[Jm_]

Well I may have destroyed the frame in the process. Crank bolt was jammed on there, so I got a big breaker bar socket wrench, but as I went to try and turn it, the allen in the socket somehow fell out and into the BB. WTF? So I have to go and get a backup long allen wrench of the same type, but even with a breaker bar extender (pipe) I can't get it to budge. Try hitting it with a soft mallet, that does nothing. Can't find my metal mallet, but I find my hatchet, so hit the backside of the hatchet against the allen, trying to break it loose. Just as I finally get it to break loose, for two blows, somehow, even though I'm trying to be careful not to do this, it rebounds against the frame, like the santa-cruz test videos, but it doesn't look nice like those, two hits, one may have some delamination. F*ck. So I sand away the clear coat, put some epoxy on there, wrap it with some stretchy tape to help press the epoxy in there. The only not-so-bad part is this is a cheap chinese frame that cost around 400-500 in the first place, so not that big of a loss, but F, this went bad quickly. BB bearings appeared smooth too. Threaded BB interface seemed a bit crunchy.

Well, cleaning out the BSA threads and the crank/chainring interface fixed all the cracky-creakyness. Just goes to show BSA is no silver bullet.

 

[Electric_City]

Well, cleaning out the BSA threads and the crank/chainring interface fixed all the cracky-creakyness. Just goes to show BSA is no silver bullet.

But it was fixed by doing some common maintenance. That can't be done with a press fit.

 

[StiHacka]

Well, cleaning out the BSA threads and the crank/chainring interface fixed all the cracky-creakyness. Just goes to show BSA is no silver bullet.

I highly doubt "dirt in the BSA threads" caused any creaking.

 

[roflbox]

DUB, ofc

 

[slimshady]

Well, cleaning out the BSA threads and the crank/chainring interface fixed all the cracky-creakyness. Just goes to show BSA is no silver bullet.

Especially when your eagernesss to ride makes you forget to tighten it to spec after changing the bearings

 

[Lelandjt]

Best option is the one that nobody is using yet. BB392

You get the wide bracing angle advantage of BB92 and you run the bigger PF30 bearings to better accommodate 30mm spindles.

And there's a threaded version of it if you demand threads. This is the standard I chose for the road bike frame I helped design because it gave us the most welding area. I really can't think of anything another standard offers that this one doesn't.
If it sounds unfamiliar that's because in the road bike world (where it's actually used) it's called BB386. The threaded version just adds a T47 at the end to indicated the thread diameter. For what it's worth, we haven't had to switch to the threads because the press-fit version has been creak free.