[Rhubarb]

I am heading back to South Africa next month so I will be riding my Jedi with Boxxer again. Last time I was home I really felt like there was an issue with the drop stop in my Boxxer where I couldnt get the last bit of travel unless I slammed a big flat drop or really botched a landing big time. I asked around a little and I got one responce that the length of the drop stop is a bit of an issue and people were cutting them down. Is this corrrect? Any one cut theirs and how much?

 

[kidwoo]

All that 'stopper' is, is an MCU type bushing. If you've had your spring out, you've seen it. Try cutting half an inch off and see how that works.

Burp your damper side leg too. It's amazing how much built up air pressure in there will hinder travel. Just start unscrewing the top cap and you'll likely hear a hiss. It acts like a very small volume air spring (IE ramps up quickly) and any additional pressure in there makes a big difference.

 

[HAB]

What he said. IIRC I ended up cutting about 1" off mine. It's just an elastomer stuck in the spring. Fairly uninspired system to say the least.

 

[Rhubarb]

cheers guys. yeah I have seen it and I thought it was long before I got word to maybe cut it. Definatley works cause I really need to slam the fork to get full travel. Just wasnt sure how much peeps were chopping off. Will sharpen the knife and get cutting next month, will also check thr damper chamber for trapped air. Cant wait to be back on the DH rig.

 

[Sandwich]

I had cut the MCU in half in my original fork, it was the only way to get more than 7" of travel out of it. Even then it was iffy.

The 2011 R2C2 was not nearly as bad, and I never cut the MCU. If you have a 2010, go for it, or even try removing it entirely, as those forks were so poorly put together you may have a bad one.

 

[al-irl]

i had a 2010 team and while i never had a major problem with using all the travell. I took mine out just to see what all the fuss was about and couldnt believe the difference it made. The fork was much more supple and i was able to run some compression damping as with it i had all the compression backed off. It never saw the inside of my fork again

 

[BigBoi]

i had a 2010 team and while i never had a major problem with using all the travell. I took mine out just to see what all the fuss was about and couldnt believe the difference it made. The fork was much more supple and i was able to run some compression damping as with it i had all the compression backed off. It never saw the inside of my fork again

I too have a 2010 team and have the stiff spring in it (black) but should since i weigh 240 lbs.
However, the fork is not supple at all. I'm getting the correct sag and using all the travel but it just doesn't feel supple whatsoever, even with no LSC, HSC or drop stop. I have considered moving down to the next softer spring (blue) even though it is intended for riders weighing 180 to 200 lbs.

You (al-irl) and others are suggesting that I can remove the drop stop all together.
Are there any drawbacks to this? This seems too easy.

 

[StabprimoMonkee]

BigBoi: your feeling might have more to do with too little compression than too much.

 

[climbingbubba]

Bigboi - I think the spring ratings are way off and for the 2010's it was made worse by a few of the other issues they had. I weigh 190 and had the yellow (soft) spring in for a while and still was only getting 25% sag or so.

This drop stop thing is interesting. Me and my friend are having the same issue right now. both of us tried hard to bottom out our forks. Even after overshooting a 10 tall by 20ish feet long table top to flat I still didn't use all the travel. We are both only getting around 5.5-6" of travel at most

Would you guys suggest cutting it down or just removing them all together?

 

[Sandwich]

Cut it in half, you can reinstall it if you're worried. Remove it entirely if half doesn't work.

The spring rates of the early 2010s were messed up. At 200 lb I was on a medium(yellow) spring....I think.

 

[nh dude]

If your '10 feels like poo take it apart like everyone says and re lube / add oil. Then set it up.

I wish I had done that in May and not in August, but it felt good before too. Fork feels way better especially on chop small stuff, feels like I let 3 or 4 psi out of the tire. This could also help figure out your actual sag better. If you inners are dry its your not gonna have a good time. And you could end up under compensating your spring weight to get the right sag but have a soggy ride.

Also got rid of the drop stop. At 160 I was taxing the yellow spring with out it but again couldn't get full travel with it in along with the yellow spring.. Moved up to blue, wish I had done that sooner. I do occasionally bottom with the blue spring. First time I looked at the fork the drop stop had been chewed apart by the spring. stupid idea. coming off a 40 for 3 years really I like the new boxxer after 6 months.

 

[phycoref]

Friend of mine was having similar problems when he had his boxxer, no small bump compliance, didn't feel supple, didn't feel nice overal. He removed the drop stop and used a lighter weight of oil in the lowers (the lighter weight oil in the lowers made him need to move up a spring rate) and he said it helped quite a bit. Either way in the end he ended up selling it and got a 2011 Fox 40...

 

[Sandwich]

I had the same problems listed above. Small bump compliance was non-existant. Medium bumps and large bumps were fine, but there was stiction that prevented movement on anything not big enough.

I had a friend at an LBS contact RS, and they replaced the entire thing with a 2011 RC2C. That fork was worlds better with the same spring and settings, though it made a wheezy noise. If it's particularly bad, try getting an LBS to contact RS.

 

[Raingauge]

I have an early 2010 team and I took it apart right out of the box. Lubed it with slick honey on the bushings/seals and put 2.5wt oil in the damper. On the spring side run the red spring and no drop stop. I am only 165lbs and get full travel. Its got good small bump compliance, ramps up nice and you can fine tune the adjustments easily.

We monkeyed with the oil weights, shims and springs on my buddies 2010 Race and its worlds better. It was like an old mag 21 before we rebuilt it.

 

[kidwoo]

(the lighter weight oil in the lowers made him need to move up a spring rate)

Huh?

The lowers just hold lube oil, if there was that much friction his fork was pretty messed up.

 

[Rhubarb]

When I first got on the Boxxer it felt pretty tight even comming off my Totem. I figured it was just because it was new and needed breaking in. Never noticed it getting better. Basically pushing down on the bars the fork doesn't seem to compress very smoothly. The funny thing is, on the trail if feels really composed and just sees to ride over everything. I have been off the Jedi for about 6 months but looking forward to riding it again in a couple of weeks. I have opened it up and lubed it which does help, little bit of dry grease in the seals is never good. I will see how it rolls soon enough and I will remove the drop stop for comparrason and then go from there.