Bos Idylle Rare Setup tips?
- Thread starter richgardiner
- Start date
Nope. It doesn't. BOS use the 12mmx14mm. I think Fox is 12.25? Anyway Fox is larger more common. BOS need this because of the needle roller kits.
Pot luck with the rebuild I think?
No, the bloke told me before I booked it in that he knows a trick to shut her up.
I found some combination of different oil and different rebound valving made the notorious squeak go away. Mine used to have it as well, but it's gone now. Can't say exactly what eliminated it unfortunately as it's been a while.
It helped for two days and then same problems returned. I sent fork to Yt-Industries in Germany and they send it to service (dont know where). Its been over two weeks and I have not heard anything of it. Hope it comes soon and is ready to ride...
Well, sh!t.
Maybe it's better to deal with SportsNut directly?
They are service partner of BOS in Germanien.
Hope you get your fork soon!
Maybe it's better to deal with SportsNut directly?
They are service partner of BOS in Germanien.
Hope you get your fork soon!
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To get to the final air pressure you have to increase pressure in 10 psi steps and compress the fork as hard as you can for 10 times in-between the steps. This fills the negative-air chamber. Otherwise the fork will feel harsh even at low pressure.
If that doesn't work it could be that the valve between the two chambers isn't working correctly. Then you have to send the fork in.
My buddy had similar issues but after we followed the instructions it works now as it should.
manuals:
http://s14.directupload.net/file/d/3194/yr5qpbfi_jpg.htm
http://www.bosmtb.com/uploads/media/RaRe2011EN.pdf
If that doesn't work it could be that the valve between the two chambers isn't working correctly. Then you have to send the fork in.
My buddy had similar issues but after we followed the instructions it works now as it should.
manuals:
http://s14.directupload.net/file/d/3194/yr5qpbfi_jpg.htm
http://www.bosmtb.com/uploads/media/RaRe2011EN.pdf
Attention,
the compression settings in the BOS manual of the rare coil are inncorrect for the air version!
The air version needs less damping than the coil version.
Coil:
High speed comp: -15
Low speed comp: -10
Air:
High speed comp: -18
Low speed comp: -15
Trust me: It makes a huge difference.
the compression settings in the BOS manual of the rare coil are inncorrect for the air version!
The air version needs less damping than the coil version.
Coil:
High speed comp: -15
Low speed comp: -10
Air:
High speed comp: -18
Low speed comp: -15
Trust me: It makes a huge difference.
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But changing the HSC ist still: Tighten (anticlockwise) =close / harden and Undo (clockwise) = open / soften
Maybe just a language barrier
Thanks for your help
But changing the HSC ist still: Tighten (anticlockwise) =close / harden and Undo (clockwise) = open / soften
Maybe just a language barrier
Thanks for your help
Hmm language barrier perhaps, but no.
Clockwise = Add compression (HSC and LSC)
Anti clockwise = Less compression (HSC and LSC)
In the case of the RaRe fork, when you turn the HSC knob clockwise to add compression, the knob comes out of the fork, because the thread is reverse threaded.
Out of interest, are you French?
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I have had BOS RaRe Air couple of months. I was very happy to the performance but now I have got a feeling that the rebound does not work 100% correctly. It feels like the rebound is faster than it should be. If I turn the rebound to the max the fork is still "rideable". It think it was not like that when the fork was new. Now I have to use more rebound than before.
I increased couple of weeks ago the air pressures like 15-20psi. I am not sure if it has something to do whit this issue. Would it be possible that the negative air is causing the problem? Or the damper side does not work corretly, what might be wrong? I would like to fix this issue myself if possible, because it usually takes so long at official service.
I increased couple of weeks ago the air pressures like 15-20psi. I am not sure if it has something to do whit this issue. Would it be possible that the negative air is causing the problem? Or the damper side does not work corretly, what might be wrong? I would like to fix this issue myself if possible, because it usually takes so long at official service.
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Did this change come suddenly? How much air pressure do you ride?
If the fork's only rideable with the rebound fully closed, something might be wrong. The fork is normally slooooow in that setting.
If the fork's only rideable with the rebound fully closed, something might be wrong. The fork is normally slooooow in that setting.
I cannot really say if it changed suddenly. I have 180 psi at the moment.
I could remove the damper and check it out. How much oil I have to put in the damper leg? I found some instructions for the old RaRe but maybe the RaRe Air has different amount of oil than the old one.
I could remove the damper and check it out. How much oil I have to put in the damper leg? I found some instructions for the old RaRe but maybe the RaRe Air has different amount of oil than the old one.
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This fork is the bomb, I cannot even believe how smooth and supple it is. Seriously, anybody with doubts need not worry, this thing is the real deal. I have never EVER had this much traction and stability before. This blows everything out of the water. The part i like the best is that it has nearly zero stiction, its so supple and smooth its unreal. This thing moves when i ride it on pavers across the parking lot!
*the A2C is a bit on the short side compared to a marzocchi 888, just as a heads up.
*the A2C is a bit on the short side compared to a marzocchi 888, just as a heads up.
You could try adding some more oil 10ml to the damper. increased pressure can increase the damping. But first you need to figure out why (maybe contact your distro?) your fork has changed?Have you bled the air lately?
The problem is that i can't find the original oil
Normal high quality, correct viscosity oil will do the same job.
BOS doesn't make magic fairy dust oil with a mix of unicorn horn, they just have control of the quality.
BOS doesn't make magic fairy dust oil with a mix of unicorn horn, they just have control of the quality.
0.1% performance, 100% internet horsesh!t mate
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I let all the air come out of the fork. Then I set it back to 180psi and now the problem is gone.
You seem know more than BOS makers. Would you like to tell us your secrets? Otherwise you're only guessing.Normal high quality, correct viscosity oil will do the same job.
BOS doesn't make magic fairy dust oil with a mix of unicorn horn, they just have control of the quality.
0.1% performance, 100% internet horsesh!t mate
Bos seem be anal to get anything to work so I rather follow their recommendation. Im sure it is possible to source biodegradable oil somewhere since it must be a few sources after all.
BOS don't publish the viscosity of oil they use so "using the correct viscosity oil" is easier said than done. Thankfully a few sources seem to confirm that the oil is just Kayaba 01, which has a viscosity of 15.6cSt@40*.
Two points here - one is that BOS is the only company that doesn't provide oil data, it's a bit of a silly thing to keep secret (Ohlins/CC, Fox, RS, Marzocchi all provide this) - but second and more importantly, the KYB01 oil actually has a very low VI number of 150. This is fine for a high volume open bath fork, however it is insufficient for a rear shock and would cause excessive damper fade with temperature change. I've heard that they use the same oil for everything, but it'd be a rookie mistake to use the 01 in a shock. I feel there is something missing in the information getting around.
Of course this doesn't matter for servicing the fork, but for anyone doing shocks, I'd suggest going with a known high-VI shock oil of similar viscosity (Silkolene RSF and Redline are a good bet).
For the fork, replacement fluids very close to factory spec (15.6cSt/150VI) are:
- Maxima Fork Fluid 5wt
- Torco Fork Fluid 7wt
- Motul Fork Oil 2.5wt
- Golden Spectro 85/150
Two points here - one is that BOS is the only company that doesn't provide oil data, it's a bit of a silly thing to keep secret (Ohlins/CC, Fox, RS, Marzocchi all provide this) - but second and more importantly, the KYB01 oil actually has a very low VI number of 150. This is fine for a high volume open bath fork, however it is insufficient for a rear shock and would cause excessive damper fade with temperature change. I've heard that they use the same oil for everything, but it'd be a rookie mistake to use the 01 in a shock. I feel there is something missing in the information getting around.
Of course this doesn't matter for servicing the fork, but for anyone doing shocks, I'd suggest going with a known high-VI shock oil of similar viscosity (Silkolene RSF and Redline are a good bet).
For the fork, replacement fluids very close to factory spec (15.6cSt/150VI) are:
- Maxima Fork Fluid 5wt
- Torco Fork Fluid 7wt
- Motul Fork Oil 2.5wt
- Golden Spectro 85/150
The lack of information about oil weights was always my biggest complaint about BOS. So thanks for the Kayaba hint.
They seem to use different oils in forks and shocks though.
http://webshop.sports-nut.de/ItemView.action?number=BO-OIL-9001
http://webshop.sports-nut.de/ItemView.action?number=BO-OIL-9002
I´m not going to buy any of this bargain but try and compare the oil used in shocks with commonly available oil.
They seem to use different oils in forks and shocks though.
http://webshop.sports-nut.de/ItemView.action?number=BO-OIL-9001
http://webshop.sports-nut.de/ItemView.action?number=BO-OIL-9002
I´m not going to buy any of this bargain but try and compare the oil used in shocks with commonly available oil.
I was only suggesting which oils numerically match the KYB-01 which BOS has recommended in the past. The post below agrees with what you say, and it generally takes more than a few cSt to make a noticeable difference, so perhaps they are making a poor / inaccurate recommendation. They really just need to publish the viscosity in cSt of the stock fluid - hiding this information just makes it difficult for owners.
I heard they are now using Racingbros seals.
Anyone got any info pls help...!
Another question:
Did anyone note a difference in used travel while riding in hot temperatures?
I rode a few days in Livigno and without changing the setup I didn't get quit as much travel out of the fork as normally.
And the trails there are steep, like really steep.
Did anyone note a difference in used travel while riding in hot temperatures?
I rode a few days in Livigno and without changing the setup I didn't get quit as much travel out of the fork as normally.
And the trails there are steep, like really steep.
I sent you a PM. But what the hell. If you read elsewhere in this thread you will get the oil weight. You want between 90mm to 100mm (depending on model) oil height when the stanchion is fully compressed and the plunger is fully extended. You have to know though, BOS has one of the most advanced suspension dyno's in France, the oil is just part of what you are paying for in the fork. You can get away with any old 10wt, but if you are paying the money you are better off getting the real oil from your local distro.
BOS finally has updated their manual for the Idylle DH Forks:
View attachment BOS Idylle Air manual 2014 eng.pdf
View attachment BOS Idylle Air manual 2014 eng.pdf
Well, that is somewhat ridiculous...