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Best Hardtail Freeride Bike

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Marcus

Chimp
May 26, 2002
36
0
Surrey
And here's some old builds of my first Imperial:

Monster'd:



SS:




One of my old fav's... just ripped:



And the very first build, just threw parts on to ride her:



Can't find any pic's of it with a Shiver or the SC Shiver but not hard to imagine.
 
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I'm after one of these, and I must ask the question... can you rise the seatpost and pedal a few km with them, or it's just too awkward?
I once calculated (for a bike like the evil imperial) it would require ~41cm of seatpost to have a decent leg extension... don't know if that's what I should expect or I forgot to carry the one. :think:
Also, being unfamiliar to some of the brutal slopings posted here, I wonder if it's possible to guide the frame with your legs/knees/tights or you have to rely on your pedals (perhaps the saddle too) for "low area control".
 

rigidhack

Turbo Monkey
Aug 16, 2004
1,206
1
In a Van(couver) down by the river
Just wondering how it gives out? Do the internal threads just strip over time? Or is it when we run it too far out (slack I guess) that the threads just give?

I'm hopeful mine doesnt give out.
You can mess things up by running it too slack, which will allow the rear wishbone to contact the seat stay. This won't really mess p the pull rod though. On any given ride, the constant motion tends to wreak havoc with the threads. There are two designs (old and new) for the pull rod. The old one is a single piece that turns around the rod. It tended to develop play over time and blow out the threads. The new design has a lock ring on the top and bottom of the main turnbuckle. Mostly solved the problem of the first design. What happened to mine (new design) was that the lock rings would jar loose, which then allowed the turnbuckle to rattle a bit, chewing through threads. I had a less than capable local machinist replace a pivot, only when he was done it no longer acted as a pivot - all the stress snapped the pull rod in half. I should have sent it back to Frank the first time. In the end I got it done right by The Fix in Whistler (Kudos to them!). They now have the schematics for a fixed dogbone piece in place of the adjustable pull rod, so see them if anything goes wrong.
 
May 5, 2011
1
0
This is my DMR Trailstar, more DJ than freeride at the moment. I'm looking to get some longer travel single crown forks and a front brake!
 

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HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,794
7,152
Ahhh Grasshopper...one must truly ride an Evil to truly understand the Evil.
You don't need to, high BB, no frame flex= useless bike. Riding an alloy frame with a big fork at the moment and it sucks, can't wait to get back to a chromoly frame, thinking something nice and low this time like a Surge.
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,794
7,152
No, because I have some common sense, hardtails with high bottom brackets don't hit corners like they should and stiff hardtails don't give you as much traction as a more compliant hartail.

For the last 7-8yrs I've owned pretty much only 6" travel hardtails and I now know what I like and a tall stiff hardtail most certainly ain't it. If you don't have a rear shock and you have a bash guard you don't really need early 2000's freeride dually BB heights.

Take a look at BTR, Surly Instigator 2.0, NS Surge, 2Souls they all make capable frames with BBs in the sane region, the Evil was stupid and it still is. It may be fine if you don't actually want to ride and just want to talk to all the weirdos that it attracts or want something to ride to get the milk but I don't see the point.
 

ChiliPepper

Chimp
Sep 30, 2009
66
0
Upstate, SC
Definitely not the top dog, but she is my baby and has held up to some serious beating on dirt and in the concrete jungle jumping and hucking. She has a white Domain fork on her now...

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