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BMX Brakes

Discussion in 'BMX & Dirt Jumping' started by Bicyclist, Oct 22, 2005.

  1. Bicyclist

    Bicyclist Turbo Monkey

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    OK so heres the deal:
    I need some brakes on my BMX bike, I've come really close to getting hit by cars numerous times. So I threw on some cheapo Diacompe 996 brakes and they suck. They barely work, and they are run with a straight cable. So I want to replace the whole brake system with someting powerful. I've heard good things about Odyssey Evolvers and Linear Slic Cables. Also, what levers provide the most power? I'm looking for a suggested setup that inclues the lever, cable/housing/brakes/pads. Thanks!
     

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  2. Lennart

    Lennart Chimp

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    Evolvers, maybe E-brakes (Primo) with DirtHarry levers? I run a dual cable setup, so i don't know too much about single/slic/linear cables.. Oh yeah, if you're going with the Evolvers, then replace the brake pads with KoolStops, Evolvers own pads kinda suck..
     
  3. Changleen

    Changleen Paranoid Member

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    With any U-brake it's always down to how well you set it up. It can take a long time to get it right. It's a matter of tweaking the crap out of it. It can take a long time.
     
  4. pnj

    pnj Turbo Monkey till the fat lady sings

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    yep, 996's work as well as any other brakes when set up correctly..

    however, that is just part of the equation. what lever are you running and what cable?

    1. make sure the lever doesn't bind when pulled/pushed (unhook the cable and move it w/ your hand.
    2. get a lined cable, like the slic cable (4 bucks is an awsome price for a great cable)
    3. LUBE EVERTHING. lube the cable well, I use tri-flow, works great. lube the posts on the frame where your brakes go.
    4. clean the brake pads. if they are very old, use sandpaper or something and remove the old layer. then position the pads so they hit the rim correctly.
    5. clean the rim. I use window cleaner or simple green or something..

    that's about it. your brakes should work just fine...
     
  5. triumphbc

    triumphbc Chimp

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    1.) chrome rim
    2.) toe in the pads and adjust so they both hit the rim at the same time
    3.) nice linear cable, and lube it
    4.) rough up the pads a bit with sandpaper/file
    5.) clean rims with rubbing alcohol and scrubbing pad

    I have the Evolvers and they rock. I'd also disagree with Lennart on the Odyssey pads. The 1x4's which come with the Evolvers work great. I tried a pair of Salmon Kool Stops and was really disappointed. I think they're overhyped. They stopped great but made tons of noise, I'll take my 1x4's any day.
     
  6. Bicyclist

    Bicyclist Turbo Monkey

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    I have chrome rims, they're clean, the brakes/pads are setup properly, the cable is oiled, but the pads are old Redline pads. And I don't have a lined cable. I'll start there. I'm using a Dia Compe Tech 99 lever, so I don't think I would gain power by switching to a new one.
     
  7. clint4130

    clint4130 Chimp

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    You can't gain power by switching up your setup. You can make the brakes feel stiffer by changing parts that reduce flex, but this does not make the brakes more powerful, it only changes the feel. The brake you are using is one of the more flexy brakes on the market. Linear cables would make the brakes feel stiffer. I think you should buy a quality set of brakepads, they are essentially the one part that can make the most difference in the brake system. I don't know the quality or shape of your redline pads, but I'd reccomend you pick up a set of koolstop eagle 2 pads in either the salmon or black compound. You really need to make sure you are setting up your brakes properly (I know you said you did), even a properly set up, low quality brake system should stop you quick enough to stay clear of cars.
     
  8. Changleen

    Changleen Paranoid Member

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    Actually reducing flex totally improves braking. Think about it - If a part flexes as you brake, energy that could be pushing the pad against the rim is being used to flex the component instead. If you can switch out to less flexy parts, (i.e. parts that are strong enough to resist flexing under the load applied) a greater percentage of your energy is transfered to the rim / pad interface, hence more powerful braking. That's one of the main reasons Hydraulic brakes are so effective. Hydraulic fluid (all fluids) are incompressable and the design of calipers is generally very low flex. Nearly 100% of the power you apply to the lever is transfered to the pad and disc.

    Edit: Or you could stop messing with cable actuated brakes for good:



    Since then I've tweaked (hacksawed and filed) the setup a bit so the brake booster is tighter round the tyre and therefore more effective. Not that it needed to be, it just looks nicer.
     
  9. Leethal

    Leethal Turbo Monkey

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    The most likely culprits are adjustments and brake pads... you said the brakes were new did you deglaze the pads?

    If you go to the www.unionstreetbikes.com website and hit uf the FAQ section there is a great link to dialing in u-brakes...