They're great. I've just got more than 1 bike.wtf. whats up w/ your formulas? Saints all the way, yo.
I've got the last gen Ones and really like them performance wise, but they are a bit more maintenance than others, and eat pads pretty fast.Easy, new style Saints. Besides that I'd get the V2's over the Formulas for reliability and modulation though. I think the only place the Formulas win out is weight.
Sorry for the jack, do your hope brakes work in the wet? I have Motos and whatever the new ones are called and neither stop when wet, I have used both Sintered and organic genuine pads and they just don't work when wet.I have been using Hope Moto V2s for the last season and a half and they have been really goo. Best brakes I have ever used, though having said that I havn't used Saints or Ones. So my oppinion is effectivly null and void.
The only problem I have had so far is that when the pads get worn down a bit (like only a 1/3 of the original material left) the bite point can become a bit inconsistent. Easy fix though, just bung in some new pads.
Cool. One question on the way outboard pivot- I tend to run my brake levers pretty far inboard. Kind of freekishly so, since I've got pretty big hands. I'm running some older Shimano brakes and have the levers in as far as they will go. Anyway, do you think the pivot placement will be problematic, given that preference?Saints. They're not perfect but they have so much power that I really don't care much about their flaws.
The good:
- Power
- Lever blade is super comfy
- Power
- Tool-free reach adjustment
- Power. Even when the pads are glazed.
- They're Shimano, you can get parts and pads everywhere.
- They're really powerful
- Bleeding them isn't rocket surgery
- Harder to overheat than any other brake I've used
Bad:
- The lever reach/bite point changes itself from time to time (including mid-run) and I have no real idea why.
- Occasionally they howl, seems to be when wet
- The bite point adjuster just makes the lever throw notchy instead of actually doing anything productive
- It can be pretty hard to get all the air out of the master cylinder when you're bleeding them, it seems to get trapped around the bite point adjuster
- Pads are really expensive, as are the brakes themselves
- The lever pivot is a fair way from the bar. Not exactly the end of the earth.
- They're really powerful. Just kidding, that isn't a bad thing.
no. I typically run mine in WAY close to the bar. My hands are medium sized and I'm not very good, so I tend to be on the brakes a lot. Mine have been 1" or less from the bar, and they do just fine. I imagine that braking may be better at the "optimum pivot point" but that's bupkus.Cool. One question on the way outboard pivot- I tend to run my brake levers pretty far inboard. Kind of freekishly so, since I've got pretty big hands. I'm running some older Shimano brakes and have the levers in as far as they will go. Anyway, do you think the pivot placement will be problematic, given that preference?
quit bragging.I've got pretty big hands.
Perhaps because people are buying the Saints and not the Formulas?Plus the formula pads are relatively cheap. I see them in more and more shops; my LBS is more likely to have 24 mm Formula sintered pads in stock than Saint pads. YMMV.
Check universalcycles.com as well. They have discounted shipping and the "vip15" code will get you 15% off orders over $300. I got mine that way, and saved a boatload.btw if you're purchasing retail, ebay has a french dealer selling 2010 Ones w/ adaptors and rotors (your choice of sizes) for 249 bucks including fast shipping.
I'm "that guy". In the OCD spare parts way, not the "I have 4 DH bikes and spend so much time showing them off online I don't actually ride" way.careful with the definition of "parts availability"...it's not being able to find what you need that I'm concerned with, it's being marooned at a ski hill and being able to get back on the mountain. There's a much larger possibility of finding shimano brass olives at say, plattekill, than formula parts. I guess if you're the kind of guy that carries full set spares (or a full identical bike like Demo 9) then you're set, but I can't afford/don't want to do that, so I take SOME comfort knowing that I may be able to replace what I don't carry on-mountain.
I'll do that, plus cables, hoses, fittings, brake pads, and a wheelset.I only take replacements for expendables to races.... rotors, derailler, tires, tubes,
:knocks on wood:
I'm considering getting a spare wheelset, most likely a duplicate of what I currently have, and keeping mud (or other alternate) tires mounted on them. I hate having to stop riding to change tires.I'll do that, plus cables, hoses, fittings, brake pads, and a wheelset.
Still Hadleys on Arrow rims?I'm considering getting a spare wheelset, most likely a duplicate of what I currently have, and keeping mud (or other alternate) tires mounted on them. I hate having to stop riding to change tires.
nah those got sold. they may have been heavy, but they were bombproof.Still Hadleys on Arrow rims?
I'm really digging my Saint hubs. Going to relace on 823s after nuking my 5.1 rear rim last weekend.nah those got sold. they may have been heavy, but they were bombproof.
on outlaws now.
Why the Stealths? I mean, the silent instant engagement is cool, but don't they weigh about 5 tons? And what's the complaint on Shimano hubs? They're not that expensive, they've got good bearings, and they're pretty durable.I've never been too crazy about shimano hubs. I kinda wanna save my pennies and lace up 823's on hadleys, but then again also sorta wanna try the stealth hubs. Or I could just stay on outlaws for a lot less money.
just to try something differentWhy the Stealths? I mean, the silent instant engagement is cool, but don't they weigh about 5 tons?
only hubs I've ever had fail on me were shimano. granted they weren't high end ones. but still.And what's the complaint on Shimano hubs? They're not that expensive, they've got good bearings, and they're pretty durable.
How? I have blown up a couple XT freehub bodies, but it's been a while.just to try something different
only hubs I've ever had fail on me were shimano. granted they weren't high end ones. but still.
I can still get them through the shop, it's just a matter of having to order from someone we wouldn't normally bother with unless we need something we can't get from QBP. Like this.a) CRC for cheap shimano goods. Get some friends and put together a $250 order for free shipping.
I don't think saints are overkill for the rear, I have plenty of modulation before lockup.
I don't give a crap about cosmetics, and they look like the same levers, except in different colors, so they should feel about the same. But I'm realizing dealing with different pads and whatnot could be a PITA. I'll just get another Saint.Oh word...well it's up to you whether you want matching brakes and levers or if you don't care. I will say I don't think the 810s are overkill in the rear; they may have more power than necessary but you can rarely have too much power in your brakes so long as they modulate well.
I haven't tried everything out there so I don't want to say they're the best yada yada, but I have no complaints after a season, and they school my gustavs, hopes, hayes, I've owned and Louise, juicies, and BB7s I've tried.