Specialized doesn't need you any more
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-ride-2019-specialized-stumpjumper.html
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-ride-2019-specialized-stumpjumper.html
Also, no more proprietary shock mount.Looks good. They finally acknowledged that pressfit sucks ass, and are going threaded. I'm not sure what threaded tech has changed, but glad they listened to everybody telling them pressfit was the fucking worst.
Funny you should point that out. a day after I read this:Looks good. They finally acknowledged that pressfit sucks ass, and are going threaded. I'm not sure what threaded tech has changed, but glad they listened to everybody telling them pressfit was the fucking worst.
sourceRyan Palmer said:So why on earth do companies continue to produce bikes with non-threaded bottom brackets? Because, carbon. You can't cut 24tpi threads into the type of carbon that frames are made out of, so putting a threaded bottom bracket shell onto a carbon frame requires glueing a large aluminum part into the frame--which requires two different materials to be bonded--which isn't ideal. ... Engineers can create better carbon bike frames if they don't need to design around big aluminum parts being bonded into high-stress areas. It's sort of like the only analog thing left in a digital world. That's why press-fit hasn't gone away--it's actually why it shouldn't. Think about it this way: without threadless headsets there'd be no carbon steerer tubes. It's called progress.
But I really like potentially ruining a perfectly good set of BB cups when I need to move them to another frame.I'd suggest that the person who is right is the one who comes up with the best solution for installing a bottom bracket that can last a significant amount of time without coming loose, creaking, and generally creating problems. A bike is the sum of its parts, and if you improve one area (frame strength/stiffness/weight) at a significant cost to another area, you can simultaneously make a better frame and a worse bike.
People have been building carbon bikes with threaded BB's for a long time. Bonding a threaded aluminum sleeve to a carbon frame isn't something new, difficult, or even cost prohibitive. It worked quite well in the past, and continues to work well.
But I really like potentially ruining a perfectly good set of BB cups when I need to move them to another frame.
Buddy just got a new high end specialized-something-or-other XC FS bike to race for the upcoming season. I feel bad for him. Any company that specs Next cranks on BB92 should be openly chastised.FUCK Specialized.
There. I said it.
that's all fine and dandy now, but seems to neglect the fact that press fit started taking over long before the industry's carbon fetish went full steam ahead.Funny you should point that out. a day after I read this:
source
I wonder who is right?! Personally, I think Specialized is big enough to influence the rest of the industry. It's not because something is hard to do that it shouldn't be done. Hats off to Spesh for doing this.
The only threaded AL sleeve in a carbon bike that I broke was in a Specialized. Just saying...
So I can fit all my 200x57mm and 216x63mm shocks, right? Coz these are standard metric shocks in The Metric Paradise of the EU.https://www.pinkbike.com/news/the-differences-between-the-three-new-specialized-stumpjumpers.html said:(...) with a new shock linkage and compatibility with standard metric shocks.
Rough! I haven't seen a ton of broken sleeves with alu inserts, but it definitely happens. Just seems to be orders of magnitude less frequent than problems with pressfit BB's.The only threaded AL sleeve in a carbon bike that I broke was in a Specialized. Just saying...
As a sidenote, how many of these pressfit BB issues are related to the brand of the BB? After removing all the cases with a 30mm spindle which was plain silliness and all the cases where the frame dimensions were outside the tolerances for this type of BB.Just seems to be orders of magnitude less frequent than problems with pressfit BB's.
I've never used a press-fit BB, but I had exactly the same experience with threaded BBsMy race face BB with 24mm spindle lasted 50km while I have done more than 1000km on several Shimano BB also with 24mm spindle without issues.
Anecdotal data is irrelevant. My RF BBs have outlasted Shimano ones for the simple reason the latter chooses to use bearings with just THE OUTSIDE FACING FUCKING SIDE SEALED. And since I frequently face rainy/wet rides, water ends up killing them. RF has better bearings, and I'm able to replace them at home.As a sidenote, how many of these pressfit BB issues are related to the brand of the BB? After removing all the cases with a 30mm spindle which was plain silliness and all the cases where the frame dimensions were outside the tolerances for this type of BB.
My race face BB with 24mm spindle lasted 50km while I have done more than 1000km on several Shimano BB also with 24mm spindle without issues. It's my first time with race face and I don't want to jump to conclusions too fast
I wouldn't mind if you have a link to a tutorial or something showing how it goes and the dimensions of the bearingsRF has better bearings, and I'm able to replace them at home.
The bearings are 6805 2RS, pretty standard. To disassemble them you either take the BB off the bike and use a bearing puller or modify a steel towel rod/broom stick to make it like the Park Tool one:I wouldn't mind if you have a link to a tutorial or something showing how it goes and the dimensions of the bearings
Proper way to repack bearings is force grease through them to replace the grease that is contaminated with stuff that wears down the balls and races. No way I'd repack bearings without being able to do this. My bearings were going all crunchy anyway. Either my bearings were bad or my Next cranks are coming off the spindle. Equally likely.In 9.5 out of 10 cases, you can just repack the external RF bearings in situ, no need to pull them. One notable exception being a RF BSA BB cup with the bearing pressed inside out, having non removable seal on the outside.
You can wash the old grease off with isop.alc., let dry and pack fresh. Good enough for me, I am getting years from them when done frequently enough. Fuck pulling them out and pressing in every three weeks.Proper way to repack bearings is force grease through them to replace the grease that is contaminated with stuff that wears down the balls and races. No way I'd repack bearings without being able to do this. My bearings were going all crunchy anyway. Either my bearings were bad or my Next cranks are coming off the spindle. Equally likely.