Just trying to use murica's antiquated freedum units.
Buyer beware YT customer service
- Thread starter rokcore
- Start date
I mean....
No, but for real, do you still buy hammers spec'd in ozs/lbs? I'm curious.
And before anyone says it, the CF and the AL have the same info
pfffft.He is far and above not the person contributing the least to this thread. I, for one, am insulted to not even get a mention.
I thanks the @FSM we have the triumvirate of thread mentions: root beer, trying it nao, and GG. The Unholy Trinity, if you will.
Yes, I'd prefer a tiny, small, large, and wtf are you doing size scheme
Have you considered...
that's the problem, you downloaded it on top of the already existing technical information and things got mistranslated when they were overwritten
Seems legit. I should have gotten my coloring book and done it in crayon instead
clearly the russian bots inhabiting your computer manipulated the diagram.
Careful now... @rokcore might be insulted that you're inferring he used the wrong tool. Clearly that tool is made for removing bearings from a Specialized swingarm, not one where the bearing is either pressed in or pulled out. Do try and keep up.
I go by hammer, big fucking hammer, bigger fucking hammer
bigger fucking hammer is the answer to most problems.
bill gates injected it with a 5g nanobot
No, no, no. @jstuhlman has it right... an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel is the answer to most problems. I mean, with the notable exception of the press fit bearing thing, obviously.
the part of the diagram you are referencing (if you take it literal) says that the entire assembly goes in from the outside of the chainstay, yet you were able to realize that that clearly isn't the case, so you just thought they all went into the seatstay instead? dummy...
Man's first tool wasn't the angle grinder. All tools depend on the hammer's existence. You can make tools with little more than a hammer and fire.
It WOULD have been more helpful had they told me a cutting wheel or an oxy torch. They don't have to make a drawing for that
build a kiln, melt it down
Fair. Oversight on my part since it seemed accurate at the time with the exception of them being too lazy to break the drawing apart further. Again, no reason to question anything but the decision to not have the drawing separated more at that point
Well, it IS just weak loc-tite...
That diagram might reflect a previous version of the assembly. Might be a case where they made running production changes and never updated the diagram.
Doesn't exactly help you, but it's a plausible scenario.
I actually not know. My dad gave me an Eastwing 25 years ago and I have no clue what weight it is. I think it might be in ounces...?
Are you a *pugilist*, good sir??
This just needed to be quoted. For... posterity or something.
I'm kinda hungry for bone marrow.
I've seen you post this bit right here more than once, with regards to various actions you took during this process. But in your original post, you state...
So it "got a little tough" ? And then what? The Park tool just up and exploded? My common fucking sense tells me you're understating this a bit here, sport. But since I have no idea how the tool broke, or what kind of force you were putting on it, or anything other than what you've written in your first post... feel free to enlighten me. Regardless, the fact that the bearing tool wasn't working to get the bearing out was maybe a pretty big fucking reason to hit the pause button, hombre. But no, you had to press on with the... errr, pulling out of the bearing that, uhhh... is pressfit. Into the frame. Oh but wait... the diagram told you it was fine! How quickly I forget these things.
Your continued insistence that an incorrect drawing is directly responsible for you munging your tool (heh heh) is IMNSHO laughable at best. And your further expectation that "without a replacement frame" you "don't see this issue being resolved" seems pretty far-fetched given what I know. As such, I still don't have a lot of clarity around what you think you'll gain from registering for, starting complaint threads in, and continuing to engage in those threads on *checks notes* at least four mountain bike forums. Oh I know, I know... you just want to help. Maybe someone else won't make the same mistake you did. Blah, blah, blah. I still call bullshit. If you truly wanted to be helpful, you would have taken a much different tack than you did.
But here we are, and you haven't wavered course despite so many giving you feedback that might spur another, lesser man to reexamine their approach. So again... kudos to you, champion. For continuing to so bravely commit yourself to the unique and unpopular direction you've taken here. I hope you find the validation you seek.
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The shop I worked in sold tools just for that purpose. We wanted you to fuck up your bike and bring it back to us. Moar monies...
i'm mostly surprised that you were able to get the back of the pivot bolt to come thru all the bearings and stays to come thru the front like the diagram shows to even keep you thinking that was the way to disassemble it in the first place..
Was that shop in Asheville?
^This, no doubt it's a shit exploded view, but at least it's so thoroughly shitty that it alerts you of it's shiftiness.
Rule #1, 2 and 7 of bearing service are "Have a look before applying more force". I don't see how it's even possible to pull the first bearing, and then apply so much force to the second that you break the tool. Same size bearings in the same bore, a drastic increase in force is a huge red flag.
I'd even go out on a limb and wager that if he'd have just been cool with YT and said "Hey bud, I got confused by your diagram and think I fucked up my chain-stay, how do I get a replacement?" they'd have just sent him one. That's assuming they had one, which they probably don't, because it's YT and 3 minutes of Google would have told him that they suck at handling warranty replacements long before he ordered one.
I still think you should have to pass a background check in order to buy tools. God help the GG CS guys when he tries to change his headset offset, only flips one cup around and ends up sticking the fork through crooked and torqueing it down with an impact gun because the bearings won't seat.
Dunno, but that Tantrum guy seems to have replicated.
Most of the better quality, mass produced hammers are European in origin and are marked in grams.
Depends, I think, on hammers to what end.
Nah, Greensboro in 1994.