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Boost adapters

maxyedor

<b>TOOL PRO</b>
Oct 20, 2005
5,496
3,140
In the bathroom, fighting a battle
Cue the lizards....

Looking at swapping my frame, but forgot that I need to sort out my hub situation. I have Industry 9 torch hubs with their fancy Al spokes, new frame is boost and requires the wheel to be dished 3mm to the non-drive side. Can this be done? Will the Wolf Tooth boostinator do what I need? Can't really find any worthwhile info, nobody has an answer other than buy new wheels, and I'd really rather not, I'd go so far as to say I won't, new wheels are a deal breaker.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,504
In hell. Welcome!
Even with a boost adaptor, you will likely need to re-dish the wheel. Whether that can be done with fancy Al spokes, I don't know. I have a positive experience with Hadley boost conversion.
 

velocipedist

Lubrication Sensei
Jul 11, 2006
559
702
Rainbow City Alabama
Thinking that may be how I have to go, hate the idea of just adding moar shimz, but I guess it'll work.
I rock a set for my mega shred smash dogg. Usually just the front as the Smash Mullet™ is the shit. Few 100 grams at most, when you have a swank wheelset. Get lighter pedals too? I am a fan of Deity Bladerunners, around 390 grams.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,850
9,556
AK
The MRP adapters look really nice and their site says no dish required. https://www.mrpbike.com/better-boost-adapter-kits/

-Brett
I'm not sure where the myth comes from that you need to re-dish your front wheel using boost adapters. 99.9% of everything out there on ebay and amazon is two EQUAL width spacers you put on OPPOSITE sides of your hub. That means no re-dish, because it's already centered. You have to space over your brake rotor, which works as long as it's not centerlock. If it's centerlock, the MRP is the only solution (there is a centerlock boost adapter made in germany, but it doesn't work, not engineered correctly). It requires you to use at least a 180mm brake rotor, but it's pretty trick because it spaces the brake caliper over to the rotor, rather than the other way around. I can't seem to remove my DT swiss end-caps though and their suggestion on how to do this is completely unrealistic, so I just use the ebay spacers with it.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,504
In hell. Welcome!
If you don't need to swap wheels between non/boost bikes, conversion kits that require re-dishing are better as they get the rim centered between flanges with even spoke tension on D/ND sides. If you need to swap wheels, dealing with the rotor spacers is a major PITA but still not as bad as re-tensioning the wheels.
 

maxyedor

<b>TOOL PRO</b>
Oct 20, 2005
5,496
3,140
In the bathroom, fighting a battle
I rock a set for my mega shred smash dogg. Usually just the front as the Smash Mullet™ is the shit. Few 100 grams at most, when you have a swank wheelset. Get lighter pedals too? I am a fan of Deity Bladerunners, around 390 grams.
Not so much the weight that concerns me (already ditching teh carbonz for Al), it's the thought of loosing axle shimz in the dirt while changing a flat. Couldn't get a straight answer out of i9 about just running boost endcaps on the non-boost hub, seems their argument against it was the rotor shim resulting in too much leverage on the disc flange. I don't see why, if that were actually a concern, one couldn't shim the brake caliper instead, or better yet make a 3mm wider brake adapter. Kind of an expensive gamble to order a set of caps just to find out if they work.

Think I might consume copious amounts of whiskey and try re-dishing my rear wheel 6mm and see what happens, i9 seemed semi confident it would work. That would allow me to just run the Boostinator with a rotor shim and call it a day.

Wish I still had access to a metal lathe, managed to convert my Yeti's front wheel from QR to 15x110 TA easy enough, the boost swap would be even easier. Sadly all I have in my garage is a stupid mill, I did not choose machine tools wisely.




The MRP adapters look really nice and their site says no dish required. https://www.mrpbike.com/better-boost-adapter-kits/

-Brett
That's front wheel only, they don't do a rear for some reason. Chainline is my best guess, but honestly shifting chainline by 3mm is no big deal, just don't use the granny gear as much, problem solved.

Keeping my fork because 20x110 is the TA size of the gods, keeping this thing until they switch head-tube sizes again.