This thread make me think of The Canadian’s Trance, and how he just knew not to force the bearings himself...even though he is a pro-level Beemer mechanic.
Like... the 26th-ish? Because that would be lovely. I've never had the Brisket of the Tribe.Texas style, or Jewish style?
They are both amazing.
Hmmn, maybe I’ll make a kosher one next weekend...
Yeah same... and then how the mechanic fucked it up even knowing how it should come out and using the actual proper tool. And then how the mechanic took personal responsibility for that, and the shop got him a new link.This thread make me think of The Canadian’s Trance, and how he just knew not to force the bearings himself...even though he is a pro-level Beemer mechanic.
As soon as it's back together I'll take whatever I can get for it so you're the highest bidder right nowI'll give you tree-fiddy for it.
What's your beef? And is its paint flaking?Great, now I'm hungry for brisket.
I'm just hoping that @rideit cooks me up some Yummy Thews when I'm up in Jackson next weekend.What's your beef? And is its paint flaking?
One for the moneyI'm just hoping that @rideit cooks me up some Yummy Thews when I'm up in Jackson next weekend.
And here all this time I was under the impression he had in fact tried it now when clearly he had not.TRY IT NOW?
I think he's actually referring to this...regardless of what any diagram says or doesn't say, how could you be so stupid as to look at this and think the bearings press in from the same side? your ignorance is some truly next level shit...
Not the correct part budregardless of what any diagram says or doesn't say, how could you be so stupid as to look at this and think the bearings press in from the same side? your ignorance is some truly next level shit...
he hasn't threatened to sue anybody yet!The real question: Will this thread get to be longer than the OG Nemesis Project/Bradford Hodges thread?
Not the correct part bud
No such info given and no way to measure it without removal. I made an incorrect assumption from the drawings that there was a lip preventing hardware from going out through the inside of the SS. I don't think this is unfair to assume based on the drawingView attachment 156755
Part 27, the "Distance Spacer"...does that nest between the bearings, with an OD less than the web ID on the frame?
Yup.... Like I said before, it's tricky the first time around. To his point, the diagram is not very helpful at all.View attachment 156755
Part 27, the "Distance Spacer"...does that nest between the bearings, with an OD less than the web ID on the frame?
reason #687731 why exploded diagrams alone aren't suitable for assemblyNo such info given and no way to measure it without removal. I made an incorrect assumption from the drawings that there was a lip preventing hardware from going out through the inside of the SS. I don't think this is unfair to assume based on the drawing
Only place I have to work on the bike at the moment. (Working outside is not an option right now)Two observations;
1) who works on their bike over top of light colour carpet?
2) i don't see any beer involved. usually a bearing job only works if you have one per pivot. Knolly owners, do in fact have a problem.
I seriously do not understand how this keeps coming up. These diagrams are perfectly fine for bearing removal IF they are done properlyreason #687731 why exploded diagrams alone aren't suitable for assembly
Sure they are, if they are done right.reason #687731 why exploded diagrams alone aren't suitable for assembly
i seriously don't understand why you posted this on every bike forum you could find (i've now seen it on at least 4). people are either already aware YT has issues, or don't care.Only place I have to work on the bike at the moment. (Working outside is not an option right now)
I seriously do not understand how this keeps coming up. These diagrams are perfectly fine for bearing removal IF they are done properly
for very simple assemblies, sure.Sure they are, if they are done right.
and yet OP still had issuesBruh....this is simple.
my bad, i thought that was the seatstay.Not the correct part bud
Because the drawing is wrong....what part of this are you missingand yet OP still had issues
Because he assumed the simple assembly was drawn correctly? Fair assumption.and yet OP still had issues
now i'm really confused, that certainly isn't the seatstay...View attachment 156754 and these came out this side no problem
That was in response to people saying double bearings always come out from opposite sides. These came out the same sidenow i'm really confused, this certainly isn't the seatstay...
i just don't care. i'm only here to make sure you become an alcoholic like the rest of usBecause the drawing is wrong....what part of this are you missing
who needs an assembly drawing to remove a bearing?Because he assumed the simple assembly was drawn correctly? Fair assumption.
That is the lower pivot in the front triangle. I think he was just showing that to show how two bearings being pressed in or out from the same side wasn't unexpected.now i'm really confused, this certainly isn't the seatstay...
to be fair it may have been one of those things where they used the CAD software's autogenerated exploded diagram. which is the kind of lazy thing i'd do if i worked in the bike industry.All they needed to do was move one bearing and cap to the inside of the chain stay and show the exploded line going in as such. Extremely simple change to make it correct.
Look at it this way:who needs an assembly drawing to remove a bearing?
That's what I was thinking. Either eliminate the web and use a spacer, or eliminate the spacer and use the web for locating. I can't see why both are necessary, seems odd.Furthermore, if you think about it, makes it more confusing as that distance spacer does nothing as the bearings seat up against the inner lip from both sides. I still have no idea what that spacer is really for.