/S and some unusual bikes, components sometimes need to be filed/spaced and what have you in order to fit.
But a Trek 8000 should go together easily for ya. Just go slow and think about your plan of attack before starting anything. As long as you've spec'd the proper size components, nothing should need finagling to bolt together and the chainline should be perfect. Enjoy!
MD
I pretty much agree with Old_Dude's suggestions (did I say that? 
) except for ditching the granny ring. That's sort of like removing low gear from your car. I think you have hills where you ride...
On grease:
The anti-seize is for anywhere steel screws into aluminum. Use ordinary grease elsewhere, and don't overdo it.
J
) except for ditching the granny ring. That's sort of like removing low gear from your car. I think you have hills where you ride...On grease:
The anti-seize is for anywhere steel screws into aluminum. Use ordinary grease elsewhere, and don't overdo it.
J
Oops - my bad. I think you're correct on who was quoted . . . did I get the quote right? Close? Somebody around here has that as their signature, I think.
Same rule applies to women - with a little twist . . .
- Light Figure
- Can Handle Strong Drinks
- Cheap
And of course, you can quote me on this one too . . .
Well this was a good thread....Originally posted by Old_Dude
Oops - my bad. I think you're correct on who was quoted . . . did I get the quote right? Close? Somebody around here has that as their signature, I think.
Same rule applies to women - with a little twist . . .
- Light Figure
- Can Handle Strong Drinks
- Cheap
And of course, you can quote me on this one too . . .
They always are when you start themOriginally posted by stosh
Well this was a good thread....
.
which Ironhorse do you have?