[jingledell]

Hey there,

Someone walked into my garage on Sunday and grabbed my 2001 Bullit - quite a bummer. The upside, is that I have insurance and will be getting replacement value for the bike. I have my eye on a VP-Free since I pretty much had been using my Bullit for all-around xc and dh use anyway. Being out of the component loop for a while now, I have a few questions:

1. Everyone I know is having problems with the 888 yet the LBS says the 888 is the way to go - is it? I do xc, small drops and jumps, and hit the ski park (Northstar) a few times a season. Are there any better alternatives to the 888?

2. If I want to keep this bike as light as possible, yet somewhat durable (I weigh 175lbs) what would be the best choices for:
- wheelset?
- crankset (prob going with a double)?
- tire/tube setup?
- bars and post - would you put CF on a free-ride bike?

3. What is the advantage of getting a complete bike from SC as opposed to just having my LBS or myself build it up?

4. And finally, what would be the best way to get the cheapest deal on this ride? Should I get quotes from all the dealers in the area? Or should I not worry too much about price and stick with the local dealer in case of a problem with the bike?

Thanks for your replies! I know these are sort of broad questions but I appreciate any input you may have to offer.

 

[Tarpon]

Too bad about the Bullit.

Take a look at the Sherman Slider, it should do everything you describe (and then some) and is about a pound lighter than the 888. You could keep the weight down by building a frame up yourself but it would cost more.

 

[Kornphlake]

1: You probablly don't need an 888, maybe a boxxer or a used super T would fit the bill better or as mentioned a slider +

2: wheelset= rhynoliteXL + whatever hubs you like (personally I like XT and Marzocchi hubs)
Cranks=FSA v-drive extreem (cheap) or Truvativ hozfeller (less cheap)
Tires=whatever all your friends are using, this is really something that's hard to reccomend without knowing everything about where, how and what you ride
Bars=Easton EA70
Post=whatever you want, seriously it's just a seat post, if you're doing really gnarly stuff you're standing, if you're sitting you should really be more concerned about how comfortable the saddle is than what the post is like. I'd stick with AL stuff because of price.

3: Buying a bike spec'd by SC will get you a better value but you may end up wanting to change certain things like pedals, grips, shifters, brakes which in the end may end up costing you more. Search for the components on the SC spec and decide if you can live with them, if you have really picky tastes then save the hassle of having to sell parts and build it yourself.

4: There's really no way to get a good deal other than to wait until the end of the season and wait for the dealers to mark down the bikes. Mail order will be significantly cheaper for some components but generally for complete bikes it's about the same with shipping figured in. Buying used components can be a really good deal if you trust the people you're buying from.

 

[dan-o]

remember you're limited to 150x12 rear hubs. SC sells WTB or Hadley with the frames. I'm running a Hugi FR that has been great.

 

[OGRipper]

On the fork, ask yourself if you want 8" of travel or if 7" will be enough. If you really intend to do xc (including technical climbing), I suggest that you stick with 7". In that case, the 888 is tall, expensive, and a bit heavier than other forks out there. I'd check out the slider plus, the spv will help quite a bit when you actually need to pedal uphill and in the rolling stuff, and will be more balanced with a 5th Element or other platform shock in the rear. Honestly though, if you really plan to do xc AND ride Northstar now and then, you're asking for a lot from one fork, and maybe you should consider waiting for an '05 Rockshox with u-turn adjustable travel.

As for the components and pricing, I agree with what the other posts said, and hey, if insurance is paying who cares? Also, if you're not a very capable wrench, stick by your LBS, you will need help getting the bike dialed and will inevitably need service for one reason or another in the future.

I wouldn't ride a carbon bar on my free but that's just me, many tech heads tell me carbon is stronger than aluminum. I'm damaged from seeing too many early carbon parts fail from quality control issues but the standards have gone way up, and aluminum components break too.

 

[profro]

I would even look at a 6" SC fork instead of a 7 or 8" DC. Just no need. The damping systems on forks today are pretty darned good and a good quality 6" is better than it used to be. Plus heavy duty DC forks like the 888 are used more for racing or trails with more down than up with little XC riding.

 

[Renegade]

Just my opinion, which you've asked for, is to pick up an '04 super T. A great all around fork that are now selling for less than $600 at various internet sources like this one; http://www.beyondbikes.com/bb/ba/asp/Cc.FK-MAR/ab/Items.asp?absPage=2

edit: To qualify my opinion; I have an '04 superT on my ASX. I use this frame/fork combo as an all around bike. I XC ride it, and go to the resorts with it as well. I slide the legs up in the crowns for a steeper head angle for xc riding, and slide them down for dh. The feel and bottoming resistance are quite tuneable via oil level. The fork can take abuse. It's a shame that marzocchi is discontinuing it, yet keeping the almost worthless [in my opinion] jr.T.