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Bullshit or Innovation?
- Thread starter dan-o
- Start date
ftfy
"hey guys i'm running late, gotta bleed my frame and swingarm"
I really hate how terrible my rebound damping is when I forget to bleed my swingarm before a ride, reminds me of my old Avid's and my new shimano brakes 
New thread trend for 2016 in RM: "Help with a leaky swingarm"I really hate how terrible my rebound damping is when I forget to bleed my swingarm before a ride, reminds me of my old Avid's and my new shimano brakes
I use proTaper grip glue on my non-lockon Ourys now that I've switched away from lock-ons.
Good point. Have a close friend who lost his spleen in a dirt jump crash where his handlebar stabbed him. This probably would have killed him lol...
so... to solve the issue of an untrustworthy bolt on interface, you use a bolt on inteface?
If this sells, I'm going to start manufacturing custom, carbon zip-ties. Oh yeah dentist zip-ties with a price to match. Gonna be rich !
How is that not going to cut through the end of the grip in the first crash and possibly impale the rider? Also, I haven't had a problem with grips twisting in 20 years since I learnt to either install them properly or run lock-ons.
This is actually one of those few products that doesn't solve anything and actually makes stuff worse.
This is actually one of those few products that doesn't solve anything and actually makes stuff worse.
same here on switching to the ESI foam grips , very comfy on the hands when compared to Lock-on grips , i get less hand cramps on long decents and less hand numbness on long climbs
If they really want then to stay on clearly the answer is to make it a TORX-shaped interface.
mx bikes don't seem to need such tech (not to mention lock-ons), yet our wee bicycles do? i shake my head.
and 'pad-loc'? you go, marketing dept. give yourself a high five.
and 'pad-loc'? you go, marketing dept. give yourself a high five.
When ODI Lock Ons first came out a lot of my friends had problems with them coming loose. I asked them if they read the directions and of course no one had.
It's real simple, cinch down the inbound side first. Then with the grip being rotated backwards like twisting the throttle you tighten the outbound side. Easy peasy.
It's real simple, cinch down the inbound side first. Then with the grip being rotated backwards like twisting the throttle you tighten the outbound side. Easy peasy.
Split clamps on levers have been standard on MX bikes for quite a while.
I still don't have a split clamp on my 2014 Zee shifter.
Forgot to add that I fly with my bikes at least 4 times a year, which is why split clamps or lock-ons are needed.
Reach-arounds. That's what mtb marketing departments use within themselves. FYI. You heard it here first.
Well, just because it's been their approach for a decade doesn't mean it works. Do you know anybody that runs WTB tires? Me neither.
WTB Vigilante is a pretty good front tire.
WTB brand Hans Damph.
I'll admit it, I used to run WTB Velociraptors, thought they kicked ass. Then I tried Weirwolfs because Mark Weir, they put the velociraptorsto shame, then some time later I strted using real tires, the rest, as they say, is history.
Fixed
Actually, you're quite wrong. I only recently saw the first Jurassic park, I chose velociraptors because I was a total noob and the tread was similar to the Continental Atlantas that came on my Super V, which I thought were good because they were the only MTB tires I'd ever ridden. The continentals were too expensive, so I bought the WTBs, and thought they also kicked ass because again, I was the noobiest noob who ever noobed, and by my retarded logic they were like a sand paddle in the back and the arrow shaped tread up front kept me going to right direction. I have since learned that arrow shaped tread generally leads to traveling in all directions except the one they're pointed in.
When I become president, one of my first executive orders will be that all beginner mountain bikes be equipped with good tires.
When I become president, one of my first executive orders will be that all beginner mountain bikes be equipped with good tires.
I'm on Vigilante FR and love them. My only other repeat tire were Dissent's, missed them, went Maxxis and regreted it. Vigilante have the same predictable bite on the shoulder and transition great. If Hans Dampf do this too then ---
Dissent style Schwalbe
Dissent style Schwalbe
The dissents aren't too bad in the right dirt. Once you start sliding around though.......definitely schwalbey
Which makes sense because you can tell they literally sat around one day and said "people buy those, we need something that looks like that"
I'd run 'em backwards though
Which makes sense because you can tell they literally sat around one day and said "people buy those, we need something that looks like that"
I'd run 'em backwards though
Well I bought them because of the name. They were so F-ing horrible, but I didn't care or know back then.
Before that, my "ultimate' tires were the grey Specialized Umma Gummas.
Different product but same question:
http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/08/29/eb15-brake-force-one-h2o-disc-brake-trade-mineral-oil-for-water/#more-109120
http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/08/29/eb15-brake-force-one-h2o-disc-brake-trade-mineral-oil-for-water/#more-109120
The germans made it, it's got to be simple and effective, right?
I bet it works, unless A) you don't ride exactly like they do or B) you ride your bike outside of a sterile laboratory. I'd stick with oil for its lubricating and protective properties for the internals of your brake system. Regardless of boiling point and all that, I can't see the logic in using water outside of "because we can".
can we please talk about this?
http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/08/29/eb15-brake-force-one-h2o-disc-brake-trade-mineral-oil-for-water/
http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/08/29/eb15-brake-force-one-h2o-disc-brake-trade-mineral-oil-for-water/
Since H2O is one of the most common molecular element structures, these will only become hyper-über-whore bath expensive demanding the most pure of metals. Plus any contamination entering the system will likely swell and clog the circuit, as opposed to oil being able to isolate any loose sediment.
One DH run (as they claim) to test boiling-points does little to sway me.
One DH run (as they claim) to test boiling-points does little to sway me.
20% freezes at 18-20 degrees F. Although my xtr works a little slower at -15F, along with my DOT avid, at least they still work.
In Alaska this would be about as dumb as bringing an uninsulated camelback full of water on a winter ride.
I don't try to ride in -15 much, definitely about my physical limit, but this just doesn't seem grounded in reality. Plus, not that far fetched to start a ride at 20F and at the bottom be 60.
In Alaska this would be about as dumb as bringing an uninsulated camelback full of water on a winter ride.
I don't try to ride in -15 much, definitely about my physical limit, but this just doesn't seem grounded in reality. Plus, not that far fetched to start a ride at 20F and at the bottom be 60.
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I just thought of another plus:
If you get stranded, you can cut open your lines and drink that water, not much but everything counts.Try doing that with mineral oil or brake fluid.
If you get stranded, you can cut open your lines and drink that water, not much but everything counts.Try doing that with mineral oil or brake fluid.