You can mess things up by running it too slack, which will allow the rear wishbone to contact the seat stay. This won't really mess p the pull rod though. On any given ride, the constant motion tends to wreak havoc with the threads. There are two designs (old and new) for the pull rod. The old one is a single piece that turns around the rod. It tended to develop play over time and blow out the threads. The new design has a lock ring on the top and bottom of the main turnbuckle. Mostly solved the problem of the first design. What happened to mine (new design) was that the lock rings would jar loose, which then allowed the turnbuckle to rattle a bit, chewing through threads. I had a less than capable local machinist replace a pivot, only when he was done it no longer acted as a pivot - all the stress snapped the pull rod in half. I should have sent it back to Frank the first time. In the end I got it done right by The Fix in Whistler (Kudos to them!). They now have the schematics for a fixed dogbone piece in place of the adjustable pull rod, so see them if anything goes wrong.Just wondering how it gives out? Do the internal threads just strip over time? Or is it when we run it too far out (slack I guess) that the threads just give?
I'm hopeful mine doesnt give out.
Ahhh Grasshopper...one must truly ride an Evil to truly understand the Evil.Holy crap look at the BB rise in the Evil, that would suck in corners!
You don't need to, high BB, no frame flex= useless bike. Riding an alloy frame with a big fork at the moment and it sucks, can't wait to get back to a chromoly frame, thinking something nice and low this time like a Surge.Ahhh Grasshopper...one must truly ride an Evil to truly understand the Evil.
Say whaaa.../mc dix... the Evil was stupid and it still is. It may be fine if you don't actually want to ride