buying a new vehicle
- Thread starter maddog17
- Start date
I have done more or less that a whole day in Iceland so much fun. So happy the other guy in the car did not want to drive.
but those actually look like they have a little travel.....little is better than none.Don't need it where they're going:
Latecomer to the thread--the trusty '02 Subaru (H6) is having that pesky head gasket issue. Hubby is the mechanic, but has no time for this jobs with the rest of the cars/bikes/deck/bathroom/etc. that need work. We can have someone replace the whole engine for about $4k, with the potential issues it may come with, and the possibility of the tranny needing to be replaced at some point. So the question would be, lease/purchase a new car (increasing debt by $25-35k), or make $4k-10k in repairs. We just paid off all of our credit card debt, and the repairs would go there. I personally see this as a no-brainer (just keep the Ru going for a while longer), but alas, there is a debate. Whaddya think?
Just the tip?!
Last I checked one can replace a head gasket without replacing the engine as a whole...
Also this. Replacing the head gasket on a 2.0L should be about ~$1000. The tranny will be more, but is it the tranny or clutch?Last I checked one can replace a head gasket without replacing the engine as a whole...
Yes, but engine has almost 300,000 miles, so the mechanic says to replace it all....Last I checked one can replace a head gasket without replacing the engine as a whole...
Yes, but Buffalo says... and I listen... when he is talking about cars anyway...
, and it is an automatic. It goes "clunk!" sometimes when I start from a stop, or accelerate hard. It could just be that I'm a terrible driver since Buffalo can't replicate the issue, that wouldn't surprise me, but it would please me to not have to worry about it!!! 
3rd the head gasket repair. Find a shop that does a lot of them. We had our '97 repaired when it was at ~140K miles. It was about $1500 IIRC and that included them throwing in a new clutch while they had the motor out.
Let me guess - yours has an automatic?
Holy moly - 300K miles on the vehicle kinda changes the equation a bit. Has it had much suspension work done? Exhaust? CV joints?
They want to much for it. And won't budge. Just on principle I cannot make a deal if the other party is unwilling to understand that.You should definitely buy it.
I might change my position here as well. At 300k, you should have replaced everything by now. I would almost say buy a later model outback/legacy wagon (2006-20010) and move on. You can pick one up with <75k for about $15k. Going through a dealer, you should be able to get a sub-2% rate and can probably refi it for less at a credit union.
Well... maybe a little? Buffalo knows all, he did all the work (he is a mechanic by trade, and a very good one). I know he fixed a squeak that sounded like some hard rep on an old mattress and it used to pull to the right pretty bad after I hit that curb at mach 20...
If we DO get a new vehicle, he is leaning towards a Beemer. Mainly because he's a mechanic for BMW and might be able to get a deal on either leasing or buying a newer car or trade in. He also has allllll the tools for those cars, which is useful when making repairs. Now. I like the idea of getting to drive a sexy car like that, but I dislike the idea of the debt.
Understandable. However the only Subie specific tool you need is none. You would just need an OBD-II reader. Every other tool for my Subies came from Sears. They are stupid easy to work on too.
Never EVER buy a car you couldn't pay cash for. Finance rates are (were?) pretty retardedly low, so it may make sense to finance... but don't base the decision on how much to spend on a car on financing.
I guess since he's a mechanic that might make sense.or you could get a diesel 4wd sprinter. now that they're available in the US and all
Just be sure to budget for a head gasket repair when you buy one.
We bought Wifey's Forester with a loan because the rate is 1.09%. It's cheaper for me to pay that, and make money with the principle.
That being said, SS is right. If you don't have the cash (or at least most of it) available, don't buy it. If you have the cash and the rates are low enough, just take the loan and keep the cash as reserve.
at least he'll (hopefully) be able to macguyver it back into running condition when it inevitably breaks down in the backcountryI guess since he's a mechanic that might make sense.
Totes! Whitey could use a companion!! That big bad boy looks so lonely without a Sprinter... plus we could use another room for the kid and dogs!!or you could get a diesel 4wd sprinter. now that they're available in the US and all
Yes, this is where my main concern is. We JUST paid off an atrocious amount of debt and I do NOT want to do anything that would put us back in that position. The priority is to live cheap, pay shit off, and play. If we can get the Ru to run... that would be ideal. He took it to the shop today, fingers crossssed!
Debt sucks. The last time I carried any non-mortgage/auto debt was 1999 when the wifee and I spent the summer in Europe. Hell - the last time I carried auto debt was 200...4-ish?
Debt-free rules.
I don't count that since it was only for the rebate on price.
Post credit cards and paying off the Ru we still have mortgage, student loans, and a full equity line. Enough! I say Enough!
Dear god, I have met the enemy and they are the CA DMV. If you every buy out of state, get it registered in the purchasing state then bring it to your home state and register it there. It's not nearly the pain in the arse of Buying it, bringing it in with title, Bill of sale, smog cert but not purchase state registration. two hours of inspections and paperwork $4400 in fees and sales tax and we got the plates with the caviat that the auditor will probably kick it back on title details and it will be up to us to iron it out with the Texas Auto Dealer that sold it to us. If kicked back our plates get voided, but they keep the money while we deal with the other party. so much fun
ftfy
Hassles aside, we will still be paying $10,000 under what they wanted for similar vehicles here in CA
Dealers push for a lot of laws like that to protect the "dealer network". It used to be good a long time ago, to ensure that you would have a place you could take your car that was within a reasonable distance, but it's gone bat-crazy in some places with small towns that have no business having dealerships and multiple dealerships in bigger towns that are just redundant, subsidized by the price you pay for the car. That's one reason they are so afraid of Tesla. They want to make it a total PITA to go through a dealer in another state.
Although I just bought a brand brand new car, if the local price isn't agreeable go private party and buy a barely-used vehicle, you save more than just the depreciation, there's usually all the BS involved with window tint, clear armor, accessories, other stupid fees and costs, etc.
Although I just bought a brand brand new car, if the local price isn't agreeable go private party and buy a barely-used vehicle, you save more than just the depreciation, there's usually all the BS involved with window tint, clear armor, accessories, other stupid fees and costs, etc.
ahem...wagon content: http://blipshift.com/products/smoking-permitted-ii
For the dentists among us.
eric had it right...california is the worst.