[ScarredOne]

I just managed to shear the bottom cup my FSA Orbit Xtreme Pro II in half (separating the bearing retainer portion from the upper portion in the head tube) this past weekend.

I see the only route to go now is a King Steelset. It looks like they still only use a simple o-ring in the upper race to keep things tight, however. So the solution would be:

-just use the lower CK headset cup and anything else for the upper

-buy _____ headset instead

-???

Nobody seems to talk about headsets much. What do you all use? TIA.

 

[Kanye West]

Had some headset cup issues and just got a King Steelset. Been flawless for close to a year now. Not even a creak or loosening up once. It's the last headset you'll ever have to use.

I'd like to know what reducer headsets still have pretty deep insertion for a 1.5 headtube - the Cane Creek XXc flush headsets no longer have deep cups like I had on another frame. 10mm insertion over the width of a ~50mm headtube doesn't cut it for me.

Honestly if King made a deep-cup steel InSet reducer headset, I would buy one in an instant. Fvck the weight, I will take the reliability of knowing that it would be the last thing I'd ever have to press into my headtube.

 

[ScarredOne]

So you're using the upper Steelset race with the o-ring in it and have had no loosening problems, Hacktastic? I distinctly remember hearing of quite a few problems with this retention design on DH bikes in the past.

I hear ya on the minimal insertion on internal bearing headsets nowadays. I've got a Cane Creek XX Flush II sitting on my desk right now because I didn't like how shallow it was. The piece of mind of having a steel internal bearing deep cup would be awesome.

 

[Steve M]

I just managed to shear the bottom cup my FSA Orbit Xtreme Pro II in half (separating the bearing retainer portion from the upper portion in the head tube) this past weekend.

I see the only route to go now is a King Steelset. It looks like they still only use a simple o-ring in the upper race to keep things tight, however. So the solution would be:

-just use the lower CK headset cup and anything else for the upper

-buy _____ headset instead

-???

Nobody seems to talk about headsets much. What do you all use? TIA.

Those Orbits do that, it's not that you're necessarily all that hard on the headset - I replaced one last week that'd done exactly the same thing. The reality is that pretty well all headsets are actually alright; there are a few duds (you happened to have one of them unfortunately) but generally speaking you don't actually have to be that fussy, in my experience. The FSA Pig DH Pro is a good budget option, but yeah if you're willing to just get a CK lower cup and use whatever up top so you can use a proper compression ring then that is most likely the best setup.

Hacktastic - the E13 zero stack cups have pretty deep insertion, close to an inch I think. I've been running em for about about 7 years and other than eventually killing bearings (ok first set took close to five years!) they've never given me any trouble at all.

 

[dilzy]

FSA Pig DH Pro as S suggested. All I ever use, its heavy but it is strong.

 

[Polandspring88]

So you're using the upper Steelset race with the o-ring in it and have had no loosening problems, Hacktastic? I distinctly remember hearing of quite a few problems with this retention design on DH bikes in the past.

I've had a Steelset on my bike for the past 3 or so years with no performance issues. Has no noticable loosening problems. Only side issue would be getting it out...if that was even possible.

 

[RMboy]

Nicolai Fett headset! or Reset Racing headset. Only 2 that will last you a long long time.

Oh and Pig DH too, is awesome for the money!

 

[Iridemtb]

Nicolai Fett headset! or Reset Racing headset. Only 2 that will last you a long long time.

Oh and Pig DH too, is awesome for the money!

Wow.... That Nicolai Fett headset has really really deep cups.

 

[Lelandjt]

Canecreek makes a steel headset too. The Tank Jump. I use it on my big bikes after breaking 2 aluminum cups in the same way you did.
However, I've since learned that both cups I broke were 6000 series aluminum and that 7000 series used Canecreek 110 is stronger. I'd be tempted to try one of those since the steel headsets are heavy.

 

[ScarredOne]

However, I've since learned that both cups I broke were 6000 series aluminum and that 7000 series used Canecreek 110 is stronger. I'd be tempted to try one of those since the steel headsets are heavy.

Actually, my broken FSA Orbit Xtreme Pro II is forged 7075 T6 series aluminum; I'll gladly take the weight hit of steel cups to avoid failures. If this was to happen during an upcoming Whistler trip, it would be way more inconvenient.

 

[Lelandjt]

My 2 steel Canecreeks have been foolproof. I think I'll only run steel on bikes with long forks that I like to land front wheel first sometimes. Just to set the record straight, a deep cup headset solves the problem of ovalizing headtubes. A steel headset solves the problem of breaking cups. These days headtubes are pretty thick so deep cups aren't necessary.

 

[FoesDHSMono]

My King Steelset has been working great with no problems for over a year now. I highly recommend it. The headset is definitely bombproof and will probably outlast your frame.

 

[Zark]

FSA Pig DH pro or the Cane Creek Tank ought to do the job

 

[Lelandjt]

FSA Pig DH pro or the Cane Creek Tank ought to do the job

And they're cheaper than the King and have a split wedge.