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Brake Cables Part II

ohio

The Fresno Kid
Nov 26, 2001
6,649
26
SF, CA
Keeps gunk from sticking to them, which keeps them running smooth for longer, and less prone to corrosion.

Differences between housings? Some are unsealed and some are sealed. Even sealed ones wear out and get contaminated eventually, but they last longer. If you don't like changing your cables, get the sealed ones.

Also, some housings are lined with teflon or plastic of their own. Similar effect to coated cables.

And last, some housings come in cool colors or braided metal outers. Purely a fashion statement (and a damn good one at that!). Braided metal is nice on hydro lines as it toughens them up, but it can tear up your paint.

That's all I can think of. I almost always just use standard cables, mostly because I need them on short notice and get them at the LBS.
 

VTinCT

Flexmaster Flexy Flex
Sep 24, 2001
355
0
Lost in the woods...
Originally posted by ohio
I almost always just use standard cables, mostly because I need them on short notice and get them at the LBS.
Word! I find that with good maintenance you can run standard cables/housings for a good long time with no problems!:D I've had a little experience with the Gores and their ilk, but for the $$ I wasn't floored by their performance over the good ole LBS stock.
Later lady!

:monkey:
 

VTinCT

Flexmaster Flexy Flex
Sep 24, 2001
355
0
Lost in the woods...
Originally posted by MtnBikerChk
Do I hafta worry about sizes? I mean between cables and housings - and ferrules.
No, just be sure they give you brake housings and cables!;) And get the metal furreles.

But again MBC, I am worried that no matter what, with your routing not giving you a place for the furreles (set up for hydro lines) you will experience some lag in your brakes' responsiveness due to an inability to create good cable tension....looks like a hey of an excuse for a new frame!:sneaky:
 

spincrazy

I love to climb
Jul 19, 2001
1,529
0
Brooklyn
Originally posted by VTinCT


No, just be sure they give you brake housings and cables!;) And get the metal furreles.

But again MBC, I am worried that no matter what, with your routing not giving you a place for the furreles (set up for hydro lines) you will experience some lag in your brakes' responsiveness due to an inability to create good cable tension....looks like a hey of an excuse for a new frame!:sneaky:
You can, however, buy cable ferruls that go around your frame tubes and give the necessary cable tension like I have on my bike. you know, that funny looking little piece on my top tube near the seat tube?
 

I Are Baboon

Vagina man
Aug 6, 2001
32,841
11,063
MTB New England
Originally posted by VTinCT


No, just be sure they give you brake housings and cables!;) And get the metal furreles.

But again MBC, I am worried that no matter what, with your routing not giving you a place for the furreles (set up for hydro lines) you will experience some lag in your brakes' responsiveness due to an inability to create good cable tension....looks like a hey of an excuse for a new frame!:sneaky:
(this is MBC too lazy to log out and back in)

I hear ya VT - but for now I'm not too concerned with that. My brakes kicked in today - whoa, what a stop!

I'm making a nice collection of parts for my rockhopper cuz I'm gonna make her my play bike. I'm picking up stuff (cables and such) as I go - and that frame, my friend, has the right cable guide thingy!

What do you call the little caps that go on the end of the cables?
 

bomberz1qr20

Turbo Monkey
Nov 19, 2001
1,007
0
Originally posted by I Are Baboon


(this is MBC too lazy to log out and back in)



What do you call the little caps that go on the end of the cables?
Those are the ferrules. There are actually a few different kinds. Old school road bike shifter housing is very thin, hence smaller ferrules. MTB brake and shifter housing is usually the same thickness.

Some companies like Avid, etc, make a sealed system with special ferrules that have a thin extended tube from the center that a sheath fits over to seal the cable inside.

Fooey I say!!

I use BMX brake housing by Oddessy. Slic, I think it's called. The LBS near my kids school sells it for $3.00 for a package w/ 60" of cable and teflon lined housing, with the ferrules. Works great for my Hayes mechs.
 
The other thing about housings is that if you ride seriously (can you say crash frequently?) the usual reason you replace housings is that they're kinked, and it happens pretty often.

I regard that as another argument for plain old ordinary whatever your LBS has in stock.

J
 

rfemurfx

Chimp
Jun 6, 2002
78
0
durango
the thingys that go on the end of cables are called "end caps". the thingys that go on the end of housings are called "ferrulles".

there are two size housing for der's. 5mm and 4mm housing. if you can, always use 4mm. they are more flexible and offer a better seal for the cable. if you dont want a big hassle with different cables and want nice super smooth shifting, use a shimano stainless steel cable and lubricate it with Joni-snot. just use small dabs as you feed it thru. 5mm housing is the only option for mechanical brakes, but the same applies.

different brands of housing are just different brands. just make sure if you are buying brake housing to get some that are lined. that means that the inside of the housing has a plastic sleeve (not teflon) that allows the cable to run smooth.

if you really want to seal the ends of your der. housing buy some "rain coats" made buy shimano. i know you've seen them. alot of new bikes use them on the last rear der. loop. its a little boot that fits on a tube like extension from the ferrulle. similar to the one discribed above.

since it seems to me that somebody's cable was getting hung up, check the cable routing and make sure your cable is not frayed.