[Husar]

I have broken my first chain and ended up walking my bike out of the trail. I had no extra links to fix it or tool. I will be more prepared next time.

But my question is now that it is broken should I ditch it and buy a new one or try and fix it?

Cheers,

Ed

 

[Phreaddy]

If it's worn out, either from regular, extensive use or from misuse (do you cross-chain? Bad boy!) then it should be replaced. If it's not worn out, but you merely had luck, then fix it. When in doubt, ask at your LBS.

 

[Heidi]

If it is not replaceable - at least use it to practice fixing. I mean, get your little chain tool out and remove a link and reattach it and all so that if it happens again you won't have to walk.

 

[Husar]

The chain is only 2 months old and came with a new bike. But since it came with the bike I don't have any extra links to fix it. When you buy a new chain do they come with extra links?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Carbon Fetish]

My feelings are... if you break a chain you probably have multiple weak links and should replace the whole thing. New chains come "long" to accommodate all different size frames/chainstay lengths so all you have to do is match up your old chain with the new to get the right length.

If you are missing links, here is a way to figure out the correct length. For road bikes: run the chain on the big ring in the front, through the smallest cog on the cassette and through the derailleur. Pull the chain until the derailleur pulleys are at a 90 degree angle to the ground and remove the excess links. For mountain bikes: run the chain on the big ring in the front and the largest cog in the back (bypassing the derailleur completely) and add one inch of chain (two links).

If you use Shimano brand chains, USE the replacement pins EVERY time you "break" your chain. If you don't, you void the warranty and weaken the links. I use SRAM chains on my mountain bikes because they do not require a chain breaker do to the power link. It takes some practice to master removing the link but it can be done. I've had a lot of luck with the SRAM chains and the guys at mountain bike magazine like them a lot.

Another thing to consider is that a lot of cyclist tend to cross gears (big ring in the front and back) when riding. This is not good for your whole drive terrain. You should a void doing this to prevent premature stretching and it will increase the life of your chain, cassette, and chain rings. So, shift into your lowers gears and stop mashing on your parts! Hope this info helps

 

[Certified Drunk]

Chains are cheep, buy a new. Fix your old and use it as a spare.

 

[oldfart]

Carbon: That method for determining chain length is for closer ratio road bikes. For wide ratio mountainbike you place the chain on the big ring and biggest sized cog but not through the derailleur. wrap it tight then add 2 links.

If the chain was damaged when it broke, replace it. ie if you jammed the chain and it was bent then broke. If it broke for no reason replace it because it will probably break again. If it broke because its worn out, replace it because its worn and will break again. But you might have to replace the cassette and maybe a ring or two if the drivetrain is worn enough. A new chain may not mesh sufficiently with old cogs and rings and might skip under power which can hurt. I have the scars to prove it too.

 

[Carbon Fetish]

Oldfart,
Thanks for catching that mistake. I was pretty tired when I wrote that (a 3 and half hour ride will do that do ya).